TOPIC - cutting mediums
DATE - 20:05:06 3/15/99
FROM - Munty
Hi folks,
Just to add to my earlier post,my request for cutting medium
recommendations:please if anyone has recommendations what might be
a good,reliable,and perhaps "self sufficient" medium for a visually impaired
propagator please feel free to throw them into the mix :-)
Apologies for the off topic post
thanks
Munty
TOPIC - ot1
DATE - 16:37:57 3/15/99
FROM - pi
glad to hear your feeling better. sorry about not answering you. yes, sub's
troubles caused me much concern to say the least. i would never
purposefully 'blank' anyone out unless they were flaming me and you
certainly have been nothing but a gentleman in my eyes! not my style.
sorry for the wrong impression.
i will eme you tonite. note, i do not use PGP. thanks
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:41:35 3/15/99
FROM - oldtimer1
stonerg I assume you mean sphagnum peat? It has a Ph of 3.5 to 4.5
depending on its source. So some Ph correction is needed dolomite lime
is good for this it is hard to over do and it has some buffering effect.
Sphagnum peat has a waxy coating on it so it is hard to re wet if it ever
dries out so a good quality compost wetting agent is needed. It has virtually
no available nutrients so it is better used in a combination with moss
peat,
worm compost and any other things you want to add like perlite etc.
Hope this helps Ot1
TOPIC - cutting mediums
DATE - 10:25:42 3/15/99
FROM - Munty
Hi Vic,
I know this is off topic but I have a friend who is totally blind who wants
to
take cuttings of some of his trees and shrubs,especially he is keen on
taking cuttingds of the scented plants such as Caliandra & Sestrum
and
while we were discussing our weed failures/successes he asked whether
Rockwool would be suitable as water retention is an issue,being blind
plants tend to get neglected sometimes!
I was wondering if,with your background,you knew what a suitable medium
might be for taking cuttings of shrubs and small trees?
thanks
Munty
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:17:25 3/15/99
FROM - oldtimer1
pi Hi I dont know how long eggs can last but hibernating mites can last
8
months + in soil and any nook or cranny come to that. The reason folk get
reinfestation is not usually from eggs they are only laid on plants and
leaves. within a week or two of going to 12 hrs the mites that are born
change some accelerate there laying pattern the rest dont lay but build
up
their fat body then leave the plants and find places to hibernate. It can
be in
soil behind architrave skirting boards behind lining paper any where, they
are tricky little buggers. You are better of on clearing your grow area
to to
spray the whole growing environment twice 7 days apart with Avid. If you
do
it right and you take a few simple precautions like filtering or zapping
your
incoming air you should never have the problem again. Oh yes and if you
ever bring cuttings in complete 5 min immersion root ball and all in Avid
or
Torque will kill all forms of mite including eggs.
Still got a chest infection but feeling much better thanks for asking.
I did write to you about the BB and post elsewhere but you never replied
I
thought you were blanking me for some reason. But come to think about it
things were in the air at the time [just after xmass] drop me a line at
my old
hot mail acc.
All the best Ot1.
TOPIC - thanks for sharing
DATE - 09:43:09 3/15/99
FROM - stonerg
I've been making changes. But... what are the drawbacks to using lots of
spagnum? I have a high water pH, so it seemed like a good idea. But the
stuff looks so... unsoil-like? I'm gonna have to grind it up, even.
TOPIC - ot1
DATE - 09:13:25 3/15/99
FROM - pi
hey young man ... feeling better? hope so.
re: mites ... how long can the eggs remain dorment before hatching, i have
many eggs on my budding plants buti am not sure which ones have been
killed and which have not been killed. i am thinking that if an existing
egg
has not hatched whithin say 3-5 days then it is no longer of concern. if
this
is so, i would think that a spraying every 3-5 days over 2 weeks to a month
would kill the borg. Wishful thinking on my part?
can soil carry eggs and will eggs far below the surface die or can they
make it to the surface.
i am rotating between pyrethrin, a fogger with synthentic py and endoctin
(sp) a reproductive inhibator, and neem oil. when i spray with neem or
py, i
also try and spray / saturate the top layer of soil and the pot. is this
additional spraying a waste of time? any suggestions?
did you ever harvest those BB seeds you bred last fall?
TOPIC -
DATE - 08:22:56 3/15/99
FROM - Mota
Vic,
The Fig Skunk is an F2 Skunk #1, it gave a bigger yield than skunk #1 and
had a figgy/skunky smell and taste.
PAZ
TOPIC -
DATE - 02:39:20 3/15/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Vic, was the biological control you used to control sciarid flies called
``Hypoaspis''? This predator is now available here, from the blurb it seems
to also control a wide spectrum of other soil pests. Is it to good to be
true or
does it really work?
The spider mite season is coming.
A point of interest on predators as far as spider mites and their population
dynamics are concerned, don't bother with phytoseiulus persimilis for
growing cannabis indoors. We know phytoseiulus just dont work below 14
hrs of light a day. So even when the mum area has a resident population
of
the predators, that the clones that come from them will still have a few
2
spot mites on them along with a few predators. Once these clones are put
on to a 12/12 hr flowering, the predators go into diapause [go dormant
] and
the mites have the urge to multiply like anything to prepare for the coming
winter. Over one grow there will be several million mites in the grow area
probably not enough to web the plants and only cause moderate damage
to the plants [a little mottling of the leaves]. Most of the mites will
be
removed with the plants but several thousands will be left hibernating
on
the walls ceiling and floor. As soon as a new crop is put into the grow
room
the mites are right on to the crop especially if it is given a period of
veg first,
there will be webbing within a few weeks usually as the colas are starting
to fill out. This is the point when a lot of growers come to pages like
this
asking for help. There is nothing that can cure the problem at this stage
and putting more predators in is a complete waste of time and money. The
best bet is to pressure spray with with clean water every day this knocks
a
lot of mites off, and to try and keep the humidity up. All this does is
to slow
the mites down a bit until the crop can be harvested. Once this is done
the
mites should be completely eradicated from the entire indoor mum, clone
and grow area to stop the above becoming a cyclic problem. `There is no
organic compound that can do this at this point of time.' So I'm afraid
that a
quick course of chemicals are needed!! Once all your growing areas are
clean keep them that way!!
All the best Ot1.
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:37:54 3/14/99
FROM - Vic High
Philly - I agree with your comments in a big way. No one system is the
best
system for everyone. Besides, by having growers doing different methods
and sharing their successes AND failures, we all benefit.
Loop - salt ferts are the original chem ferts I believe. They are cheaper
and
not subject to the pH drifts associated with the pot grower's chem ferts.
Every time you adjust your pH you are throwing your NPK ratio out of wack,
so salt ferts allow you better control. They do require an understanding
of
the plant's nutrient needs and are not for beginners. (I think I sound
like OM,
haha)
Salt ferts are more associated with agriculture and therefore you buy them
from agricultural supply houses instead of hydroponic shops. I just like
the
idea of looking like a farmer and not a pot grower. But like Philly said,
go
with what works for you.
