TOPIC -
DATE - 02:47:48 8/01/99
FROM - oldtimer1
nc have reposted you to the shark tank at overgrow as the guy posted there
as well!!!!!
Budm you have mail!!
TOPIC - A1
DATE - 20:16:43 7/31/99
FROM - ncga
IT IS UNBELIEVABLE WHAT PEOPLE WILL DO!
Our community is really FUCKED UP. This poster is a sick opportunist. Not
only to take , No steal, money from the
community but to take it from someone in need, fighting to keep their family
and personal freedom. Yes some of the
facts are right but a lot of extras to make it seam real and a tear jerker..
Maybe you feel pot is illegal fine it's a moral
judgment. But in NOBODIES BOOK IS STEALING OK
THE ONLY PLACE MONEY SHOULD GO IS
1 Directly to the Oakland office Addressed to William G Panzer
The above person has deliberately invaded our community and has decided
that it is ok to take money that people
send in to truly help another person they might not have ever meet. Truly
showing a side of the community other don't
think we have. Compassion and a since of justice.
I am truly sicken and Disgusted. Mike even you can look good compared to
this SCUM. At least you were fairly up
front on what you Weren't going to do. This community did all it could
to kept that type of character problem out. WELL
WHAT ARE WE DOING NOW ?
THE ONLY SOURCE OF INFORMATION FROM NOW ON WILL COME FROM
Vic High
Bongblaster
SCW
Or me if It needs to be corrected.
ALL OTHER POST SHOULD BE IGNORED . I personally think del and Ron Should
use the full force to protect THE
COMMUNITY. This is the worst attack on it ever.
Sorry to have to take them to do this but after donating to help and seeing
this I had to take the time to post
The Above is in response to a message at can.com. So please all, if you
see other information posted please correct
it. Can't let this happen to us. We may be Stoned but not Stupid
I hope dig into my collection Also to make some nice items avalible.
ncga
TOPIC - Let's see if this works ...
DATE - 19:00:44 7/31/99
FROM - pbi4fquj
Vic,
Trying this new proxy, but it doesn't want to do the regular E-mail thing ... ... oh well.
At any rate, lets give this a shot and see if the E comes through. Try
to send me a message, and we'll go from there
... .
Om Mani Padme
TOPIC - White widow...
DATE - 13:34:22 7/31/99
FROM - chronic man
I'm wondering if the White widow is the same from Dutch passion as it is
from Greenhouse. I got some from DP, and
didn't see all that much "whiteness", and was wondering if I got the real
deal or what. They sure did have alot of
variance, some were alot different than others. I'm hoping the Romberry
is better, I have a feeling it will be.
TIA
cHrOnIc man
TOPIC - 2 & 3 liter soda bottles.
DATE - 12:29:06 7/31/99
FROM - Budm
Hi all, af started using 2 & 3 liter soda bottles for some seedlings
& clones a few months back, usually he uses 1-5 gal
pots, however he wanted to start more new seeds then space would allow,
so he planted seeds in 20oz plastic cups,
then transpanted them into the soda bottles, with a mixture of new and
recycled supersoil, along with extra castings,
and gaunos. The seedlings were grown until alternating phylotaxy in the
veg closet, then went into flower closet, and
were flowered till harvest in the same soda bottles. The first results
are in now, so far one RSB suprise, in a 2 liter
bottle, yielded 15 grams of manicured dried bud, hes happy with the results.
The RSB sup's are really vigerous, this gal
had nice big colas 8"-10" in a 2L container!, and she had a great skunky
bouquet.
Allthough the soda bottles are not as stable as the regular pots, and require
more attention, and frequent waterings,
they allow more vareity in the flower closet, to try diffrent genetics,
with a small commitment of footprint/space. The 3
liter bottles are able to support a nice size gal of 2.5'.
As of late hes been using some 3 liter bottles, with clones from a BigBud
mom that he usually flowered in 2 gal pots,
and the yield is about the same. This one clone seems to produce the same
results in 3L & 2 gal containers, even with
2 weeks more veg time in the 2 gal pots. It seems that some clones dont
follow as closely as other strains to the "The
size of the rootball equals the yield size"
Peace
TOPIC -
DATE - 02:07:28 7/31/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Vic mail call!!
TOPIC - oil
DATE - 22:24:28 7/30/99
FROM - o.k BIGbud
anyone have a good recipe for some nice oil??
TOPIC - Widowed Trichome Syndrome
DATE - 15:29:31 7/30/99
FROM - Curious George
Thanks for the White Widow info. Senor Soul. You're quite right to question
whether there is a direct relationship
between trichome production and potency per se.
Trichomes themselves reveal Nothing except a genetic predisposition towards
the production of trichomes in unseeded
herb.
We learned that one the hard way many years ago. Some sneaky young vermin
found an isolated patch of ditch-weed
and pulled the males early enough to eliminate all seeds. The resulting
burn-bag buds were sparkling as could be,
smelled pungent and spicey, but wouldn't give you a buzz at all! It was
Zero in THC content, but looked, smelled, and
tasted just fine.
Until some enterprising folks come up with a cheap, reliable, do-it-at-home,
thin layer chromatography kit, we're all
going to be shooting in the dark when it comes to the question of potency
in general, THC levels, as well as the CBN
and CBD ratios.
Would it be a simple way to check for actual genetic potency to just test
smoke each strain as Seeded Herb! If it's the
strongest when seeded, by George, wouldn't it make the best seedless?
Just curious. ...
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:00:56 7/30/99
FROM - a friend
Thanks irish, I'll check it out. Hope others will also.
TOPIC - to a friend
DATE - 11:46:04 7/30/99
FROM - irish
check the shark tank and the outdoor board at www.overgrow.com
all info is there.
also e mail for the lawyer
wgpanzer@earthlink.com
TOPIC - A1 Lawyer fees
DATE - 07:29:14 7/30/99
FROM - A friend
Hey Vic,
Any update on who to send the $$ to. I know theres a timeline here and
would like to help out. I'll bet there are other
people out there wanting to do the same. I would also like to know any
particulars in the circumstances that led to his
bust. Thanks
TOPIC - White Widow's Contribution
DATE - 13:44:11 7/29/99
FROM - Soul
The major contribution White Widow seems to make in the crosses we've done
is adding not so much potency, per se,
but trichome production and density. It's uncertain how strongly trichome
quantity correlates to potency...but it sure
looks pretty when the plants are frosty & in general indicates more
potent plants - although exceptions are easy to find.
Another bonus - the more resinous the bud leaves, the better the grower's
homemade hash!
TOPIC - george
DATE - 07:07:01 7/29/99
FROM - widowlover
curious george, you know how it goes, some folks just don't know how to
pick a good mother, or they get ripped off by
the seedseller, or they're just unlucky and don't get a "keeper".
the widow is up there with the best of the amsterdam genetics of the past
10 years (the other obvious standout from a
breeder's point of view is JHerer). although the "real" widow (from "the
greenhouse"; the one that won the cup in '96)
gets alot of negative reviews from people who don't like its taste, find
it finicky to grow, not a good yielder, etc, it is an
EXCELLENT breeding strain. many of the recent cup-winners (GWS, rhino,
russian, etc.) are F1's from ww crosses. it
adds crystal potency to anything it's crossed with, so many breeders choose
the best non-widow mothers in their grow
and make crosses on them with select widow males, hoping to preserve the
mothers' good flavor and yield traits and
add some widow potency.
overgrow
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:47:03 7/28/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Ag/Bio Con, the Guardian [UK] say belong to Monsanto.
TOPIC - Fungus Folly etc.
DATE - 15:26:52 7/28/99
FROM - Curious George
Thanks to Danbo for posting that article about the soil-borne fungus that's
being considered for use against outdoor
growers in Florida.
It made the front page in some national press, and rightly so. Hope the Networks pick up on it.
Such complete nonsence! What the hell kind of drugs are those people on anyway?
Stay tuned ... this could become an election issue since brother Bush,
the Gov. of Florida, has brother Bush, the Gov.
of Texas, running to replace Clinton.
Sampled a bit of some supposed White Widow recently ... wasn't particularly
impressed ... tasted OK ... smelled fruity
... no great shakes otherwise.
What's the big deal? High yields? Sparkling appearance?
Just curious.
TOPIC - F2s
DATE - 14:01:48 7/28/99
FROM - modscrog
Budm-thank you.
TOPIC - modscrog-F2
DATE - 10:15:58 7/28/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All,
modscrog-The Peak19 F2s were made in a F1 grow of the Peaks, as were the
Nevils Haze, they were a gift from af, to
cross with the Panama Red male. Marc E has the Peak 19 F2s for sale, its
off menu selection, if you email him he will
eloborate. HTH
Budboy- af has had some 3-4' plants in 1 gal pots, but they are topheavy
and need support not to fall, and the rootball
needs more attention when its confined to such a small amount of medium,
like more frequent waterings, and its easy
to damage the rootball from dryout, it can happen real fast. I know one
gardner who uses small pots for gals that are
much bigger then 3 feet(6'+), but he is very very experienced, and has
his flowering room "dialed in" to perfection. Like
Bushy says, 2 & 3 gal pots are a better choice, and they leave more
room for error, as far as exact watering
schedules. HTH
Peace
TOPIC - Budboy and pot sizes
DATE - 07:47:56 7/28/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower
The I gal. pot is too small for a three ft plant, I recommend at least
2 and it should be a 3 gal pot. I have a concern that
a 3 foot bush in a 1 gal pot might need watering more than 1 time a day
if warm and that is no good the yield will be
much better in siol if you have a big enough pot approx 1 gal for each
foot the plant is going to ge at harvest, this
prevents root bound and yellowed leaves. The yield increase of a bigger
pot is undeniable just try an experiment a 1 gal
and the rest 2 gal and 1 3 gal pot, you then decide. OVERGROW!! BushyOlderGrower
:)
TOPIC - another grower.....
DATE - 22:08:37 7/27/99
FROM - budboy
Dam vic that suxs what happen to that califorina grower, I live in ca too
mybe if the guy wants i can get him in touch
with a few good lawyer my uncle is a law and maybe he can help out, But
any ways ,what size container do i need for
a 3foot mj plant , I have heard u can use 1 gal containers, I will be feeding
it ateaof wormcasting , bat guna , and liquid
se weed at every watering time, But what container do u sugest I use and
also how far apart should I have the plants
from one another?
TOPIC - F2s
DATE - 21:09:08 7/27/99
FROM - modscrog
Hey ya'll.
Budm- i havn't seen those little f2s at the bean shops.
?. thanx, mosc
TOPIC - A-1 and karma
DATE - 15:18:39 7/27/99
FROM - A Friend
Hey Vic,
That is a great thing you are doing.
I just happened to be near the lawyer's office today, and tried to stop
in to give my donation, but, no lawyer avail. I will
be sending him an e mail today requesting the best method of an anon donation.
wgpanzer@earthlink.com
TOPIC - business/politics
DATE - 12:47:37 7/27/99
FROM - Vic High
Some of us have a friend who fell earlier this year. He is a California
grower/electrician whom we knew as A1. He was a
regular at Weedbase in it's early days. I met him last summer when he and
some fellow americans came to Vancouver
to visit us BC Growers in a sorta fun minicup. (Grapefruit grown by Lothar
beat my organic romulan to win BTW) They
also had the pleasure of meeting Breeder Steve and Ed Rosenthal on that
trip. Anyways, he was the proud holder of a
medical certificate thinking that he was allowed to grow and smoke marijuana.