TOPIC - A reply: stonerg
DATE - 13:37:29 3/14/99
FROM - Philly
I would do what works for you. I like hydroponics, the hand water method.
I
use good 'ole Miracid during vegetative growth, 1/2 strength once per week
plus some epsom salt,and Bloom Booster from a specialty shop for
flowering. Which, is basically Miracle Grow, plus some magnesium. Gotta
avoid ammonium nitrate when flowering... I use these solutions to foliar
feed twice every day, alternating with plain water.
Everyone's garden situation is different, everyone's
habits and technique are different. You have to go with what works for
you.
There are meters that will allow you to measure your concentrations in
your
nutrient solutions, and in your soil/hydroponic medium.
It is best to keep in mind that N-P-K, Mg and Sulfer etc.., and the
micronutrients, are like our need for vitamins. Sugar, water, and light
are
protein, carbohydrate, and fat to a plant. The vitamins/nutrients are
important, and a deficiency will slow your growth, but they are much less
important than the main factors that the plant utilizes to produce growth.
Too many growers try to force the issue.
Outdoors, this may have an application, but it is poor form indoors.
Foliar feeding overcomes many problems, like soil lock.
And, helps you avoid overfertilizing. It also ups the humidity, an issue
for
most indoor growers where the atmosphere is usually too dry. It only takes
a minute or two
for a good spraying.
Just my opinion, do what works for you.
TOPIC -
DATE - 13:20:48 3/14/99
FROM - loop_
All- Pardon my ignorance, but what the big deal with salt ferts? I mean
are
not almost all quality hydro chems (GH and the knock offs) just salt ferts
already mixed?
stonerg- i use chems with an organic base with good results. I know that
kind of makes vic sick, but whatever rocks your boat.
rockwool has no buffering at all. Not the ideal choice if you want to be
lazy.
no water buffering either. If the rockwool dries out enough for the plants
to
wilt, they're dead!
TOPIC - long time no see!
DATE - 20:42:43 3/13/99
FROM - Vic High
t2, pi, mota, flwr smkr - thanx!
Eric - I apreciate any and all feedback, thanx.
Old Bud -Steve is hard to contact and isn't really interested in dealing
with
teh immaturity of the internet. His MJ life is very much underground since
a
very boneheaded article in High Times.
Budm - pollen collection - someone on the net (ncga?) suggested placing
the male plant on wax paper and placing a wax paper cone around the
plant to collect the pollen. It's easy to collect up the pollen with a
razor type
blade. Sometimes airflow and airpressures can be your biggest nightmare
or biggest asset. Maybe keep the male in your bathroom for the final few
days with the fan on constantly and the door closed? just a thought.
loop - don't know too much about the aircooled lights except that by being
able to place the lamps closer to the plants, you more than compensate
for
the approximate 10% loss in lumens. At least this is what I was told by
the
salesperson, haha.
Old Bud & stonerg - Stress and hermies are a fact of life around here,
they
seem to go hand it hand. I have yet to find a plant that I couldn't force
to
hermie. I think the problem is that the newer breeders are pampering their
plants too much and therefore am not able to spot the borderline herms
and therefore unable to select against them. I believe in survival of the
fittest
and am not shy about abusing my plants. This way, any slight herms can
be identified and deleted from the gene pool.
I've grown SOL's ST (sweet tooth) and RSB (rom strawberry blonde). I don't
recall getting any herms with these yet, but did get them with Seed Bank
of
Canada's super kush, kush special, and K2Ak47. The AK was 100%
hermie. The kushes were all female and about 40% hermie. I also had a
high female ratio with the homegrown fantaseed's ww/afghani cross and a
single hermie.
BTW - I just harvested the ST and RSB for the second time (sinse this
time:). Overall, the RSB were superior looks wise and aroma wise. One ST
did definately stand out over them all though. It was so sticky and resin
covered I didn't want to manicure it and waste the frosted leaves. It was
also one of the better yielders and early. It smells more like orange than
aeric's cali-o! Actually, aeric's cali-o smells more like sticky sweet
pink
grapefruit in my garden, haha. It outyielded all the ST and RSB and was
on
par with Romberry. A very fine plant indeed!
Mota - what's a fig skunk?
subcool - welcome stranger :)
Budm - I'll try to catch up on mail tommorow between garden chores. Got
half a day off Sunday and plan to process the last of the suprises, the
romulan strawberry blonde suprise.
Munty - sunshine, fissions, and promix are basically peat based potting
mediums. Sunshine #2 is basically same as #1 except that no nutes have
been added. You can buy them in 3.8 cu ft bales.
Old Bud - I'm very interested in Frenchie's salt fert recipe and techniques.
It's the same idea that we used when I worked in the forest nurseries.
With
regular flushings, it worked like clockwork. Any info, notes, observations,
etc
from you would be appreciated. Organics will always be my first choice,
but
if one had to go chemical, salt ferts would be my first choice.
first rate - This place isn't meant to be a popular hangout. That niche
has
been effectively filled by a couple other sites and would be a better place
for
you if you are looking for a fast paced read.
TOPIC -
DATE - 19:37:08 3/13/99
FROM - trelaway
I made a variation of the SSmix using expensive potting soil/worm castings
instead of sunshine mix/manure. Works fine but I used a little more perilite
to loosen it up.
TOPIC - Stonerg
DATE - 18:24:15 3/13/99
FROM - Budm
Hi Stonrg, Well i cant say much for the cost because afoaf never
considered anything but the SuperSoil recipe. afoaf found a brand of
castings from "Orcon" they are a/b 15$us for 2 gallons, and they are super
quality, they seem to have no foreign matter in them, and have the
consistancy of coffee. Any way the SSoil is being used over for the next
crops, so its cost effective, and at about 6 weeks on the last girls, all
ferts
stopped, just water and H2o2, so its real easy, and can even sustain, IMO
a
plant from veg to harvest, with no additional ferts if ya really wanted
to.
Post back if ya give it a try, and how it went ;-)
Peace
TOPIC - wassup stoners
DATE - 14:58:42 3/13/99
FROM - first rate
Just found this place. Pretty cool but pretty slow. Why dont more stoneres
post here?
Peace
TOPIC - salt ferts, hermies, and the like
DATE - 14:08:12 3/13/99
FROM - stonerg
Old Bud- I certainly did NOT mean throw in the towel on those babes. I
was
just expressing, well, whatever. Empathy; sharing my experience. And then
I
kept going as I am apt to do. I'm about to jump off and look at the Super
Soil
recipes -- went to an organic garden store yesterday and started
re-aquainting myself.
And I have a question. Philly, you may be right that I'm overfertilizing.
I'm
hate to admit it but I am a busy person. Organics buffer. Would organic
soil
amendments provide a good buffer if I continued to use my high-quality
hydroponic formulas? I'm thinking peat moss and such. The thing is, I don't
trust a lot of "organic" products out there. For some reason I feel my
hydro
products are purer and cleaner. I mean, the risk of contamination (general
contamination of any kind) seems lower this way than using say, liquid
bat
guano. An example: I was looking to buy worm castings, from this "organic"
place, and they said that their supplier's worms had all died on account
he
fed them treated lumber. This concerns me. I mean, they died this time
but
what the hell was this guy feeding them before. If they hadn't died, I
might
be growing a crop in cyanide-laden worm castings right now. Plus, I can't
afford the expensive liquid amendments.
So once again my question is what do people think about organic soil
amendments with hydroponic ferts. That is, will the amendments provide
adequate buffering? Or should I look at moving away from all synthetics?
Opinions?
P.S. Does rockwool have buffering qualities? Just curious; I know rockwool
is environmentally satanic.
TOPIC - Salt Ferts
DATE - 00:07:35 3/13/99
FROM - Old Bud
Thanks Stonerg,
but I'm not going to throw in the towel over one herm just yet. however
for
these seeds (10 Strawberry Blonde, 10 Musk Ox, 10 Shiskaberry) I'm going
to grow in 3 gallon pails with sunshine #4 and Frenchie's Salt Fert Reciepe.
I'm after 1 good mother from each and the buckets will be easy to move
around (out for the males).
Is anyone else using Frenchie's Salt Fert recepie?
TOPIC - Hey Flwr Smkr!
DATE - 21:55:49 3/12/99
FROM - Bill Clinton
Damn, we must have the same taste, what with us seeming to always be
growing the sam strains. I ya got a safe email addy, I'll send ya some
pics
of my buds. Very stinky plants, strong too.
TOPIC - Vic's Super Soil
DATE - 17:58:54 3/12/99
FROM - Munty
Hi All,
I have been itching to give the super soil a go but I don't know what the
make up of the "sunshine mix #2" or "promix" are
Iam pretty sure that there is no commercial soil mixes of that name in
this
neighbourhood!
Vic or anyone: can you break it down for me?
Is it basicly just a good potting mix?
Cheers
Stay safe
Munty
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:08:27 3/12/99
FROM - Budm
Hi all, Vic have you recieved my mail?
Stonerg , being new to the hobby, and being alike in personel selfsufecency
from buying smoke, its posts like yours that keep me from considering
hydro. I guess im just lazy at heart, and dont want the prolbems, I really
like
soil anyhow, I know it sounds corny, but working with the earth I think
has a
certain feel to it, that would be lost in the technolgy of Hydro, with
all of its
automation and valves and stuff. Keeping it simple is where Im at;-)I just
feel real lucky, to have found this page back when, and took Vics Super
Soil
recipe and 2-5 gal pots and had great sucesss with Romberry, "no reason
to reinvent the wheel"
Well thats my installment of ramblings, yall have a great weekend! ;-)
Peace
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:03:06 3/12/99
FROM - subcool
hey guys just a note to say hello.
I'm still reading but nothing to post.
miss you all , be safe
sub
TOPIC - just a hello
DATE - 13:58:28 3/12/99
FROM - subcool
Just a note to all my friends. I read alot but rarely post,but i miss you
guys.
ya'll be safe and i'll see ya around
Sub
TOPIC - Stonerg
DATE - 13:10:14 3/12/99
FROM - Philly
> Too many extremes?
Perhaps, overfertilization? Salt buildup is a common experience for
hydroponics, and there can be an excess of nitrogen that is short of
causing reverse osmosis.
An excess of fertilizer will cause hermies, and from what I read here and
there, many growers push their plants way too hard with the ferts. You
can
go up to 1400 ppm on N, but sticking around 400 ppm, and foliar feeding,
is
far safer.
Marijuana actually likes to go through a dry, then wet, cycle.
Organics will buffer the effects of excess ferts. Hydroponics requires
a
sensitive touch, and a willingness to underfertilize, and foliar feed for
safety.
If your plant's leaves are nice and perky, and the plants appear healthy,
I
would consider an excess of ferts. Barring just plain old hermie strains.
TOPIC - hermies
DATE - 11:28:19 3/12/99
FROM - stonerg
Old Bud, hermies have recently become the scourge of my existence. I've
decided that some seeds/strains are more likely to go hermie than other
but that in general, anything can go hermie. So I've decided neither extreme
in the hermie debate is right, I guess.
However, and the reason that I write (a lurker at heart) is that I've decided
(I'm too much of a small-timer to be scientific) that my hermie incidents
have increased signifigantly since going hydro. This could be due to
decreased attention and care on my part, but I believe it is something
more.
My plants often go from drained and dry to flowing river wet. I'm beginning,
in my more contemplative and empathatic moments, to believe I am
freaking out my plants in regard to water supply. Too many extremes?
So I'm going back home to hand-watered, potted plants. It's crazy how
much I'm looking forward to it. Should tell me something about my theory
as well.
I know that a good deal of the seed stock I have is just itching to go
hermie,
so I expect this next semi-organic crop to be telling. What do the experts
think? I am still wondering if it is totally my stock, and if I should
consider
repurchasing elsewhere. I'm in it for personals so its not a big deal,
but
then again I've never encountered a hermie that wasn't a big deal.
My personal philosophy is to expect anything. Once you find something you
like, understand the safest thing is to stick with it. Right now, I'm trying
to
find a 1 sativa mother and 1 indica mother. One big criteria is hermieness.
When I find what I'm looking for, I'll keep it for a long time. And when
I look
for something new, I'll a) find a diferent vendor (actually I know where
I'm
going next), and b)expect just about anything. In other words, I'll stock
up on
bud before I take a chance with a possible hermie again. Damn I hate
hermies. I also get the feeling there are just a bunch of half-assed
breeders out there who don't watch what they're doing. The reason I'm
drawn to this board is because I believe I'm listening to the other types
of
breeders - those who are preserving genetics for future generations. Of
course this means throwing away hermies and not selling them. Damn.
Now I'm getting a little worked up. But it frightens me that after years
of little
hermie trouble all of a sudden, when I for once actually purchase from
a
seedbank, I've got a hermie plague. Everybody rips on "bag seed" but my
NW bag weed provided me with better seeds. So there. Sorry to go off.
TOPIC - romberry
DATE - 06:18:48 3/11/99
FROM - flwr smkr
got my romberry rite after the restock of heavens stairway
a few weeks ago.all 10 germed in toweling in two days.
put into 5" peat pots with seed starter soil plus some other things.all
10 up
3 days later.