Well he got popped for growing over 50
plants and it seems that they want to make a test case out of him. The
government is hoping to establish precidence
in a few areas. One is to establish that medical smokers are not capable
of caring for their children so must choose
between the two. Another is to establish limits on what medical conditions
are legit, I think A1 found it balanced his
mental state and helped treat depression.
One thing that makes him a good test case is his lack of funds and financial
support. I want to help but my personal
situation sucks big time right now, I've had my share of bad luck recently.
Seed inventory is running low with only stock
of blueberry, romulan Strawberry Blonde suprise, and romulan suprise being
left. However, I propose to donate 1/3 of
my proceeds from this remaining stock to contribute to A1's legal defence.
So if HS, Emery seeds, or Seed-bank want
to help out the cause please get in touch. I will let the seeddbank send
funds directly to A1's lawyer and take credit for
the donation, wink, wink.
Stock on hand:
Romulan suprise
2 - packs of 500
2 - packs of 200
Romulan Strawberry Blonde Suprise
2 - packs of 500
1 - pack of 200
Original Blueberry - 2nd generation
2 - packs 500
3 - packs 200
1 - pack 100
** - PLEASE NOTE - **
I'm too paranoid to do direct sales, so please don't even ask. There are
three souces to enquire at, hopefully one of
them will be suitable to you, and be willing to participate in this fund
raiser.
TOPIC - soil question
DATE - 11:23:59 7/27/99
FROM - Budm
Hi all,
Vic- I know in the past you mentioned that there was a "build-up" of something
or another after a couple of times
recycling the supersoil, af has been recycling since he started 9 mos ago,
he originally started out with about, 20gals
of supersoil, and over the past 9months has built it up to about 80gals
of mix, most times a recycled pot is mixed with
a equal amount of new ssoil mix, with 25+/- additional amendments, also
over the past 9 months about 10 gals of
castings,have found there way into the overall amount of soil, along with
a few pounds of gaunos,at times Bioblend 2
part organic ferts have been applied, and reciently EJ Catylast has been
used every other watering, also used one pack
of Blossom Blood, anyhow, although its a very abstract picture of the auctual
precise make up of the medium, it
sounds like a nice mix of diffrent amendments at diffrent ages,and degrees
of decomposition, as of late hes been giving
some thought as to where to go from here, and what to be "on the lookout
for" with a few diffrent genetics, that each
vary in vigor, and nute needs, hes decided to ask "Where would you go from
here?"
footnote on a product, af has had a couple of gals in the flower closet
that are needing more "P" then the Ssoil is
leaching,and he reciently started using a new type of flowering gauno that
works great, its "The Gauno Co." the
"Budswel" product, 0-7-7, well leaf health started improving
with one application of Two-three teaspoons per pot as topdressing, results
are fast, he was suprised however to read
the ingredients,and find out that its not 100% gauno,its Earthworm Castings,
Bat & SeaBird Gaunos, in that order, I
guess thats why its less expensive then the 100% gaunos, but it works nice;-)
A couple of notes from the garden.
RSB sup at 43 days is looking great, xmas tree shape, big yield, a bit
hi on the leaf to flower ratio, very frosty, nice
smell, very long sativa leaves that curl and twist, from being longer then
any leaves ever seen! real diffrent looking.
Peak19 F2s, Are doing fantastic, this reminds me of the Princess reports,
"grows like a Indica, smokes like a Sativa"
fuzzy with tricomes, very impressive sativa soaring high and taste. These
made me a beliver in F2s.
Nevils Haze F2 #1
has the thinest leaf blades, even in the juvienile stage, they are going
to be very thin when the leafs get bigger they are
going to be very thin, they are progress a bit slower then average.
Peace
TOPIC - This is a great site
DATE - 10:57:25 7/27/99
FROM - Mr.Mryick Ebanks
Hello I have been looking around the internet for a while for Marijuana
growing sites and i can say by far this is the best
one. Thanks for the info Now I am going to overgrow big BRO.
TOPIC - thanks
DATE - 10:30:35 7/27/99
FROM - daddy cool
thank you VIC!!
TOPIC -
DATE - 07:42:59 7/27/99
FROM - Vic High
Stomata are for breathing air. They are on the bottom to prevent rain water
and debris from plugging them. Foliar feed
from the top. In the meantime, I'll keep my eyes open to support this,
the studies have been done.
Danbo - the arrogance of some groups never ceases to amaze me. Your article
started by initiating some heavy
emotions, but the more I looked at it, the more I lost the ability to condem
it. I started by thinking that if this was
contemplated by a lesser power, they would have the UN all over their asses.
But is this fusarium fungus any different a
concept that using BTK to kill gypsey moths? BTK is a bacteria that kills
moths, we spray it to kill gypsey moths
without worrying what it does to other butterfy and moth populations. I
guess in the end, money talks and we are
destined to keep relearning the same lessons over and over. We are not
God.
Budboy - you have two strains that are NOT known for their yields? Why
the newbie impatience in the yield
department? No way to predict what you will get there except to anticipate
something at the lower end of the range
proposed by tripp.
Daddy - The romulan story is posted at can com on the breeding board or
do a search on this page. So far only two
breeders are offering romulan genetics from two different romulan sisters.
Mine is the 10week sister, Federation is
working with the 8 week sister. They both have their good and bad points,
but I am pleased with the sister that ended
up in my garden :) As for hype and it being cool, In a garden containing
legends such as grapefruit, g13, that old Cali-o
legend, and chemo, the original romulan mother clone is still the best
in the garden as and all around plant IMO. I have
no intentions of releasing a pure version of her so you will not be hearing
a lot of hype from others. Also, apart from
giving a truthful answer to your questions, I don't feel it is nice to
talk about something I can't share. As for why Emery
and Federation have backed off on their romulan hype, I'll leave that to
them and their customers.
TOPIC - Leaf feeding
DATE - 06:52:00 7/27/99
FROM - Danbo
Wonder . Most of the stomata are on the leaf bottom. So it
figures the uptake is best there. I do however spray both sides.
TOPIC - Fungas
DATE - 06:42:51 7/27/99
FROM - Danbo
Hey Vic , Just sharing this article with as many as possible.
IAMI -- For decades, the hard part for drug agents stalking Florida's marijuana
growers was finding their crop. The
growers weave their plants among corn stalks and even tomato vines to foil
aerial searches. In swamps, growers make
berms out of muck and chicken wire and plant their crop, leaving fat, black
water moccasins to stand guard.
Hidden in Florida's lush landscape, the camouflaged marijuana plants often
foiled the small army of officers, helicopters
and drug-sniffing dogs.
Now, the new head of the state's Office of Drug Control hopes to kill Florida's
lucrative marijuana business in the very
ground in which it thrives, by someday dusting suspected areas with a marijuana-eating,
soil-borne fungus, Fusarium
oxysporum. It is a plan that has some politicians and Florida drug enforcement
officials excited, and some
environmentalists very worried.
The fungus, a bioherbicide engineered specifically to attack plants like
marijuana, is otherwise harmless, said Ag/Bio
Con, the Montana company that developed it.
"Is it safe, and does it work?" asked Jim McDonough, who was hired by Gov.
Jeb Bush this year to head Florida's
Office of Drug Control.
"I've heard some of the top scientists in the country say, 'Yes.' " But
McDonough, who served as Director of Strategy
for Barry R. McCaffrey, the White House drug czar, said the fungus would
not be used here until it was tested in rigidly
controlled conditions at a Florida site.
"When you deal with science, you deal with the cost of advancing and what
is the cost of not advancing," said
McDonough, who pointed out that 47 percent of the marijuana seized in the
United States is taken here -- and much of
it is home-grown. Most years, drug agents destroy more than 100,000 plants,
and one year, 1992, they destroyed
more than 240,000 plants.
"With prudence and with care, make your choices," he said.
McDonough said he has not yet presented the plan to Bush.
But in Florida, a state that has seen its environment ravaged by supposedly
harmless plants that thrived so well in a
damp, hot climate that they overwhelmed indigenous plants, some environmentalists
say introducing the fungus is
risky, that it could mutate and cause disease, not only in wild plants
but in crops as well.
"I personally do not like the idea of messing with mother nature," said
Bill Graves, senior biologist at the University of
Florida Research Center in Homestead. "I believe that if this fungus is
unleashed for this kind of problem, it's going to
create its own problems. If it isn't executed effectively, it's going to
target and kill rare and endangered plants."
David Struhs, Secretary of the Florida Department of Environmental Protection,
spelled out the dangers in a letter to
McDonough dated April 6, 1999.
"Fusarium species," he wrote, "are capable of evolving rapidly. Mutagenicity
is by far the most disturbing factor in
attempting to use a Fusarium species as a bioherbicide.
"It is difficult, if not impossible," he wrote, "to control the spread of Fusarium species."
The mutated fungi can cause disease in a large number of crops, including
tomatoes, peppers, flowers, corn and vines,
he wrote, and are "normally considered a threat to farmers as a pest, rather
than as a pesticide. Fusarium species are
more active in warm soils and can stay resident in the soil for years.
Their longevity and enhanced activity under Florida
conditions are of concern, as this could lead to an increased risk of mutagenicity."
What that means, say environmentalists, is that it is hot here much of
the time, and living things behave differently in
Florida than almost anywhere else in this country.
"In principle, I am very supportive of using biological agents against
narcotic plants," said Raghavan Charudattan,
professor of plant pathology and weed science at the University of Florida.
"This needs to be researched well or it could
lead to great danger."
State officials have agreed to quarantine testing of the fungus -- at a
facility outside Gainesville usually used for, among
other things, studying citrus canker, a catastrophic plant disease that
has ruined whole orchards -- and for now any
use of the fungus is probably years away.
But McDonough has some powerful allies, including Representative Bill McCollum,
a Republican from Longwood, Fla.
McDonough is planning to try to obtain part of a $23-million Congressional
allocation for research in eradicating plants
like marijuana, and having an ally like McCollum, as well as some Republican
fund-raisers who back the idea, could be
helpful.
In Peru, angry farmers have recently accused the United States of using
a soil fungus to destroy coca in the Upper
Huallaga Valley, saying that fungus has spread to banana, yucca, tangerine
and other food crops, according to The
Miami Herald.
American officials, while acknowledging in June that they had spent $14
million on research to develop such biological
agents against poppy, coca and marijuana, denied the charges.
In Florida, history has taught scientists to be cautious of introducing
any foreign, living thing into the environment.
While pythons as long as pickup trucks have occasionally been found under
houses in South Florida, most of the
problems have been with vegetable matter.
Kudzu, a Chinese vine that has grown rampant in the South since its introduction
in the 1920's to thwart soil erosion,
has swallowed houses and acres of roadside in Florida, as it grows a foot
a day. Melaleuca trees, planted decades ago
to help drain the Everglades because they suck up so much water, have infested
hundreds of thousands of acres.
Jerry Brooks, assistant director of the state Department of Environmental
Protection's Division of Water Resources,
said the difference between those plants and the fungus is that the state
has learned to be careful.
"Mistakes made in the past," Brooks said, "make sure proper precautions are being taken."
"They were not tested," he said of the infamous plants.
TOPIC - BUDBOY
DATE - 05:46:02 7/27/99
FROM - tripp
OK- i did the math for you. If you go by what I said you can expect anywhere
between 22.5 and 66.5 oz. In other
words- 1 to 3 pounds. But remember- it's only an estimate, although an
delicious one.
TOPIC - REPLY to BUD BOY
DATE - 05:39:48 7/27/99
FROM - tripp
There are no guarantees in how much or little, but you can always check
out the Greenman's list of strains and their
information at his homepage. This might give yoiu some idea of what to
expect. I've heard that under ideal conditions a
person can expect about 1/2 to 1 1/1 oz per sq.ft. depending on the sstrain.
I've got ideas fot you but it sounds like
you've got a good thing going. Good luck!
Link: Greenman's seedbank ratings and cultivation links
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:54:07 7/26/99
FROM - indulge me one more
please
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:31:29 7/26/99
FROM - one more test
sorry vic...but mucho gracias
TOPIC - ????/
DATE - 23:19:34 7/26/99
FROM - djchef
this is the test thing....he he he
TOPIC - romulan
DATE - 23:10:31 7/26/99
FROM - daddy cool
are there different breeders of this strain? i remember a lot of hype about
romulan but it doesn't seem as popular. have
there been any negative reports?
TOPIC - Foliar feeding
DATE - 22:27:20 7/26/99
FROM - Wondering
Do these lil guys take feed from the top or bottom of their leaves. Where
do ya spray it?
TOPIC - really need this questioned asked thanks....
DATE - 22:10:35 7/26/99
FROM - budboy
I picked up some uncle malacoms soil today and aded some dolmite,worm casting,
and some batguano, well i was
wondering> If i have 10 mr.nice females and 5 blueberry females and they
grow under the right conditons and finish at 3
ft, 80 degress in the room with about 60-70 watts per square feet in really
really good soil worm casting, giving it
orgainic tea at the feeding times, around how much yeild can i get all
together?
TOPIC - old bud
DATE - 21:02:33 7/26/99
FROM - tripp
thanks for the info. you're probably right about the hermie. I'll look
real close after I harvest. Are yo sure about the
seeds being worthless? that would be a total bummer. i though that a female
that pollinates itself would make 100%
female seeds. oh well, i've still got more seeds from the original stash.
oh yeah, do you think the seed in the
skunkXafghani are going to be worthless too?
TOPIC -
DATE - 20:55:13 7/26/99
FROM - tripp
forgot to put my address!!
TOPIC - Tripp
DATE - 20:41:17 7/26/99
FROM - Old Bud
You have a hermm in the mix some where. WW is very sensitive to light timming,
I had a few herms of WW and
traced it to the co2 gen pilot light. If you probe one of the buds you
may find a light green or light yellow male pistol,
but dont maul them to hard now. As for the seeds, well herm begets herm
so they would have no place in my garden.
Good luck
TOPIC - a question for the veterans
DATE - 20:16:55 7/26/99
FROM - tripp
I've currently got a White Widow and a Skunk#1 X Afghani that are about
10-15 days from
harvest and somehow they have been growing seeds. I have no other plants
around that are
in the flowering stage and I have never had a male anywhere near them.
In fact, I've never
even planted, or even SEEN a male plant! But some how I've got big beautiful
pecan-looking
seeds all over both of them. How is this possible? I thought that maybe
one went
hermaphrodite on me, but I can't seem to find any male parts to either
of them. I'm growing
them in a skylight, so I have to literally move them into a dark closet
everyday at 8PM and
out again at 8Am. I have been late at my schedule probably no more then
6 times out of
nearly two months. Anyone got any input? By the way, I'm certinly not complaining,
'cause
I'm about to have more dank seeds than I'll know what to do with!
TOPIC - How much yeild from my girls?
DATE - 20:15:22 7/26/99
FROM - Mr.peace aka budboy
I picked up some uncle malacoms soil today and aded some dolmite,worm casting,
and some batguano, well i was
wondering> If i have 10 mr.nice females and 5 blueberry females and they
grow under the right conditons and finish at 3
ft, 80 degress in the room with about 60-70 watts per square feet in really
really good soil worm casting, giving it
orgainic tea at the feeding times, around how much yeild can i get all
together?
TOPIC - magnesium not manganese sorry....nfm
DATE - 19:44:56 7/26/99
FROM - Cowboy
NFM
TOPIC - a little copy paste from nutrient disorder solver
DATE - 19:40:57 7/26/99
FROM - Cowboy
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo
Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is
too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for
rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which
can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies
often occur together, and are usually from a
high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem
so the nutrients become available. Foliar
feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
And in my own words a good foliar feed can sure help things when there
is a disorder,at least keep it going until the
problems solved.
later
TOPIC - forgot
DATE - 19:25:11 7/26/99
FROM - Cowboy
forgot to mention it might not be a lack of the nutes but a lock out ,could
explain why flushing fixed it up.
later
TOPIC - manganese and a little iron deficent?
DATE - 19:21:17 7/26/99
FROM - Cowboy
That would be my guess beings its at the top starting at the base and white
in the middle.
later
TOPIC - nutrients
DATE - 16:57:04 7/26/99
FROM - Vic High
Those that have been around for some time may remember me posting about
a nutrient problem I was having with
some blueberry seedlings. I was using recycled soil. I noticed my plants
were slowly loosing their zip but seemed
healthy none the less. However, suddenly the bluberyies flipped out as
shown above. Other strains looked normal.
Severe drenching solved the problem and the plants recovered, so my guess
was that I experienced a nutrient overdose
rather than a nutrient deficiency. Any ideas on what it was? Which nutrient
or nutrients? :)
TOPIC - Whoa new pic
DATE - 16:56:12 7/26/99
FROM - Capn Chronic
Whats the story with the new pic?
TOPIC -
DATE - 01:23:31 7/26/99
FROM - H.C.
curious george.
Comfrey takes up a lot of room that there is no doubt.I have a 40ft. row
of it and cut and incorparate it into my piles
twice a year. The first time late june when it falls down; and again after
frost. I put it in whole,stalks and all. It probably
would be best to mulch them but I dont have a mulsher. Maybe thats why
I dont seem to get any heat from them.My
source of heating up the pile is things from the sea but unless theres
a storm, I dont get much of that anymore.
Stinging nettle is primairly used because it carries a bacteria that is
condusive to the production of various soil micro
organisms that are needed to break the pile down.
As for quanties, use whats available wet or dry.
A little nettle dried goes a long way. Were talking a few big tablespoons
of dried product is enough. I believe most of
the organic compost pile activators use a bit.
hope this helps.
chow
TOPIC -
DATE - 17:24:44 7/25/99
FROM - Vic High
Thanks BD, been hoping you would post about your mushy roots :)
Budboy - a good natural source of micronutrients is seaweed products. Kelp
meal or similar. If you have any gardeners
in your area, then micronutrient ammendments must be taken care of somehow.
I still say your local garden or farm
supply outlet will be able to give you your best advice. Maybe your water
supply will carry all the trace minerals you will
need? Gardening/farming is a regional skill and what works in one place
doesn't always work elsewhere. Talk about
growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, that should get you on the right track.
I have no personal experience with Mr Nice, but have grown a few versions
of blueberry since 1996. Blueberry is a nice
novelty as a second strain in a garden, but not the best "main" strain.
It makes great crosses though, and many of it's
hybrids make nice "main" crop plants if you know what I mean.
TOPIC - thanx Vic high
DATE - 15:59:22 7/25/99
FROM - budboy
If worst comes to worst and I cant find it what should i use? because i
live in a preaty small town , also have u heard
anything good about mr.nice (g13 x hashplant) and blueberry just got them
today in the mail.
thanx
TOPIC - Trace Elements
DATE - 15:58:08 7/25/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All,
Eco sells a prod called "Eco-Trace" it has the following in it,
Iron,manganse,zinc,copper,boron,molybdenum,cobalt, and zinc. They say that
0.2 grams(200mg)is needed per gal of
nutrient solution. When using a standard "NPK" hydrob soultion that does
not contain trace elements. They sell 8oz
bottle for 16$us. I found it difficult to find Trace Elements in 3 diffrent
local garden centers. The BC shops seem to have
all needs covered from the blurbs Ive read about them, even the obscure
ones.
Peace
TOPIC -
DATE - 13:01:38 7/25/99
FROM - BD97
----hi ya Vic hope to see in a couple of days dude, live safe!---
TOPIC - pythium
DATE - 12:58:30 7/25/99
FROM - BD97
-----i`ve had this twice, too hot of water=no oxygen----brown slimly roots----i`ve
used a product called Accend, do not
breath this shit in, cut 1 oz. packet under the water and mix well. i`ve
seen fresh brilliant white roots come out of brown
mushy roots, it`s a sight to behold!!, just amazing!! in about 2 days.
adding reg. amounts of h2o2 helps along way in
preventing this, but get your heat down and you got it beat!
TOPIC - Replace comfrey with stinging nettle?
DATE - 12:35:18 7/25/99
FROM - Curious George
If there's a lot of room to cultivate a large garden, growing a great big
batch of comfrey for use as a compost additive
might make sence.
However, since many of us are very limited in the space available, can't
we get much of the same effect by just
harvesting stinging nettle that grows wild and free? Is there that much
of a difference between the nitrogen and trace
element content of the two plants?
Should either plant material be dried before being placed in the compost?
Or can it be done wet or dry, depending on
the condition of the previous layer of composted "stuff"? Just the leaves,
or the stalks as well?
If a batch of nettle leaves were dried, and then chopped-up and put into
a batch of soil that was being enriched and
mixed in the Fall to cook through the winter, how much should be used per
5 gal. bucket of soil mix?
Just curious.
TOPIC -
DATE - 12:21:54 7/25/99
FROM - Vic High
Budboy - they are right in front of you if you look in the right place.
Any garden shop or nursery will carry them. Ask the
salesperson, they are common with most gardeners, so you won't be blowing
your cover, hehe.
Another wording is chelated trace elements/minerals.
TOPIC - help with vics super soil
DATE - 12:15:11 7/25/99
FROM - budboy
I am going to make vics super soil but i cant find fritted trace elements,
what can i use instead and how much because
he calls for 1 tps?
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:15:55 7/24/99
FROM - H.C.
Sorry.
I didnt mention that its BOCKING #13 that you want to grow for the best
effects.
TOPIC - Comfrey
DATE - 11:13:59 7/24/99
FROM - H.C.
Comfrey has more nitrogen in its raw state than fresh hores manure. Although
it wont heat up a pile it is none the less
a very valuable ingredient for any compost pile.
Its chock full of trace elements and all kinds of minerals and nutrients.
A Bio-dynamic gardner wouldnt think of building a compost pile without
it.
I suggest that it be mulshed in the pile.
TOPIC -
DATE - 16:54:25 7/23/99
FROM - munkey
russian comfrey man.
other means for addressing an ongoing pythium problem:
H2O2
silicates
TOPIC - strange seedlings
DATE - 16:29:32 7/23/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, af has some seedlings with strange leaves, the first set of leaves
have three, instead of one, its the first time
ever seeing this out of many starts, any one else ever had a seedling start
with 3? Its a sativa indica cross from a
friend. A nice weekend to all;-)
Peace
TOPIC - Comfrey tea fertilizer ?