10 seeds=10 plants in 5 days.
thanks vic
be safe all
TOPIC - Worms
DATE - 12:43:07 3/10/99
FROM - Budm
Hi all, I read a book a/b worms at the local bookshop/coffeeshop, and two
very intresting things that I gleaned were, in a acre of farmland the average
amount of worms present, move 20 tons of earth a year!! And the casting
that the worm makes, has 10x the nutritive value as what it eats! Just
goes
to show-ya what goes in is not allways what comes out! IMO worms are
some great and amazing creatures.As the greek philosipher Aristotle said
"Worms are the intestines of the earth" Wow we have had our dose of
culture today LOL ;-)
Peace
PS Naughty are you lurking? Aks sats are looking great, very uniform, and
at
a/b 2 weeks flower, smell real spicy/incense like, email me if ya need
more
info.
TOPIC - Fig Widow
DATE - 13:19:07 3/09/99
FROM - Mota
Dan Kass,
My Fig Widow is a cross between a Fig Skunk female and a White Widow
male. It's a very good yielder, 8 oz. using a 430 HPS with a Lumenarc III
hood, CO2 and a 5 gallon General Hydro bucket.
PAZ
TOPIC - Fig Widow
DATE - 12:33:29 3/09/99
FROM - Dan Kass
First let me say...hello Vic, this is a very nice board you have here:)
Ok, nice pic Mota. My question is...what exactly makes up your Fig Widow,
(besides the widow that is)? She reminds me of a Widow X Russian I grew
outdoors this past year. Keep up the good work:)
Dan Kass
TOPIC - Fig Widow
DATE - 11:11:42 3/09/99
FROM - Mota
Everyone,
There is more info. to come, but I'm new to web page building. So as soon
as I get a chance I'll post the picture right before harvest.
PAZ
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:07:41 3/09/99
FROM - Mota
Vic and Soul,
As promised here is a picture of the Fig Widow at around 7 weeks. The web
site address is http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Gala/5375/
Link:
TOPIC -
DATE - 19:35:39 3/08/99
FROM - trelaway
Old Bud, I think it depends what you believe; whether herms are their own
breed or if they can be induced. Far as I can tell the book is still open
on
this issue.
TOPIC - Hermie's in the mist
DATE - 09:31:53 3/08/99
FROM - Old Bud
Checked my grow last night and found my first 'herm', I have to admit to
'pushing' the girls a little hard but still?
This has me concerned as I have $500 worth of Hybred beans sprouting
which most other growers report as being hermie sensitive ( shisk,
strawberry blonde etc). These seeds will veg in the attrium to find suitable
moms and should have a stress free life, like me!
Anyone with experience in hermie seeds?
Peace
TOPIC - switching bulbs
DATE - 09:16:51 3/08/99
FROM - bob fish
Hello Everyone:
Would it be practcal to alternate a 400w HPS with a 400w MH conversion
bulb to try to increase the potentcy of one's bud? Say for example running
with the MH for a day and HPS for the next.... or maybe the same idea on
a
weekly basis.
By the way it is a 3x3' area, SOG 1 to 2' clones in soil.
Thanx, you guys are the best!!
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:15:28 3/07/99
FROM - trelaway
oh yeah, I can make butter. Bonus.
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:14:19 3/07/99
FROM - trelaway
It never fails....the best one was male.
TOPIC -
DATE - 13:14:14 3/06/99
FROM - loop
Vic and all:
anyone actually using agri-cool water cooled jackets.
What kind of losses(light level wise) am i looking at? 10%, 20%? Is the
reduction of red spectrum more than made up for by the higher light levels?
Was thinking of adding 6' tanning bed lights for UV? Anyone have any
experiance? Comments?
thanks
TOPIC - OT1
DATE - 17:45:25 3/05/99
FROM - Budm
just send me a email to reply back to thanks ;-)
Peace
TOPIC - Budm
DATE - 16:50:35 3/05/99
FROM - oldtimer1
It could be oldtimer1, Oldtimer1 or old_timer_1 depending which addy you
mean! Been ill so still stuffed for time. Do you want me to drop you a
line.
All the best. Ot1
TOPIC - Eric thanks a bunch, great reply,,;-)
DATE - 15:53:32 3/05/99
FROM - Budm
Thats what my bro needed to hear ;-)
Peace
TOPIC - pollen
DATE - 14:35:17 3/05/99
FROM - Eric Carr
BUDM
cut off all branches except for two..better yet prune the plant of all
flowers
except for two sets..leave them so you can tye a clear plastic bag over
them
each and place in a corner of the area that the fan isnt blowing on. keep
an
eye on the bags and when you see the first pollen sack open ( you will
see
the pollen in the bag on the edges and on the other flowers) cut the
branchs off and stick them in a vase of plain water with the bags still
attached ( you will need to leave a hole so that air can get into the sack,
make sure there is no condinsation on the bags because you dont want
the poleen to get wet or hot) after a few more open you can take them out
of
the base and hang upside down as you would a drying bud, this will cause
the other flowers to open up and release the pollen into the bags...after
maybe 4-5 days you can collect the rest of the pollen by shaking the
branchs and then put it into a sealed container like a film can....you
can
take some paper towel and make a moister collector so your pollen will
not
get wet, just put some flour in a paper towel and fold it up . you can
just take
a couple of pinches of flower and add to the pollen without the paper
towel...it will not effect the pollen to be added directly to it.
TOPIC - Pollen Collection
DATE - 13:15:15 3/05/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, Well afoaf would like a hand, he has a very nice male that he wants
to collect pollen from, its been in the flower closet for 7 days and is
growing
male pollen sacs, he also has a veg closet but no male containment area,
what are some possiablites to collect pollen but keep his 6 girls safe
as
possiable. With no prior experiance its kinda tough. Is it possiable to
let the
male flowers get a bit bigger, and then place him back into the veg area,
and then cut off shoots and place in a glass of water to open and collect
ok? What would some other folks do in this situation? Thanks for any
advice;-)
Naughty The 2 AK satdoms are looking great at 12days of flowering, if there
is anything specific ya want to know, let me know.
OT1 I lost your addy, I remember the domain all I need is how your handle
is is it ot1?
Have a good weekend all ;-)
Peace
TOPIC - Spice o Life
DATE - 06:00:53 3/05/99
FROM - Old Bud
Started 10 seeds of each last nite, strawberry Blonde, Musk ox and
Shiskeberry. Can anyone tell me anything about the musk ox? The lable
says 8-10 weeks finish, musky not skunky.
Would it be possible to ask breeder Steve (e-mail) some questions?
Address?
Any help very much welcomed.
TOPIC - different stuff
DATE - 13:39:33 3/04/99
FROM - Eric Carr
VIC... i got your blueberry and romberry last week it was back ordered
from
richard waiting to be supplied, is this the new stock you are wanting to
see
the germ rates of??..if so i will let you know the rates in a couple of
days.
REMOVING LEAVES....Hawiian growers have been doing this forever, I first
heard of it from a grower that lives in hawaii, they take all the leaves
of their
plants the in the last two weeks of harvest, the idea is that with no leaves
to
take care of, the plant will send all water and nutrients to the buds to
insure
survival of the seeds and flowers. we have discussed this a few times,
and
we never have figured out why it would effect the potency of the flowers.