DATE - 11:42:07 7/23/99
FROM - Curious George
Oldtimer had made mention of using a particular variety of comfrey to make
an organic fertilizer.
Didn't see the post that first mentioned it, but I do recall reading years
ago that they had a found a cancer-causing
agent in comfrey and that its' use should be curtailed.
Does any of this agent carry over to the fertilizer solution?
Just curious.
TOPIC - pythin around
DATE - 07:10:37 7/23/99
FROM - Vic High
Danbo & Perp - that was funny :)
pythium - I never took the time to look up the specifics, but my understanding
coincides with Soul and OT. It may be a
waste of time with respect to this crop, but in addion to taking the backup
cuts and keeping them sterile, your friend
may want to keep the infected plants and treat them. Learning how to control
the disease will be a good way to learn
how to prevent it in the future. There are a couple hydro BC growers here
that have experienced the brown slime on
their roots these last couple summers. I think aeriation and cooling the
res were what solved the problem, but to be
honest, I didn't pay too close attention. Maybe one of them can pipe up.
TOPIC -
DATE - 05:06:59 7/23/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Vic you have mail.
TOPIC -
DATE - 04:18:23 7/23/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Hi Soul I agree!
TOPIC -
DATE - 04:16:19 7/23/99
FROM - oldtimer1
it means the old compost still has a lot of nitrogen left in it!
TOPIC - Pything up rope
DATE - 04:14:10 7/23/99
FROM - Soul
Loop_~ I looked for a reference to back me up, but I didn't find anything:
IMO, root disease like pythium cannot "follow" a cutting from an infected
plant as it has no roots. The cuttings, if given
a healthy environment should be normal & healthy.
TOPIC - Viagra!
DATE - 19:27:18 7/22/99
FROM - Danbo
So if my stem droops , I just use viagra? It was estrogen
a few years back as I heard it. Before that plain asprin.
I have the feeling it all just changes an underlying ph
problem.
TOPIC - lupins
DATE - 19:18:22 7/22/99
FROM - trelaway
Vic--I found the same with my variation of yer mix--the lupins hardly moved
once above the dirt but all my other flowers,
particularly sunflowers, seem to like it.
TOPIC - Viagra!!!...Ha!
DATE - 18:38:07 7/22/99
FROM - Perp
Sorry I ain't ben round much.....gotta share this! Ha! It was inevitable,
an' ya might'a herd it....BUT (they?) said 3 Tabs
(@ $16 Ea.) ouch!...dissolved in a Gal.? added longevity to some plants!...do
your own search.....I heard it on L.A.
news radio. Gotta run.....
ph
....mus be a hormone derivitive????? Ha!
TOPIC - this and that.
DATE - 17:44:29 7/22/99
FROM - Vic High
O.K Big bud - yep, it was due for a change a while back :) This location
(where I live/surf) has been stripped of anything
cannabis related, including pics. I'll see what is archived on the website
someplace. Anyone have a good pic they
would like to see here?
squirly - take some bagweed seeds and toss them in your backyard and then
go back and collect what grew in the fall.
Sorry, that's the best you'll get here :) You may want to try http://www.cannabinoid.com/boards/
or www.overgrow.com.
They are much better suited to answer your question.
Occam & Trelaway - this may be different depending on where you shop,
but I think part of Hothouse's success (in
addition to the marketing) is what it has to compete against, US field
tomatoes. Now I'm not hacking US produce, but
in the case of the US tomatoes, I think they are picked while still green
(only way to ship this far) and ripened while in
storage using ethylene gas and not the sun. This leaves them pretty tasteless
so you are stuck comparing two
tasteless products. The hothouse ones are prettier though, haha. What ripens
on the patio is so much more tasty
whether I grow them organically or not. BTW - my tomatoes love my used
soil mix ;). Pulled the cannabis stump and
planted two tomatoe plants per pot, haha. The honeysuckle hates it :( So
do the lupins. I think they like more drainage.
OT - that was great news on the legal front. Glad to see it won't be just
Canada contributing to American moral
corruption ;)
TOPIC -
DATE - 17:26:02 7/22/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All, Ive enjoyed the past couple of days here, the viewpoints shared,
have refined my consideration of both sides,
IMO "the next right thing" is keeping things as simple and natural as possiable,
trying to apply this within ones means
is what its all about;-)
Peace
TOPIC - The issue of quality...
DATE - 17:15:03 7/22/99
FROM - occam
Certainly the greenhouse industry is not enviro-friendly. I will not attempt
to defend them.
The quality of the produce is a separate issue. The stats I used were obtained
by Agriculture Canada biologists and are
considered accurate, (at least by them). When properly grown, the taste/quality
of tomatoes has more to do with
species, time of harvest and handling/storage, not whether they are grown
hydroponically or in soil; the same applies
for cannabis.
trelaway- let's not either of us assume we speak for all the consumers
who choose to buy the product. It's just possible
that some of them have discriminating tastes as much as you do.
Enjoyed the debate, there are many paths to heaven...
Thanks for being patient Vic.
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:40:11 7/22/99
FROM - oldtimer1
The carotene and vit C content vary vastly between varieties of tomatoes
so unless they were tested like to like are not
that relevant. They could be GMO enhanced do your laws oblige them to tell
you? $152 million that must represent a
lot of chemical effluent even with recovery systems there will still be
a considerable tonnage of chemicals to dispose of
each year how are they disposed of ? land fill, dumped at sea, into the
water courses or maybe put into containers and
shipped to a third world country it has to go somewhere. In producing the
pure chemical salts needed for hydro large
amounts of of waste chemical byproducts are produced including heavy metals.
Then there are the greenhouse gasses
and acidic aerosols released to the atmosphere. The electricity and gas
used to make the chemicals and run the
greenhouses. To my mind they are dam expensive tomatoes without thinking
about what they taste like! Its just a
matter of perspective. Ot1
TOPIC - how to grow
DATE - 15:10:43 7/22/99
FROM - squirlly
whats the cheapest and simplest way to grow
TOPIC - vic, more travelling shitbags
DATE - 14:20:08 7/22/99
FROM - munkey
hey vic, i saw a new chicken manure product today, it looked like good
stuff: 4.5-3.3-2.5, with 8% available calcium and
pH of 7.0. claimed to be organic...but then i noticed it was "Imported
from Holland"!
more world-travellin' shitbags!
;-)
TOPIC - bags of tasteless water
DATE - 13:04:35 7/22/99
FROM - trelaway
Lets not pretend people are buying hothouse tomatoes because of taste.
We buy them because they're pretty, appear
'perfect' and are heavily marketed as 'buying local'.
TOPIC - Hothouse Tomatoes
DATE - 10:54:09 7/22/99
FROM - occam
Tests on hydroponic greenhouse grown tomatoes by P.A.R.C. have shown 28%
more Vitamin A and 12% more
Vitamin C (average) than field grown equivalents.
Press release:
>>Vancouver, B.C. ñ BC Hot House, growers and marketers of greenhouse-grown
produce, ended 1998 with a record
breaking $152 million in sales. Thatís an increase of 65 per cent over
the previous yearís $92 million in sales. And,
since 1992, BC Hot House has seen sales increase dramatically from $27
million.<<
Bags of tasteless water? A matter of opinion, definitely.
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:14:38 7/22/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Good news from England
Colin Davis a spinal injury sufferer announced to the press earlier this
year that he was cultivating cannabis and using it
to relieve his pain. That it worked better than anything else he had tried.
So he was setting up a the first medical
marijuana Cooperative in Great Britain to supply marijuana to fellow sufferers
that wanted it !!!
Within a few days his home was raided by the police who found 26 near mature
plants and charged him with
Cultivation. Possession of marijuana and an additional charge of having
the intent to supply.
Yesterday in the prime ministers question time Tony Blare was asked if
he didn't think that the heavy prison sentences
given out to medical users was wrong. Replied that the government had no
intention of changing the laws on marijuana
and it was down to the law courts how they sentenced and implemented the
law. ìNot very sympathetic.î
Today the Judge and jury at Manchester crown court have given a complete
acquittal on all charges against Colin
Davis. This sets a president and it is difficult to see how the crown can
ever prosecute a medical grower or user again.
It also shows how completely out of touch our government is with the consensus
of the general public.
I just had to let you folk over the pond know that we are doing our bit to!
All the best Ot1.
TOPIC - picture change
DATE - 08:57:39 7/22/99
FROM - O.K.vally BIG BUD
hey vic..
i enjoy this page and hve got some great info hear.
if i had a scanner id love to send a pic of some healthy ones ....pleeeeeze
change yours..its a pretty sad sight
TOPIC - pythium
DATE - 07:55:38 7/22/99
FROM - loop da
There's a guy over at overgrow.com (general indoor) that has a problem
with Pythium in his NFT. He's not sure if he
should start over by cloning his plants or try to save his crop(he's only
a few weeks in). I really feel for this guy because
I could very easily be in the same position. I grow with water culture
and take my clones for the next crop off of my
plants I have growing ( I have no set mothers, I clone my clones). Someone
wrote that there is no use to take clones off
of the growing plants because they will already have pythium. Does anyone
KNOW if this is true. Makes me
re-evaluate my current methods. It seems you could lose a whole cycle (or
more ) if you had to start over and grow new
mothers. This has me freaked out a bit and would like to learn as much
about pythium as possible. Anyone have good
preventive measures (other than being very clean and sterile) and cures
if it hits? Any good sources of info? I want to
learn from others mistakes rather than my own ;-)
Interesting tread on the organics/hydro thing. I've got a few things to
babble about but I just noticed I'm late for work.
LaterÖ
TOPIC - organics
DATE - 07:06:09 7/22/99
FROM - Vic High
excellent post Munkey - that was an effective way of clarifying this isn't
a black and white subject, but that it has many
layers of gray. Goes with my comments that everything we do has an environmental
pricetag. All we can do is when
presented with two paths, try to make an educated descision which will
create the least environmental damage. One
needs to consider the money cost as well to some degree. If an "environmental"
product is 5 times the cost of a
traditional one, then you have to work 5 times longer to pay for it. Most
of us have environmentally unfriendly jobs.
Also, not all descisions will have an immediate benefit, but are stepping
stones to a greener situation. Buying recycled
paper is a good example. It used to be a very dumb purchase because it
was so much more expensive. But by
supporting it, it eventually became more cost effective and now is a greener
option. Just my warped 2 cents :)
TOPIC - oldtimer
DATE - 05:46:33 7/22/99
FROM - munkey
yes, oldtimer, we are using "organics" in the generic sense; most "organic"
puff growers are actually using
"transitional" methods and materials (at best). we get our nutrients in
stores, rather than from our own waste-stream,
and many of us "throw away" our used media, rather than recycling it. this
sort of thing definitely violates the spirit of
organic culture, not to mention the letter of its principles...
because of the clandestine nature of our grows, most of us cannot integrate
our production into the larger scheme of an
organic farm or landholding. it's much more difficult to achieve "certifiable"
organic practices in a closet grow! is electric
lighting organic?!
and the reason behind our choice of these "organic" methods is often based
on pragmatic standards of quality: the end
product is better to smoke and more marketable because of its quality (rather
than because of its "organic" label).
so the truth of the matter is that this method of cultivation doesn't bear
much relation at all to the principles behind
organic sustainable agriculture. that said, it is possible to try to minimize
the damage one does.
obviously the once-used, then-discarded rock-wool, run-to-waste, etc, system
is no better in principle than a polluting
factory farm growing pigs. another thing to consider is the origin of our
various nutrients: by-products of the destructive
fishing industry, imported guano from the caribbean and peru (! imagine
sitting next to a bag of guano on the 747; pretty
crazy to think of bags of shit travelling around the world!), bog-destroying
peat-extraction in canada, etc. if you can,
growing in your own organic compost is much saner. if you can...
overgrow, by any means!
TOPIC -
DATE - 03:47:51 7/22/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Vic you have mail!!!
TOPIC - oh yeah...
DATE - 02:10:22 7/22/99
FROM - trelaway
I have to agree with the hydro tomato thing. BC hot house tomatoes are
just bags of tasteless water, imo.
TOPIC - thoughts on steroids
DATE - 02:07:23 7/22/99
FROM - trelaway
They've only been around since WW2. One of the fears to come out of human
use is that genetic effects may carry
thru and crop up generations after their intial use, ie grandkids, great-grandkids.
I'm neither a geneticist nor chemist but an avid bodybuilder who took a
serious look at 'roids a decade ago. Cows get
them for the same reason Arnold took them, to increase muscle mass.
Imo, humans should limit manipulation to breeding.
GMO's, steroids and the like are examples of human arrogance, thinking
we can alter nature, safely, with a few
decades of research.
TOPIC - Good point.
DATE - 21:13:58 7/21/99
FROM - Old Bud
OT1 your comments on BSE are well taken, I have once again over looked
the larger picture. However not all steroids
are bad, in fact some are used as medicine. I live in rural canada with
many free range cattle ranchers as neibours,
some are certified organic most are not. The steroids are used at young
age to ward off common flu and cold viruses,
the cows are never stuck in a feed lot they eat idigenius flora during
the summer, hay and grain over the winter. These
are not the cattle your government is trying to stop but they do fall in
through the cracks and will be band with the lot.
TOPIC - organic or not
DATE - 20:02:06 7/21/99
FROM - Vic High
OT & Occam - I have no problem seeing your comments/rants dominating
this page for a bit :)
I think we have to accept responsibility for our surroundings and the "crappy"
world within which we live. We don't try
and save the environment for the environment's sake, it couldn't give a
shit what we do to it. It simply adapts. We
protect it for our own benefit, we are the ones that benefit for keeping
it healthy. I think too many forget that.
Don't get me wrong, my lifestyle isn't what you would call environmentally
friendly. Everything we do has an
environmental pricetag, even our existance has an environmental cost. I
just think we sometimes need to do things
because it's the right thing to do.
TOPIC -
DATE - 18:02:17 7/21/99
FROM - occam
Hi oldtimer1...your definition of organic is one that makes some sense...my
general smartass attitude about that word
is because of how it is used in an offhand way by some people. Semantics,
really. I'm not really into pissing in the
water supply either; my post was meant to provide another side, (dark side?)
of the story, and perhaps provoke debate.
Be true to your convictions, occam.
TOPIC -
DATE - 17:57:28 7/21/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Hi Vic hope you are ok! Sorry about the rant below may be you should delete
it its not quite on topic.
All the best Ot1
TOPIC -
DATE - 17:41:05 7/21/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Old Bud none of the things you mentioned would be classified as organic!
As in organic growing terms in Europe. For a
seed to be classified as organic it has to be grown on land that has been
cultivated completely free of any chemicals,
pesticides or fungicides for at least 3 years and cultivated to organic
standards and the parent come from the same
system. The same goes for animals, If you brought a calf from market that
came from a normal farm and let it loose on
an organic farm the farm would loose its licence to sell its produce as
organic and the farm classified as contaminated
with chemical effluent. Now this might seem nuts to you but if you buy
a piece of organic beef here you know that it
has been free to roam and feed on land that hasn't had chemicals of any
sort on it for at least 3 years before the meat
you have was born. That as a bovine it has never been fed meat by products,
that any grain or concentrate comes from
organic sources. that it was never fed hormone growth promoters routine
antibiotics or any food with GMOís in. The
stock levels are worked out so that the shit produced is in balance with
the land being able to use it completely with no
risk of runoff. Oh yes and no animal that has come from the organic heard
has ever had BSE the number of people
dying from this awful prion are still rising. Your government is threatening
us with a trade war because we donít want to
import beef with nearly 200 times the level of steroids in it that would
ban an athlete for life! What is the real cost of the
millions of gallons of pig shit in the Fraser valley, Pollution, the loss
of thousands of family farms and a few more billion
in the pockets of the dole corporation or whoever owns them!! is this really
progress?
occam I dont feel warm and fuzzy just doing the best I can in this crappy
world!
TOPIC - EEK!
DATE - 16:27:23 7/21/99
FROM - Vic High
drats, I'm an organic fan, but T2, I think there is a couple generalizations
and typos in there that hurts the overall
message. The smell argument is what got my attention the most. I can follow
the argument that extra respiration could
translate to extra smell, especially if genetics alone were responsible
for odours. However, it's been my experience that
diet is also a major factor, and that organically grown plants tend to
stink more. Especially those organic solutions
containing sugars such as molasses, hehe. I assumed the two week flowering
statement was a typo, ;)
T2, I know you were the messanger, hope you don't take this personally
:)
TOPIC - Hydro pollution?
DATE - 16:18:26 7/21/99
FROM - Old Bud
I have heard this mentioned several times over the last few years. Here
are a few points to consider.
1. the solution to pollution is dillution.
2. if 1 pound of manure is 'organic' then 2,000,000 must be as well? (ask
the fraser valley residents about pig manure).
3. Taste is and will always be an individual thing, hydro/organic, indica/sativa,
joint/bong etc.
I grow both organic and hydro for diff. reasons. I like to play with the
pumps and do dads in hydro, taste is great too. I
like organic to strat a new strain from seed and to maintain mothers. Its
easier to care for plants when you dont know
they're growing traits in soil.
I'm not saying screw the enviroment, but the small amount of nutes I dump
into my drain field does not compare to the
amount of pollution many of us generate everyday (cars, planes, electricity,
etc). Just my 2cents.
TOPIC -
DATE - 16:13:55 7/21/99
FROM - oldtimer1
We have done a lot of research in our co-op as to the amount of rooting
in the final pot to get the best yield and have
exchanged info on this matter in the past with Soul Vic and others. Taking
into account our varieties have sat heavy
genes, we have found that the final yield is the greatest when the cutting
has rooted through the rootball and the start
of fine feeder roots have started to net the surface of the rootball before
going to 12/12 hrs. Plants flowered earlier say
when the roots have just made it through the rootball but before the feeder
are forming, produce about 25% less crop
weight and never make the same root mass. Going several days past the optimum
rooting time and the final yield
starts to drop off again and by the time its a week its about 25% down
again. 10 years ago we were getting 250 g per
kw of light about 1/2 an ounce a sq ft now the co-op average is 1.5 kilos
per kw about 2.6 ounces per sq ft and the
co-op record still unbroken from last year is just over 2 kilos. Getting
yields like this doesn't just come from the right
timing in relation to rooting but getting a whole number of critical things
right. Other contributing factors are that the
lights have improved a lot and the selection of high yielding genetics
to mum up and keep. It is ironic that one of our
highest yielding selections has only had to be recloned once last year
just before its 16 th birthday! Interestingly Soul
whoís vars are more indica than ours and Vicís a lot more indica seem to
have similar experiences with rooting through
that we do. I have only grown their vars from seed at the present time
and haven't grown any from cuttings yet so I cant
talk from experience. I have grown fruit veg and puff organically for over
30 years, to me its the only way!
nodose I found C99 and P75a not to be heavy feeders but they do seem to
like slightly more nitrogen in the balance
especially when flowering. Their flowering is so explosively rapid that
they may need the extra to help processing the
other nutrients.
As far as comfrey is concerned I knew Laurence when he was alive and did
the bocking clone selections. I got my
comfrey plants from him and use it in my compost, the one you want is called
ìbocking # 14î and was selected for
producing the highest amount of potassium and the lowest lignin, it is
ideal for making liquid fertiliser it is a magical
plant. I think you can find this clone selection in the states as root
cutting offsets quite cheaply in organic magazines!
all the best Ot1
TOPIC - Devil's advocate, mwaahaahaa...
DATE - 14:28:27 7/21/99
FROM - occam
A couple of points for debating purposes, :)
#1- Ask a greenhouse producer or the biologists/researchers at Agriculture
Canada about the quality/flavor of their
tomatoes and you will probably get differing opinions...
#2- Hydroponics does not necessarily involve pumps, tubing, etc.,; handwatering
in soiless media (peat/perlite, etc.) is
hydroponics...
#3- Well, okay, drain to waste systems are probably not good for the the
environment.
No offence intended, but I'll stick with what works. I don't need the warm
fuzzy feeling of being an "organic" grower,
whatever that is. "The proof of the pudding is in the eating", or something
like that.
TOPIC - yet more reasons to go organic!
DATE - 13:59:43 7/21/99
FROM - t2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THREE REASONS TO GO BIO
(from the 1996 Positronics Catalogue)
Biologically grown Marijuana yields the best quality, as you well know!
Just picture a greenhouse full of tomatoes; one
half in the full earth, while the other half is in rockwool and fed with
minerals. Everyone knows that tomatoes grown in
earth give more flavor, and top quality. The same goes for Marijuana. Only
top-quality Marijuana is worth growing;
everyone can remember their best smoke ever, and all average qualities
sink into oblivion.
Bio is safer. Check out the Soft Secret reports, 80% percent of busted
growers got into trouble because they caused
water damage or got complaints about bad odors. Plants grown in water give
off more evaporation than plants grown in
soil. That's why plants grown hydro-style smell a lot more. Hydro plants
smell the whole time, even while they're
growing. Plants grown in soil actually only smell during the two weeks
they're in bloom. So there's much less chance
of causing trouble with unwanted odors. Pumps, tubes and valves can be
interesting, especially for salespeople, but
are risky for the smoking grower. Something always goes wrong and then
you and your neigbors are all inconvenienced
by water damage. Growing in soil, you only water the plants while you are
there, which is much safer.
Artificial fertilizers are bad for the environment. The concentration and
intensity is so high that most of the fertilizer
rinses through and ends up in the ground water. The production of these
fertilizers is damaging for the environment, half
of the Cadmium in the Dutch environment comes from a handful of fertilizer
factories. Professional growers have access
to expensive nutrition-computers that keep track of the nutritional value
of the liquid in their greenhouses. Home
growers cannot afford this luxury, and have to regularely refresh their
nutritional liquid, weekly rinse away a great
amount of unused fertilizer through the sewers, creating an extra strain
on the environment.
TOPIC - Overgrow.com is
DATE - 13:45:50 7/21/99
FROM - Moose
upgrading its server today, or soemthing like that. I read a notice in
the announcements forum to the effect that the
upgrade would take place on 21 July. Also in that post was the suggestion
that the Weedbase search engine might be
back in operation today as one of the results of the upgrade.
Moose
TOPIC -
DATE - 13:39:23 7/21/99
FROM - joe blow
Anyone having problems getting into overgrow.com? I can't even get a page
up without entering a username and
password.
Seems very odd....just happened today.