TOPIC - justice
DATE - 07:30:21 3/04/99
FROM - pi
i have had the same idea. make sure your clones are all gonna finish at
the same time or you could have issues.
TOPIC - Vic
DATE - 07:27:16 3/04/99
FROM - pi
Vic >>> try a dehumidifier in the room with your buds. got some buds from
sawtooth that were the stickiest that i had ever had but still wet. ater
a week
in a room with a dehumidifier, the buds crumbled without a problem. did
not mean for them to cure so fast but i learned something. hehehe
TOPIC - herb grinder
DATE - 22:08:13 3/03/99
FROM - t2
hey vic,
nice page ya got here. i sometimes use an herb grinder on buds.it seems
to work fairly well without crushing to many seeds
TOPIC - good evening
DATE - 21:26:58 3/03/99
FROM - Vic High
Budm - those previous comments of blueberry's deformities being
associated with colchicine was just one of two hypothesis. The second
explaination was that blueberry was just highly inbred. With what I've
learned since then, my current thoughts is that the inbreeding is the more
likely cause.
Colchicine is a chemical that delays cell division during a phase that
can
improve the chances of creating polyploids and possibly breaking linked
genes.
Justice - I know a grower in Van that uses the common bed method that
you mention. It seems to work well for him, he is my source for UBC1. It
makes watering a snap, just a soaker hose on a timer.
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:54:51 3/03/99
FROM - trelaway
budm-too add to the balance idea, it is all balance. If your plants have
more
lumens, they'll grow quicker providing all else is equal,
food-rootspace-co2-temp.
Watts per square foot is a bit of a misnomer. Lumens is a better guide.
For
example a 400whps puts out 20% more lumens than a 400wMH, so at one
foot from the tops the MH may be okay but the hps could solarize (overlight)
the top, mimicking a nut problem.
The other reason lumens is important is 'cause different lights have
different efficiencies. A 400w hps gives off, at best, about 50,000 lumens
while a 600 gives 80,000 ~ fifty percent power use increase gives 60%
more lumens.
my .02
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:28:50 3/03/99
FROM - loop_hole
Nl420-I started trimming the largest of leaves at about three weeks in.
With
the density I was using (3 per ft2) skiskes 10î leaves filled a canopy
pretty
full. I only removed the ones that seemed to be blocking a fair amount
of the
neighboring cola(s). Shisk seems to be a plant that can take a fair amount
of abuse without even slowing down (like some of my friends). The first
time I grew shisk with MH light only, it grew into a pure single cola plant
with
almost no side branches. This round I added another light (HPS) and they
branched out like mad. After the first week of veg I chopped off all of
the
longer bottom branches because the canopy was already full, and I didnít
feel they were contributing. After all the chopping was done, I looked
over
my garden, and the pile of branches on the floor, and thought I had made
a
big mistake. Damn plants didnít even slow down. Two weeks later (10 days
into flower) I gave them another trimming, and they seemed to actually
like
it. I tried to do a little leaf trimming on a NL x Hawaiian and that plant
doesnít like it at all. Go figure.
Budm- on the shishey crop I increased my light levels 50 % (from about
40
wft2 to 60 on a mover). When the buds formed I realized I trimmed a bit
more of the bottom branches than I had to. I donít grow in large containers
and only veg 2 weeks max so I canít help you there but with 80 wft2 you
should get some good penetration. Still, I rather have fewer larger buds
than a lot of smaller ones; itís just less work.
By increasing your light to that level, i think you could safely say that
light is
not your week link. I think the real art of growing is to always bring
up your
plants resources equally. A plant (anything actually) only does as well
as
itís weakest link. Aeroponics with florescents would be a waste IMHO. At
that level of light, assuming everything else is rocking (temp, circulation,
medium, nutes) co2, if you donít already have it, would be worthwhile.
Balance is the key.
BTW there is a book called ěhow to supercharge your gardenî that speaks
of plants resources very clearly.
Hope that helps
loop
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:40:01 3/03/99
FROM - justice
hey budman the drop in watts/square foot would make little difference if
you
aren't getting enough co2 to the girls, it is just as important as light
and
water, right? vic is using something like 20-30 watts/sf and is still kicking
ass in respect to yields.
on the matter of root/pot size, if one were to flower a room full of clones
all
at once (By room i mean closet), would it be a silly idea to just scrap
the
pots and make a garden bed, like backyard veggie style? depending on the
plant it seems more likely you could fit more per ft2 this way, so long
as
roots don't antagonize each other. just trying to max my space, you know?
TOPIC - High Watts per sq ft considerations
DATE - 09:27:35 3/03/99
FROM - Budm
Hi all(sorry for the post x2) I have a question for everyone,If flowering
"bush
style" in 2-5 gal pots of supersoil, if ya had 80-90 watts per sq foot,
what
would differ vs 40-50watts per, im wondering if not trimming the lower
sucker branches would be of benefit, do high wattage situations require
more nutes?, I know they require more frequent waterings, any comments
are great. Thanks ;-)
Peace
TOPIC - Last Post
DATE - 07:33:48 3/03/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, Vic if ya get a free moment, can you have a look at my last post,
and
comment on it. Thanks.Also afoaf has a male in his 12/12, in hopes of
collecting some pollen, any tips that might help him get that done with-out
impregnating his ladies would be of great help.
Peace
TOPIC - loop_hole
DATE - 20:08:02 3/02/99
FROM - nl420
I often thought about trimmin some of those big fans before.. How long
into
flowering did you do the trim?
TOPIC -
DATE - 19:17:34 3/02/99
FROM - Vic High
Pi! ahhh now I can relax, haha. So how's it going? Still have that darn
cali-o
eating cat?
Loop-hole - this second batch of sweet tooth turned out way better, without
the seeds this time. Very sticky stuff and a couple smell so much like
sweet
pink grapefruit it is nuts. Not quite as high yielding as romberry and
aeric's
cali-o, but still nothing to bitch about in that area. There is a fair
bit of
variation though, something I expected from a first backcross, so one
would probably want to start at least 10 or more seeds to get one that
suits
their needs. Definately a couple keepers in my book and once I have time
I
will be making backup "F2" seeds, just in case. Probably not before next
fall
though, I'll just keep the best backup clones bonsaied until then.
An interesting note, I finally took the time last weekend to process some
of
the sweet tooth from the first heavily seeded batch to collect the sweet
tooth
suprise seeds. I think the stuff has been hanging for a couple months
drying and I expected it to just crumble. Well it didn't. It just balled
up into a
sticky mass and I was only able to collect about 1/4 of the seeds this
round.
I tip my hat to Breeder Steve on this one. Romulan strawberry blonde
suprise will be done weekend after this next one coming up. It was even
more frosty, so ?