TOPIC - thanks again everybody (esp. Shaggy/Trelaway)
DATE - 12:44:10 7/21/99
FROM - damion
appreciate the butter and oil advice. Good to see you Shaggy and Trelaway.
If anybody is interested in any woodstock
details, I'd be happy to help here or in a more appropriate place since
it's off topic. But have a great weekend and stay
safe everybody! Damion
TOPIC - sb@operamail.com
DATE - 11:29:36 7/21/99
FROM - sb
Hibe
Could you email me w/your E-addy please? add your PGP key if you use it.
peace
sb
PS: I'm ashamed to admit that I allowed the B to die due to neglect on my part.
TOPIC - organic way
DATE - 08:15:15 7/21/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower
I likes Hibes analysis of why grow organic a while back, is good to see
someone else agree with him too. Catalyst is to
start up the bacterial culture that will allow for good uptake of nutrients
from the organic mix. I had one disagreement
with souls tips and that was the end of veg and having the plant fully
rooted. I have plants starting shoot when 1 ft
bushes and put them into flower then so I get some growth in the flowering
room, they get just the right height and I feel
this is a way to maximize your yield. Timing is everything, go for the
shoot! Good to see so many believe in organic
indoor. OVERGROW--PEACE!!! BushyOlderGrower
TOPIC - trelaway, a few notes & caveats; hibe
DATE - 07:47:01 7/21/99
FROM - nodose
trelaway, soul's organic technique and formulations are excellent, but
it's important to note that the formulae need to be
tweaked to accommodate different strains of weed. soul's predominantly
sativa mix feeds HEAVILY: other strains that
are more indica-dominant don't need as much feeding, and over-feeding is
definitely to be avoided if possible (reduces
yield and quality).
also, there are different methods of making tea. although the teabags work,
they retain alot of the "base" material. imho
it's better to get that stuff into the mix, even if it wants to settle
out. to achieve this one can use a technique from the
apothecary, "succussion". this means adding the base material to a bottle
of water (to which one can also add a
wetting agent), capping it and shaking it madly for as long as possible.
an old paint mixer would be ideal for this
purpose.
the original technique calls for banging the container repeatedly on a
hard surface, but this has foreseeable
consequences ;-)
after the prolonged shaking, allow the contents to settle for a minute
and pour off the liquid, keeping the undissolved
matter in the bottle. add more liquid and wetting agent, and repeat. usually
2 times is optimal. you'll never get
everything to dissolve, but you'll be surprised at how much DOES.
and needless to say, you want to dump everything into your final tea, dissolved
or undissolved, and keep it well-stirred
while watering, to keep the "chunks" in suspension. also, make a point
of not always watering the plants in the same
order: otherwise the "dregs" of the tea will always go to the same plant(s)
and the nutrients will be unevenly distributed.
hibe, good to see ya buddy, i think we knew each other in a previous life (and i ain't talkin no newage doodoo heah!) ;-)
i read something about the differences in root physiology between bare-root
hydro and "soil" systems. there were
definite differences, but the article didn't go into their relation to
differences in the "aboveground" part of the plants. the
difference was in the ratio of "tap" roots to lateral "fine" roots. if
there is root chemistry or metabolism that occurs
predominantly in one type of root over the other, then that could obviously
be manifest in the rest of the plant.
there's also the obvious difference between the chemistry a bare-root environment
is gonna support, and that of a "soil"
type matrix...
hey, i also ran across something that relates to your earlier experiments:
the use of Comfrey (herb) as a flowering fert.
specifically, in Gro-Mag vol 1, issue 4, there's an article about the use
of russian comfrey as a blossom promoter.
apparently the comfrey-derived nutrient "far exceeded its commercial competitors"
in performance. the contact orgs
given with the article are both in the UK, unfortunately, but the article
gives instructions for growing the plant and
making it into organic goodies.
hope some of this is useful :)
TOPIC - m.o.m.
DATE - 21:03:29 7/20/99
FROM - malahat
Call me.
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:05:37 7/20/99
FROM - hibe
Nice post nodose.You mentioned a couple o` good reasons for the hydro-lack.I`ve
been researching one other
possibility and would be interested in some feedback from the biology/plant
physiology types..
In immersed-root hydro systems(ie.NFT,DWC),will the root system grow the
same feeder/water root ratio they would
grow in a supported soil environment?If no,Do you think there is any difference
to the way that plant would grow,
express traits, and bear fruit with an altered root configuration/environment?
Do you think that washing the roots with a
stream of nutri-flow is good,bad or indifferent? And finally,Can you make
plants adapt to this type of rootzone
environment in a month? year? 10? 100? 10,000?Never,in a million years??????
I need some answers...preferrably by someone who knows the biology of roots.
hibe
TOPIC - expert testimony
DATE - 13:47:50 7/20/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower
How can a U.S. citizen testify on the prices of pot without creating suspicion
on himself. We cant openly testify about
what we do and know about. Oppression is the rule of law in USA and we
want to help but I don't see how I could.
Since you would need a local expert to accurately testify about market
values in the area and a local dealer would be
nuts to admit to this expert knowledge. Why not try another approach, was
your client growing in his home? It is your
right as a mans home is his castle, at least when I asked a real smart
one armed older lawyer what he thought about
me growing a big old bush in my house. He said so but he is dead now. You
can help us fight to beat the case in court
and the supreme court would never hear the case. Medical marijuana kills
all arguements that we can't choose to grow
our own herbs and to have the right to use them. I am a herbalist and I
can say that marijuana is the most valuable
medicinal herb on Earth. Wish I could help but I am working many ways to
further the cause. Too paraniod to testify
about my knowledge in your court sorry. BushyOlderGrower Hey and I used
chem ferts befor I went organic and they
were not as dark green and healthy, had a tendency to burn easier with
chem ferts. I use pure blend grow and bloom
formulas, entirely organic, mix is good potting soil 1/4 worm castings
2 table spoons dry lime 1/2 cup bone meal and
1/2 cup blood meal all start to finish in 2 gal pots with a few earthworms
and oh yeah I start the pots with Alaska
Start-up seedling and transplant food. It has b-1 and yeast with sugars
that quickly starts the organic uptake of
nutrients. I use small pots cause I have limited head room any way and
I do the bushy plantlet march as I call it. 2:1
hps to MH later in flower. My plants hands are 12 inches and the 2 foot
bushes have 1/2 inch thick stalks with 8 colas
average. Love the vigor of indoor organic. BushyOlderGrower PEACE
TOPIC - louis....
DATE - 12:46:50 7/20/99
FROM - trelaway
This is a clipboard file I kept of Mr.Soul's organics and if you click
on the bcga icon above you'll hit the main page to
this board where you'll find some discussions on soil:
1. My soil mix is (by volume) 50% worm castings, 25% Pro-Mix, and 25% perlite.
Simple as that.
2. I feed with tea at EVERY watering of my plants & since they're flowered
in
2-gallon containers - that's usually every day!
3. The teas I use are made by soaking a "tea bag" (got mine at Worm's Way)
in a
5-gallon bucket of pH = 6.2 water. Agitate and manipulate the bag a LOT
to
release as much of the "goodies" as possible - the water looks like it
came from a
mud puddle when you've got it right. I do one thing I've never heard other
growers mention doing - I measure the ppm of my tea.
Here are the contents of the tea bag, depending on growth stage:
Vegetative => 1/2 cup each of PSG & worm castings. I also add a 1/2
cup of
Maxi-Crop liquid seaweed, plus two Tablespoons of Alaska fish emulsion
to the
water.
(I shoot for a ppm = 1000)
Flowering (weeks 0-4)=> 1/2 cup each of PSG & High Phosphorus bat guano.
I
also add a 1/2 cup of Maxi-Crop to the water. (ppm 1250 - 1500 )
Flowering (weeks 4-7)=> 1/2 cup each High Phosphorus bat guano and worm
castings. (shifting ppm from 1500 -> 1000)
During the final week of flowering, many folks choose to use plain, pH-adjusted
water for "clearing" but I don't. I haven't noticed any difference between
when I
have & when I haven't "cleared". This seems reasonable when growing
organically - why clear? Clear WHAT? They're living in the medium in which
they've evolved for millions of years!
A few other hints:
SOAK the pots thoroughly when watering, then allow them to become "light"
when lifted before watering again...the plants LOVE a short drying out
period.
The amount of time it takes for the plants to dry out is constantly getting
SHORTER as they grow...be AWARE!
Water BY HAND! At least get an accurate feel for how much the average plant
needs by hand-watering before setting up a drip system or whatever.
Transplant you clones into the container you plan to flower them in &
veg them
until their roots systems are FULLY established before flowering them -
this
will MINIMIZE stretching...check this out for yourself, it works!
TOPIC - organic vs. chemical
DATE - 11:26:37 7/20/99
FROM - Louis
I' right now growing some beautifull all organic g-13, and juicy fruit,
there doing great!!! much better than last year when
i used chemical feertilizers. Any feedback? What do you think? Any good
organic recipies out there?
TOPIC - correction
DATE - 10:41:58 7/20/99
FROM - Budm
The gauno in the post below used during veg as a top dressing is 10-3-1,
not 5-1-1.
TOPIC - Super Soil & A Trace Elements Question.
DATE - 09:07:50 7/20/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All,af started out his 1st grow with supersoil, and its easy to work
with and forgiving, hes been recycling it, by mixing
the older soil 40%-50% with freshly made up new supersoil, with allowences
of extra components for used up
amendments in the older mix, and as trelaway uses a occasional fert, af
uses a 5-1-1 bat gauno in veg, and a 1-15-.5
bat gauno in flower,occasionally as a top dressing, also in flower each
few waterings he includes a teasponn per gal of
liquid kelp. He just ordered some Earth Juice Catyalst, to add to his gals
menu, anybody have comments about EJ
Catylst? Id really like to read them.Also he has a bottle of "Eco Trace"
trace elements, but does not know how to
utilize them, can anyone lend a hand? The manafuctures catalog only has
a recomdation for hydro systems @
.02-grams per gal of soultion.TIA
Peace
PS: The Peak 19 F2s, are dry enough to sample, and they are very tasty
allready, when cured they should taste out
standing, the one gal thats been harvested sticks to the Stonehedge traits
and shes as impressive as the mom that
she came from, wonderfull AM smoke, non debiltating high energy puff, one
of those highs where random thought
activity is noticeable, really stimulates creativity. The nugs were very
frosty and sticky.They are average yielders, but
thats only a few gals sampled, thats the nice part about F2s, they are
free so you can, over time keep growing them
out, looking for the special mommas.
TOPIC - organic/chem
DATE - 13:59:12 7/19/99
FROM - trelaway
I've spent the last year learning to grow organically (did a few years
of successful hydro) and what i've done is keep a
20-20-20 around and a 15-30-15. I've used them less and less but they're
great if you can't figure out a problem.
Get ones with a complete profile, ie. micronutes. Mostly I've relied on
a good flush and a feed of chem fert, with ph
check, and it's gotten me thru most of the problem plants.