I usually powder the bud up into shake and then sift it through a vegetable
strainer. Any ideas on a more efficient method? Especially for the stuff
that
is too sticky to crumble?
This fast germination you guys are reporting is blowing me away. Ot, your
seeds have been around since the fall of 1997, and have spent about half
of that (at the most) in the fridge. I've noticed that they and the blueberry
have shrunk quite a bit since then, I expected their germination to have
slowed down a bit by now. It will be interesting to hear the feedback on
the
new stock that is out there now.
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:26:24 3/02/99
FROM - loop_hole
hey vic,
just wondering how your sweet-tooth turned out. Keeper or tossed?
everyone: re my last crop of shisk, if anyone recalls i trimmed some of
the
leaves off during flowering because those things are so damn huge. The
trimmed ones out produced the non trimmed by about 1.5 grams. They
were placed 2 per 5 litre pale (coco, rockwool flock, castings, perlite,
gauno, kelp etc.) and 1.5 pales per foot2 (or 3 plants per foot) vegged
from
just rooted 10 days and yielded a average of about about 17 grams each.
52 days total from rooted clone (with co2) . Ugliest plant i've ever seen
though.
nice new page vic. how do you find the time?
TOPIC - pollen
DATE - 14:13:02 3/02/99
FROM - newbie
does anybody have some pollen they would be willing to give or sell? I
am
trying to et seeds for an outdoor crop, but have no males. Any help would
be greatly appreciated.
TOPIC -
DATE - 17:17:18 3/01/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Hi Pi yes mine came in 48 hrs behind Vics 100% as well one is very
unusual in that its first leaves are 5 a side never seen that before. Ot1
TOPIC - Vic / ot1
DATE - 16:50:22 3/01/99
FROM - pi
Vic, i know you have been on needles and pins waiting for my GRAND
entance here. Well, i am here. hehehe
De ja vu on this page btw.
Nice, very nice.
I had similar results as ot1 on your Romberry. most vigoruos seeds i have
EVER germinated. all 12 of those white buggers popped in less than 12
hours ... Dammmmmmmmmmm!
ot1, all your seeds popped too but not anywhere near as quickly as Vic's
seeds.
i also have white rhino germed and a strain that sub picked up from the
Grey Area in A-dam ... Chocolate chunk indica. he also picked up another
strain at the Grey Area called Hawian Puna Butter that i have yet to
germinate. i will keep everyone posted.
keep up the good work.
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:19:34 3/01/99
FROM - m.g.
nice place vic! looks familiar too...
anyway, i'll stop back soon and post more pertinent info later...i see
my
name being tossed about here already!
but no time at this time...laterz...m.g.
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:40:24 3/01/99
FROM - Mota
Vic and Soul,
I haven't forgotten about the Fig Widow pics. Been busy and haven't got
a
chance to convert them from PCD format to HTML.
PAZ
TOPIC - veg time
DATE - 13:54:05 2/28/99
FROM - oldtimer1
I would like to point out that our No 7 grower over did the veg time hoping
for a bigger yield. The plants went to large, were hard to manage and the
yield was reduced by just over 30%. I don't think there is a fixed time
for
vegging it is down to to your variety and pot size. For us the plants that
did
the best had fully rooted the compost to the point of starting to form
a fine
feeder root network on the root ball surface. I think this is a pointer
to the
best time to go to 12 /12 hrs. Ot1.
TOPIC - new site
DATE - 11:03:05 2/28/99
FROM - stix
Hi Vic and all, congrats on the new site. Hope we all work together to
make
it one of the webs best. Those frosted ladies in front in the picture at
top of
page are beauties. Looking forward to keeping in touch with you all.
Special thanks to Vic for his work and effort to provide this site for
us.
TOPIC - virus transmission
DATE - 10:24:34 2/28/99
FROM - Vic High
searching for something else, but found this:
Time 16:57, 14 Feb 1999
From occam
Hi oldtimer1, sorry to break in, but here's an excerpt from "Plant
Propagation for Nursery
Growers" by Bruce Macdonald, pg. 6,: "...In many species, there is far
less
risk of virus
transmission from one generation to the next with seed propagation. Some
exceptions
occur in the Rosaceae where Prunus avium (Mazzard) is known to transmit
up to six
viruses by seed, e.g., Plum Ring Spot and Cherry Mosaic Viruses."
This suggests that your idea is at least possible. Hope this helps.
TOPIC -
DATE - 09:08:56 2/28/99
FROM - Vic High
widower - there is probably someone here that could give you a more
complete answer, but generally speaking, no a virus is not transmitted
to
the seed. If you go back to the previous location and do a search on the
word "virus" I think you'll find a small explaination of this from someone.
Just in case this isn't obvious to everyone, you can seach this style of
message board simply by using the "find" function of your browser. In
netscape 4.5, you get to it by clicking "CTRL-F".
Shabang - welcome my friend, haven't seen you around these parts for quit
a while, I hope this means that things in your world are picking up? Hope
so.
Thanks for bringing up OT1's trial on veg time. It kinda fits in with my
generalized belief that bigger roots equals bigger buds. I think OT's trials
clarifies this. What I mean is that a growers's desired veg time is going
to
dictate his pot size to some degree. Sure I get great yields with the big
pots,
but what my yields don't account for is the extra energy that goes into
the
extra veg period.
The longer veg time can become an issue for many that don't grow
perpetually as I do. My veg room is fixed in size and can produce more
than
my flower room can handle, therefore the extra veg time is insignificant.
This won't be the case for most setups.
My growing methods are centered around two constraints, maximizing the
yield per light while reducing the number of plants for legal reasons.
Finally,
as Shabang pointed out, the strain also played a role in deciding final
pot
size. For instance, I find romulan is most efficient in 10 gal pots, blueberry
in 5 gal, and it looks as if 2 gal will be max for this chemo I'm trying
out. This
is all with my lower lighting intensity as well.
Shabang - I'll do what I can to customize the look a little, I just didn't
want to
waste anymore of NL's time than necessary. He's shown me a better way
to tinker with teh html code, so I'll take the time soon to give the page
a
unique look.
TOPIC -
DATE - 08:44:14 2/28/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, Vic the condition that ive read about here, that is assoiciated
with
colichine(sic) treatment ie: deformed leaves, discolored leaves w blue
splotches running through them, is being displayed on afoafs
"SuperCrystal" only one of them out of 4 has this. Otherwise it looks
healthy,should it be flowered like the others, discarded, or treated specially
in some way. What is the benefit of this treatment for the breeder? Thanks
Peace
TOPIC - virus trans
DATE - 07:30:03 2/28/99
FROM - widower
I have decided that my friends plants are infected with verticillium wilt.
If He
sexually propigates his strain to preserve, will the disease pass to the
seeds? In other words: can virus' be transmitted from mother to seed? Any
other info on verticillium will help too, any resistant varieties? rx?