TOPIC - kelp & maxicrop, organics: chronic
DATE - 06:48:51 7/19/99
FROM - nodose
chronic, maxicrop is made from norwegian kelp. it is very finely ground
and made into a concentrate that you mix with
water. make sure you don't get the maxicrop "fish" by accident, the bottles
are similar.
you can also buy kelp meal or powder. "algamin" is another norwegian kelp
product, and there are other regional
brands (Espoma kelp meal is pretty cheap by comparison, though it's made
with the same kelp).
kelp meal can be added directly to your soil mix, or you can soak it to
make tea (1-2 tablespoon/gallon). finally, you
can use kelp tea for foliar feeding, the plants LOVE it...
on the question of organics: although some growers manage to produce very
good quality bud using chem ferts, the
concensus among "former chem-hydro growers" that i talk to is, organics
produce tastier, smellier bud OVERALL, with
less tweaking.
the EXCELLENT UK publication of indoor gardening, Gro-Mag, had an article
in vol 1, issue 4, titled "Taste Test". the
article described a "blind" taste-test of 6 batches of tomatoes, one grown
with organic compost and teas, the other 5
grown with 5 different hydroponic nutrient systems in an NFT system(maxi-crop
green, power-gro, optimum,
phostrogen, earth juice; the 6th nutrient was a failure and wasn't included
in the test).
the results were clear, and confirmed by a second tasting: the compost-grown
tomatoes were sweeter,
stronger-flavored, stronger-scented, etc. the organic NFT tomatoes (earth-juice)
placed 2nd overall, but had less flavor.
there are a couple of obvious reasons for this: so-called "complete" hydro
nutrients are FAR from complete (most
contain only 15-20 mineral compounds, whereas natural soils [and well-balanced
organic nutrient programs] contain up
to 100). organic nutrients also contain natural growth-boosters (plant
hormones like auxins and cytokinins, vitamins,
sugars, microbes) that hydro ferts typically lack...
if EQUAL CARE is taken using organic and non-organic techniques, i think
you'll find that the organic systems
ALWAYS produce healthier, tastier weed that keeps better. and the EQUAL
CARE part is critical: poorly grown organic
bud will not be as good as carefully-tended "chem hydro" bud (which can
be pretty damn good if it's done right)...
best of luck, GO ORGANIC
TOPIC - One more thing..
DATE - 00:38:16 7/19/99
FROM - chronic man
Is kelp meal the same as maxicrop???
cHrOnIc man
TOPIC - Vics super soil again...
DATE - 00:35:59 7/19/99
FROM - chronic man
Jay..SO I take it that you use the mix then? Have you ever used chemical
ferts?? And how do they compare to organic
to you?? If anyone else has any input, I'd love to hear it. I know most
of you will say the taste is better, but are they
healthier??
TIA
cHrOnIc man
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:12:36 7/18/99
FROM - Vic High
Jay, you pretty much covered it.
Worker -it's a big world, you willing to fly in the witness from anywhere?
:)
TOPIC - expert witness re: street values
DATE - 21:27:14 7/18/99
FROM - worker
I am a criminal defence lawyer. I require an expert witness to testify
at a sentencing about the yield per plant, the level
of sophistication of a grow operation and the likely street value of the
product at maturity etc. Please Email me if you
know of someone.
TOPIC - chronic man and super soil
DATE - 17:08:02 7/18/99
FROM - jay
hello chronic,dont think we have really met before..the picture at the
top of the page illustrates romberries in 10 gallon
pots and in the supersoil...the soil mixture is designed for 6 weeks of
veg and then going to flower light cycles.vic has
reused the soil by just planting a clone in and using fish ferts for veg
as the nitrogen source will be dipleted in the
soil,but i wouldnt recomend using soil more then for 2 crops as many diseases
can linger in the soil if not careful,im
sure vic can shed a little light on that if you ask..it is quite a simple
mix and yes just straight water..
TOPIC - Blue report
DATE - 13:55:36 7/18/99
FROM - 67ed
Hello everyone:
I just wanted to say, I haven't really been busted...at least, not for
this...
Say, I started two Blueberries in late April, and planted in a field..I
kept thinking short, slow-growing indica...After one
month, the tallest was two feet or more!
I had to cut back to the first node...now I have short, manageable bushes..I
plan on digging them up around the first of
Oct., and bringing them home to where I can protect them on the cool nights...Will
keep posted if anyone is
interested..
Also, I have some Niagara which are indicating sex now(outdoors at the
37th)
I've got a Power Plant x Thai in the ground now that I've flowered and
rejuved twice since last Jan..This is a great
hybrid..both parents came from Dutch Passion via Heaven's Stairway..It's
a most visual, up high because of the
presence of thcV in the Power Plant Mom which was passed down to her daughter..
Still got some haze, too. My favorite! Will cross with Blueberry(Blaze
#2) if possible..
TOPIC - Vic's super soil mix..
DATE - 12:16:18 7/18/99
FROM - chronic man
I have a few questions about the mixture. First off, I've been seeing a
few photos of plants in the mixture, and they sure
do look happy!! I've been having problems with the mix I've been using,
(Sunshine #4, GH ferts with epsom salts), and
I've been looking for another recipe to use. I do like to use worm castings
also, and I've noticed how much better they
look when I use them. Is this mix complete?? I mean is there no other additives
that should be added all through
vegging and flowering?? Also, is Maxicrop the same thing as kelp meal??
I am looking forward to trying this recipe. No matter how long I flush
the soil, I always seem to get a slight chemical
taste. Also, I would like to try to reuse the soil. I get tired of throwing
away all that dirt every time. I read somewhere
here I think that this mix can be reused. That would be cool..it gets expensive
and is time consuming as well as
looking a little strange taking all those bags of dirt to the dump. I've
run out of room to put it out in the yard, so every
three months I get to go to the dump, pay them, then I get to go to the
local nursery to pay them for more dirt. I have
reused the mix that I've been using, and it worked OK, but I'm not into
second guessing.
TIA
cHrOnIc man
TOPIC - More butter stuff...
DATE - 06:59:48 7/18/99
FROM - shaggy
I've got to definitely agree w/Trelaway about testing them out. My first
real batch was all the leaves from 5 or 6 Sage
males I had. I'd tried it before w/o much luck (buds in butter), so I ate
a great big piece to make sure. Whoops! I had a
very difficult time leaving the house 4 hours later because I was so obviously
wasted. Flourescent red eyes, mumbling
to myself, non-responsive--actually pretty usual in the city heheh. I remember
telling my friend it would end a good 8
hours later and being told I was full of crap. Well, 8 hours later we were
all still out of it. I can understand how you
passed out. It can be a real heavy STONE--not really like getting high
at all. Very narcotic.
I've found that butter either REALLY works or REALLY doesn't. No real middle
ground. I've never had a headache and
only use non-mature males for some batches (and all my shake for others.
Actually, I don't really care for the
brownies--too strong for me! My wife makes batches of brownies and fudge
for a friend who get terrible migraines. They
really seem to help.
stay safe,
shaggy
TOPIC - butter supplement...
DATE - 23:05:38 7/17/99
FROM - trelaway
eat a test cookie before woofing a bunch down. Eating is soooo totally
different from toking....
I've made cookies that knocked me out for hours and hours and hours only
to wake up at three am on my bathroom
floor....still stoned.
TOPIC - butter
DATE - 23:00:10 7/17/99
FROM - trelaway
I make butter all the time from fans, stalks and trimmings. Use about four
oz of dry plant matter to a half-pound of
butter, cook as described below.
I've been finding that if I cook with immature plants, ie. ones not finished
flowering, I'm more prone to headaches.
TOPIC - wacky edhassle
DATE - 12:15:54 7/17/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All,
Ed try this email above,it has a auto-responder, so if you get a reply,
I got it. Anyone looking to add a autoresponder to
there email, check out bigfoot.com, they have some great email tools that
you can get anon and free, and it works in
conjuction with your present email addy.
Peace
TOPIC - hey Damion,
DATE - 11:48:34 7/17/99
FROM - shaggy
Nice to see you're still doing Ok...
I've never known anyone to use schwag in oil/butter and have success. It
usually isn't very strong. I use the old butter
method for ALL my shake--take all the shake and add it to water in a big
pot. Drop in a couple of sticks of butter and
boil it. after it reaches a boil, reduce the heat and let it simmer for
2-4 hours. Probably this is too much, but better safe
than sorry. When you're done, pour your mixture through a cheesecloth (found
at most kitchen shops and some
supermarkets) and squeeze out every last bit of butter. Throw away the
remnants. Stick the butter/water mix in the
freezer until the butter hardens up (but before the water does). Simply
remove the butter and melt it down to pour into
your vessel.
If you're going to simply soak the oil/schwag, I'd pour the entire mixture
into a food processor or maybe a blender after
you've soaked it. That might shake loose some of the THC. If you were picky
you could pick the bud off the stem first
and use the bud/oil processed mix directly in your recipie. Personally,
I wouldn't spread the 1/2 z of schwag out over 2
recipies. I tried this method once and it really didn't work that well.
But hey, that was me...
sorry, i can't give you any exact recipe. Kinda like organics ;)-~.
btw, I don't think Vic would mind, many of us old 'Basers have regathered
at www.overgrow.com Nice place, although
not as robust as the old 'Base. I bet it will be someday, though. Still
working out the kinks. Webby's a moderator too
which is a plus.
take care my friend,
shaggy
TOPIC - Cannabutter or Oil????
DATE - 11:19:42 7/17/99
FROM - Damion
hello everybody how are you? i've gotta start getting ready for this years
woodstock and i was wondering what the
overall recommendation between the two was?
friend has 1/2oz of schwagg bud and intends on making 1 box of brownies
and 1 box of muffins. from what he
understands, oil is make simply by putting shake into the oil bottle for
2 days and allowing the thc to be absorbed by
the oil. then filter it out and use 2x the oil called for in the recipe.
Is this the best way to make oil? Is butter better, and if so does anybody
have a good recipe?
Finally, if oil is the way to go, how much does my friend need to completely
absorb the THC out of 1/2oz? Should I just
soak it in 2x the amount of oil that the recipe calls for?
Thanks again, really appreciate any feedback, Damion
TOPIC - Budm still @ the same email address? I've
DATE - 04:51:45 7/17/99
FROM - wacky1
sent a few messages but no responses,you can contact me @mailcity if you,ve
changed email addy.Regards
wacky1 aka edhassle
TOPIC - grapefruit
DATE - 10:24:29 7/16/99
FROM - Vic High
hey anon, thanks for the note. My one in the mother/clone bench is green,
but so are most of the plants in there. The
purple stemmed GF is the one just finishing up flowering. It was an old
tired mom (about a year old) that I flowered out
to collect some seeds. I totally expected it to have come nutrient imbalances
because the soil is so old. I have been
watering every now and then with the fox farms Big Bloom (higher P). Another
strange thing is this is the first time I've
seen GF do remarkedly well in my garden on all accounts. Yield, aroma,
looks, etc. Usually it is a dog in the yield
dept. Maybe it is just responding to the extra lumens. I don't think I
have a P deficiency, but I think P uptake can be
influenced by other nutrient imbalances, so can see how it would look like
a P feiciency in my situation.
There is bone meal in my soil mix (slow release P) so maybe that is why
my plants respond to 5-1-1 fish ferts so well.
TOPIC - note for vic about purple stemmed grapefruit
DATE - 10:06:53 7/16/99
FROM - anon
hey vic... thought i'd share this with you. i added some peter's 20-20-20
to the feeding cycle of my grapefruit. the purple
stems have mostly disappeared and the growth rate has increased. it looks
like the grapefruit need more phos. than
the 5-1-1 fish emulsion was providing. never had a problem with the sensi
seedbank stuff on 5-1-1 for veg., so it looks
like the grapefruit do use extra phos. hope this helps...