TOPIC - new board
DATE - 02:28:38 2/28/99
FROM - ~shabang~
True Vic, if you have no history or cache, you won't be able to see what
you've already read on the threaded message boards. No way around that,
its exactly what you're "clearing" to avoid. Its a good security procedure,
but
only if you have nothing else incriminating on your drive (pictures, website
files, etc). I don't believe there are any trojans, etc, that can browse
through
your history while you're online-- only if the PC was siezed would they
be
able to snoop.
---
For all the questions about container size, I think the most important
info
was given by OT1 about the rooting in the final flowering containers. Great
test, OT-- its a good lesson to see that the plants rooted for two weeks
in
the final containers outproduced the two other groups put together. Finding
the right rooting times, pruning method, and height for your own strains
is
the way to get the best yields. It takes experience to get those factors
down,
its not something that can be generalized.
---
Hmm where I have seen this place before? EWChat? hehe, you're on a
rampage NL, can't wait to see the rest of the site. FYI, I was wrong--
this
script was not originally by Matt, its called FruitBBS.. of course it used
to be
quite ugly.
TOPIC -
DATE - 18:29:48 2/27/99
FROM - Vic High
NL420 - thanks for the tips, not really off topic bud :)
Eric - The only 5 gal yield data I have on hand is the blueberry data at
BCGA. I've grown romulan (but not romberry) in milk crates (~5-6 gal) and
they seemed to work ok. I get bigger colas with 10 gal, haha. Not sure
where the data is off hand.
NL420 - say if I set my history to 0, does this mean that when I go to
weedbase that I won't be able to see what posts I've already read? I know
small bitch in face of security, but thought I would ask to see if there
is a
way around it, haha
TOPIC - romberries
DATE - 15:42:25 2/27/99
FROM - Eric
Vic.. i see you use 10 gallon pots ....well have you ever done a test with
5
gallon pots..if so what were your yeilds using 5 gallon pots????
TOPIC - Safe Surf Tips
DATE - 14:47:49 2/27/99
FROM - nl420
Some safe browsing tips for all...
1 - Set your history file to 0, this way no history of where you been will
be
logged on you pc and sites that check that info for surf patterns would
not
be able to see your surf history..
2 - change your disk cache to a small size like 512k and your mem cache
to 2048 or higher if you have the memory.. Have your cache deleted upon
exit of your browser.. Some like Nutscrape have to be manually deleted,
Opera has an
automatic feature..
3 - Do not keep real email info in your email settings if your browser
of
choice has an email function.. Use one profile for normal non worry surfing
and personal email,
and one profile for safe surfing..
4 - Have your start page locally on your HD and whenever you move from
one site to another always go back to your start page before going to the
site since some sites log where you came from.. So going from one
protected site from another is
a no no as well as going anywhere from this site except to your start page
since the log logs that you came from the IP addy of the last site visited..
5 - Always surf via a firewall or proxy server.. Even better daisy chain
2 or 3
proxy servers.. surfing is alittle slower but your imprint left is not
your real
address..
Hope these tips help...
Sorry to be off subject Vic..
:-)_~~
TOPIC - Refresh
DATE - 14:42:29 2/27/99
FROM - nl420
Having to refresh is casued by the browser pulling the page from the
cache.. hitting your reload button will refresh the cache.. A couple of
things
to try.. Tell your browser in the cache setting to always check the server
for
a newer version.. Set your history file to 0 so no history is recorded..
I am
using nutscrape with history turned off and check server everytime and
I get
the new message upon return from the Message added page..
Hope this helps...
:-)_~~
TOPIC - fixing auto reload
DATE - 14:28:45 2/27/99
FROM - Vic High
BB, got any suggestions to fix this?
This is a new area for me.
TOPIC - i did
DATE - 13:44:42 2/27/99
FROM - bb
notice that the browser does not auto reload when you come back here, you
have to reload manualy...best fix that!
TOPIC - Hi Vic
DATE - 13:43:13 2/27/99
FROM - BB
hey man just checking out the new message board....looks ok...keep up the
good work..
TOPIC -
DATE - 12:11:37 2/27/99
FROM - trelaway
Vic-the room is 20 feet square and they were vegging under a 400MH (the
bulb was up for replacement) and switched to a brand new 600hps. While
it
only works out to 30w/sq ft, the 600 kicks out 80,000 lumens so it's almost
4000 lumens/sq ft, which I'm told may be too high. I started the lite at
18"
above tops and that was way too close--the blues handled it fine (just
needed food) and the roms drooped. Once I raised the lite to 24", most
of
the roms's perked back up (they've also had a week to get used to the lite).
Plant tops are below 30c.
I'm thinking I should have started the 600 at 30" above the plants and
lowered it a bit over a few days, maybe I shocked them.
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:56:51 2/27/99
FROM - Vic High
BD - haha, hope to see you soon bud
Jay - we will have to find someone to scan these for us. I think I will
need a
new hardrive for all these pics. Might as well scan as many as we can
don'tcha think?
Trelaway - those droopy romberries have me curious, what kind of light
intensity are you working with? I think I remeber MG saying that his wilted
a
bit in the bright desert sun, but overall handled it ok. What was interesting
is that he said that the blueberry outgrew the romberry. Maybe blueberry
can make more efficient use of extra light?
Budm - I do my main growing in 10 gal pots. Romulan and romberry will
yield between 4 and 9 oz per plant, with 6-8 being the norm. Romberry take
8-9 weeks and romulan 10-11 weeks. I often harvest each plant twice.
Plant location, temps, pests, and soil batches all affect yield. Lighting
fluctuates between 20 - 30 watts per foot depending on size of garden.
Other strains such as blueberry and grapefruit work best in 5 gal pots
for
me. They seem to be a waste of veg room space and time trying to get
them big enough for 10 gallon pots. I have a blueberry almost ready to
harvest in a 10 gallon pot. Veg took 2 months to get it up to size for
flowering. Being bigger, it is suprisingly at 8 weeks flower and still
going.
Being generous, it looks as if it may yield about 4 oz (not worth the time
and
space). I've also noticed that romberry is ready to harvest sooner in 2
gal
pots than in 10 gal pots.
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:22:44 2/27/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, Vic in what size pots are you doing your Romberry now, and how
many watts per sqft? and what is the yield per clone at 60days? Sorry for
all
of the curiosity Q's,I was under the impression you still used 2gals.
Afoaf cut down there "Ingmars Punch" it was in a 1gal pot with a bottom
feed water tray with a mesh bottom, broken rockwool & pearlite composed
the bottom 2" of the pot the remainder was the BCGA super soil
w/castings,It looks as if it will yield about 1.5-2ozs! These bottom
watering/resiviour pots are neat, they let the rootball develop more mass
in
the bottom two inches of medium then a convential pot, and also allow
better bottom feeding of the rootball. The big JackFlash sat/dom monster,
with 6 HUGE heads on sticks, that is going to yield over 200grams is in
a
5gal version of this kind of pot. They come from WalMart, and are avaiable
from 1gal to 10gal. I think im on to something here.
Naughty Sorry spoke to soon about the AK47xNL#9, it was a male ;-(
However the 2- AKxAK sats are definetly females and looking good at a/b
7days of 12/12 heading into the strech.
Peace
TOPIC - bd.....
DATE - 09:29:06 2/27/99
FROM - jay
hey bro thanxs for the litle message,all is well here...vic site looks
good but
i really think i should get some pics of my 2 L pop bottle buds for you
to put
up...hehe...
TOPIC - new site
DATE - 08:34:34 2/27/99
FROM - BD97
-------Looking good my man, you eat off one fck of a full plate! how do
you do
it?
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:17:24 2/26/99
FROM - trelaway
Vic - yer right about the blueberry being a bitchy plant. After the switch
to the
higher watt lite, within two days the bottom leaves went necreotic and
yellow. A dose of fert fixed them up but aside from a little drooping,
the
Rom's hardly blinked.
TOPIC - testing
DATE - 18:21:32 2/26/99
FROM - Vic high
just making sure I put this place back together right
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:27:18 2/26/99
FROM - Vic High
Budm - I think it is the romulan that I took to compare with Emery's
romulan. Picture clarity sucks, but it is obvious that they are related
some.
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:25:52 2/26/99
FROM - Vic High
Hey thanks guys,
BCGA memebership? Well there really isn't anything as formal as a
membership. Basically anyone contributing is a member. BCGA it is about
sharing, period. A primary function is to create a hub of local growers
who
can feel comfortable sharing their ideas and resources. Multiple heads,
eyes, and ears is probably better than one.
Obviously there a a few of us locals that get together and socialize and
maybe even trade cuts in addition to pics and such. Oh, and a few war
stories, haha. By sharing clones we are in a sense creating a pool of
genetic backups as well.
We never loose sight of what brought us together and don't try to get to
know each other's true identities or anything like that. We try to remain
as
anon as we can.
Just contribute if you want to be be a part of BCGA. If you have a bit
of info
that would be a benefit to the BC growing community, send it my way and
I'll
add it to the webpage under whatever alias you choose. Detailed strain
reports, whether BCGA or not, are welcome.
TOPIC - Very nice Vic,
DATE - 10:38:33 2/26/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, nice move Vic, I like the new place, IMO the "scroll type" board
has a
less formal feel.Is the picture at the Top, Romulan or Romberry? Have a
good weekend everyone;-)
Peace
TOPIC - congrats
DATE - 09:49:02 2/26/99
FROM - sb
Vic
Congrats Dude, the page looks great.
TOPIC - Hello Vic!
DATE - 07:29:06 2/26/99
FROM - Old Bud
Well done ~V~ ! The board looks great! I like the differnt style of posts
and
the 'all' see threads.
Way to grow!
ps. How can we become BCGA members?
TOPIC - congratulations
DATE - 04:48:54 2/26/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Well for my two pennyís worth I kind of like the scrolling page style.
Sowed some of your Romberries they were the fastest to germinate out of
10 vars and a 100% germination.
All the best Ot1.
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:30:24 2/25/99
FROM - trelaway
I have a slow computer and this message system is quicker to use.
Weedbase and, to a lesser degree, Can Com are slow movin' boards for
us with old boxes.
TOPIC - advice and thoughts?
DATE - 23:09:47 2/25/99
FROM - Vic High
The good soul who got this board up and running has offered the use of
a
threaded BBS style message board instead of this simple idea.
The advantage of the threaded one (similar to weedbase) is that subject
content is grouped together. I can see a benefit to this. On the other
hand,
this board really isn't meant to be an alternative to Weedbase or
cannabis.kids or any of the public forums. I kinda like the relaxed feel
of the
current system.
The fact that messages get scrolled off means that we will often rehash
the
same topic over and over. The bad side is that this could be boring to
some. The good side is that maybe sometimes new ideas would be
thrown into the mix.
Lots of pros and cons to both systems. Any thoughts?
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:01:49 2/25/99
FROM - Vic High
thanks all, hey RC, the site is for all of us, not just me :)
Glad to see that you still drop by every now and then.
Everything Ok Jay?
Thunderheart, the old board was part of the old HBC message board
system. I was just kinda borrowing some space there, haha. This site is
a
private one acquired through BCGA. It's fully independant of any other
cannabis sites.
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:18:45 2/25/99
FROM - RC
Congrats and good luck on your new site Vic.
TOPIC - vic 911
DATE - 20:54:16 2/25/99
FROM - jay
dude phone me on my cell asap..!!!!
TOPIC - Best wishes
DATE - 20:18:36 2/25/99
FROM - Munty
Excellent move Vic,this looks so much nicer
Hope to see all the regulars here soon
All the best
Munty
TOPIC - Status of old board
DATE - 19:55:16 2/25/99
FROM - Thunderheart
Can we expect the old board to disappear, or will some still use it. I
am not
sure who really runs or owns these boards, i just know i like to read them.
Keep up the good informative posting.
TOPIC - pics
DATE - 17:10:45 2/25/99
FROM - Vic High
chunk, I can't fit the whole setup in one pic. I'll just try to post a
different pic
every now and then. The pic above was a disasterous attempt of growing
in
2 gal pots. Lighting was 20watts per foot under a suncircle. The two older
buds are romulan at 5 or 6 weeks. I get a kick when comparing these
romulans with the ones in cannabis culture that were grown with more
lumens, haha.
To their right is a row of K2AK47 and then a row of P75 at about 1-2 weeks.
My production dropped in half when I tried to use 2 gal pots so I'm back
to
the larger pots. I now just use the 2 gallon when flowering seedlings and
newcomers to see if they are worth keeping.
TOPIC - plant pictures
DATE - 15:56:25 2/25/99
FROM - chunk
nice site!
Vic,
is it possible for you to get detailed pictures of your plant and set up?
It
would be real nice.
TOPIC - Congratulations
DATE - 15:00:56 2/25/99
FROM - figment
Nice script, much cleaner interface than the old board.
And aside from the webmaster and and his minion (great job nl420) It
appears that I have the great privilege of the first post. All I can think
of is
this...
*Re-legalize Cannabis*
TOPIC - newcomers
DATE - 10:36:32 2/25/99
FROM - Vic High
For all using this forum for the first time, you should know that when
you
make a post it doesn't always show right away. You will need to reload
teh
page if you want to see your post.
Thanks and enjoy!
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:32:02 2/25/99
FROM - Vic High
Thanks NL for all teh time you put into this. Many of us appreciate it.
TOPIC - Board
DATE - 06:48:58 2/25/99
FROM - nl420
Vic - Well looks like this piece of the site is fully functional now...
check icq
for a message... What do you think about a Bulletin Board similiar to
cannabiskids.com.. It would be much much better than that site for sure..
get me on icq when you get a chance..
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