TOPIC - Scientific Music & Plant Growth Study - long
DATE - 07:30:21 7/16/99
FROM - Curious George
About Positive Music
by Don Robertson
The Plant Experiments
In 1973, a woman named Dorothy Retallack published a small book called
The Sound of Music and Plants. Her book
detailed experiments that she had been conducting at the
Colorado Womanís College in Denver using the schoolís three Biotronic Control
Chambers. Mrs. Retallack placed plants in each chamber and speakers through
which she played sounds and
particular styles of music. She watched the plants and recorded their
progress daily. She was astounded at what she discovered.
Her first experiment was to simply play a constant tone. In the first of
the three chambers, she played a steady tone
continuously for eight hours. In the second, she played the tone for three
hours intermittently, and in the third chamber,
she played no tone at all. The plants in the first chamber, with the constant
tone, died within fourteen days. The plants
in the second chamber grew abundantly and were extremely healthy, even
more so than the plants in the third
chamber. This was a very interesting outcome, very similar to the results
that were obtained from experiments
performed by the Muzak Corporation in the early 1940s to determine the
effect of "background music" on factory
workers. When music was played continuously, the workers were more fatigued
and less productive, when played for
several hours only, several times a day, the workers were more productive,
and more alert and attentive than when no
music was played.
For her next experiment, Mrs. Retallack used two chambers (and fresh plants).
She placed radios in each chamber. In
one chamber, the radio was tuned to a local rock station, and in the other
the radio played a station that featured
soothing "middle-of-the-road" music. Only three hours of music was played
in each chamber. On the fifth day, she
began noticing drastic changes. In the chamber with the soothing music,
the plants were growing healthily and their
stems were starting to bend towards the radio! In the rock chamber, half
the plants had small leaves and had grown
gangly, while the others were stunted. After two weeks, the plants in the
soothing-music chamber were uniform in size,
lush and green, and
were leaning between 15 and 20 degrees toward the radio. The plants in
the rock chamber had grown extremely tall
and were drooping, the blooms had faded and the stems were
bending away from the radio. On the sixteenth day, all but a few plants
in the rock chamber were in the last stages of
dying. In the other chamber, the plants were alive, beautiful, and growing
abundantly.
Mrs. Retallackís next experiment was to create a tape of rock music by
Jimi Hendrix, Vanilla Fudge, and Led Zeppelin.
Again, the plants turned away from the music. Thinking maybe it was the
percussion in the rock music that was
causing the plants to lean away from the
speakers, she performed an experiment playing a song that was performed
on steel
drums. The plants in this experiment leaned just slightly away from the
speaker; however not as extremely as did the
plants in the rock chambers. When she performed the experiment again, this
time with the same song played by
strings, the plants bent towards the speaker.
Next Mrs. Retallack tried another experiment again using the three chambers.
In one chamber she played North Indian
classical music performed by sitar and tabla, in another she played Bach
organ music, and in the third, no music was
played. The plants "liked" the North Indian classical music the best. In
both the Bach and sitar chambers, the plants
leaned toward the speakers, but he plants in the Indian music chamber leaned
toward the speakers the most.
She went on to experiment with other types of music. The plants showed
no reaction at all to country and western
music, similarly to those in silent chambers. However, the plants "liked"
the jazz that she played them. She tried an
experiment using rock in one chamber, and "modern" (dischordant) classical
music of negative composers Arnold
Shönberg and Anton Webern in another. The plants in the rock chamber
leaned 30 to 70 degrees away from the
speakers and the plants in the modern classical chamber leaned 10 to 15
degrees away.
I spoke with Mrs. Retallack about her experiments a few years after her
book was published, and at that time I began
performing my own experiments with plants using a wood-frame and clear-plastic-covered
structure that I had built in
my back yard. For one month, I played three-hours-a-day of music from Arnold
Shönbergís negative opera Moses and
Aaron, and for another month I played three-hours-a-day of the positive
music of Palestrina. The effects were clear. The
plants subjected to Shönberg died. The plants that listened to Palestrina
flourished.
In these experiments, albeit basic and not fully scientific, we have the
genesis of a theory of positive and negative
music. What is it that causes the plants to thrive or die, to grow bending
toward a source of sound or away from it?
This article was found at http://www.dovesong.com/positive_music/plant_experiments.asp
Another interesting site offers a book for sale about the subject of music
and plant growth:
http://www.bullnet.co.uk/shops/hydro/music_htm
TOPIC - Cooling Loop
DATE - 04:40:50 7/16/99
FROM - Soul
Loop_~ Yes I'm still there...love to hear from you. It's encouraging that
you've managed to make water-coooling work
with a light mover. The other option I'm considering is using 3 water-cooled
units without the light rail. My current set-up
is two 1000W lights moving together on a linear mover...which may be TOO
much plumbing.
Vic_~ The heat-stressed plants are recovering now that we've had a cool
week. Just as you described, if their
environment improves they DO get better. Sure taught me a lot about what
plants look like when they can't breathe!
Also learned something from the thread @ overgrow.com concerning CO2 enrichment.
nl420_~ HOT DAMN! You really made a great forum there - I like all the "bells & whistles"...heehee. Kudos!
CG_~ I concur. I once saw a clone of my one of my own plants being flowered
at a friend's house. Familiar with what it
SHOULD look like, I was surprised to see he'd manged to "Bonsai" the dammned
thing - despite it being in a LARGER
container than I use. He was growing a 3'x2' closet with no ventilation
except the open closet door...that'll do it.
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:32:13 7/15/99
FROM - greenbear
High Soul,our "buddy" is still free and working his ass off. I hope his
bloodsuckers are better
then their bloodsuckers!!
TOPIC - george
DATE - 18:53:13 7/15/99
FROM - money launderer
no george, but since i am a "cargo cultist", i wash my spare change in
the nutrient teas, hoping for big returns. nothing
definitive yet, hehehe.
on the pot size issue, the size i arrived at for my 1k is 2 gallons (for
comparison, a 6" pot holds about 1/2 gallon), and
using square pots i manage to crowd 16 of them under the lamp. this can
be done because the 1k can be kept 2' from
the plant tops and still provide adequate intensity (i have had no problems
with stretching or loose buds), so i get
decent coverage. btw, blazer mis-attributed that quote below to oldtimer1,
it was actually me that said that, hehe! no
worries blazz old buddy ;-)
greenbear duid, good to see you! hope you're having an "egg-cellent" summer
:-) the gws X grapefruit sounds like it has
great potential ("grape white shark", mmm), and the rom x, too. i'm still
trying to make room in my grow for some seed
starts with the mixed bag you gave me. someday! give my best to our crazy
friend! btw, what did you DO to that cow,
to make her MOO like dat?! ;-)
TOPIC - http://www.earthpulse.com/science/songs.html
DATE - 18:25:24 7/15/99
FROM - C.G.
http://www.earthpulse.com/science/songs.html
Link:
TOPIC - Modern Mozart? More info ...
DATE - 18:20:48 7/15/99
FROM - Curious George
This is one Very interesting article posted at the url shown below. It
seems to go Waaay beyond mearly playing
classical tunes. These dudes are taking it to the outer edges of physical
chemistry and organic physics. I'll look for
more, but wanted to post this before it got lost.
Link:
TOPIC - Oops! Mozart might not be the ticket
DATE - 14:39:40 7/15/99
FROM - Curious George
Well, there we go spouting off again. The brief searches we ran online
didn't anything about the Mozart Effect and it's
effect on plants. There were plenty of sites mentioning it in connection
with human health and learning ability and such,
but nothing on plants. I'll keep looking.
So, I went back to the source and asked the person who ran the mung-bean
tests. It was revealed that the growth
patterns mentioned in my earlier post were misleading since the plants
that were closest to the speakers showed the
biggest effects, and the "scientist" only bothered to graph the most extreme
examples.
So, there might be some positive effect to playing music for the plants,
but it might take substantial volume to make a
difference. Could be a hassle.
The next avenue to search will be what key the music should be in. The
key of G supposedly has a positive effect. I'll
check it out.
Thanks for the feedback on pot size, Blaze,I'll pass it along. Skinman, thanks for the lead on "natural" CD's.
Heck, since we're on an esoteric sort of trip, here's a weird one: Have
any of you, or folks you know of, ever tried to
appease the spirits by burning paper money in the herb patch? Just curious.
TOPIC - Oops! Mozart might not be the ticke.t
DATE - 14:39:29 7/15/99
FROM - Curious George
Well, there we go spouting off again. The brief searches we ran online
didn't anything about the Mozart Effect and it's
effect on plants. There were plenty of sites mentioning it in connection
with human health and learning ability and such,
but nothing on plants. I'll keep looking.
So, I went back to the source and asked the person who ran the mung-bean
tests. It was revealed that the growth
patterns mentioned in my earlier post were misleading since the plants
that were closest to the speakers showed the
biggest effects, and the "scientist" only bothered to graph the most extreme
examples.
So, there might be some positive effect to playing music for the plants,
but it might take substantial volume to make a
difference. Could be a hassle.
The next avenue to search will be what key the music should be in. The
key of G supposedly has a positive effect. I'll
check it out.
Thanks for the feedback on pot size, Blaze,I'll pass it along. Skinman, thanks for the lead on "natural" CD's.
Heck, since we're on an esoteric sort of trip, here's a weird one: Have
any of you, or folks you know of, ever tried to
appease the spirits by burning paper money in the herb patch? Just curious.
TOPIC - Environmental Sounds
DATE - 11:26:07 7/15/99
FROM - Skinman
Curious George - I've always loved the sound of a rainstorm and use "Nature"
disks in my bedside cd/clock/radio for
just such restful endeavors. The Nature Company put out a series in 1988-89
which I think are the best for your sound
experiments. They are dolby so they have good directional sound and are
released through BMI music under Wild
Sancuary Music heading. "Distant Thunder" and "Tropical Jungle" from Bernie
Krause are my favorites and seem to be
just the ticket for your test. If you are interested try writing the following
address:
The Nature Company
P.O. Box 2310
Berkeley CA 94702
CD #s
Distant Thunder: NC-227728
Tropical Jungle: NC-266486
I Let my brother Sub borrow them for a while but there was never a control
group so we really don't know if that helped,
sounds interesting though. Skinman out, but never down!
TOPIC - CuriousG
DATE - 09:59:06 7/15/99
FROM - Blazer
Man that farmer You met is all wet! The differences I've found from starting
w/ 6" baskets up to the 12" self watering
pots, yield went from grams to ounces. I figure these pots hold a good
2 gallons of pellets and a lil extra nutes in the
bottom for a modified nft style grow via drip lines running 24/7. I also
keep less than 10 plants under a 1k at anytime, 8
is ideal IMO @ about 2.5 to 3 foot per plant in hieght. I think Ot1 said
it best, "Bigger roots equal bigger buds...period.".
I share that belief too. When trying to get more than 8-10 plants under
that 1K, I found skinnier plants. Dropped to 8
and topped at the 4th node, I'm getting schrubs now w/ the outter tips
almost equaling the main kola(s) from the
pinching off. Better yield by far in My situation anyhow, BUT like i always
say...So many ways to accomplish damn
near the same thing. I don't see any 1 way being the total package. I started
off w/ a Emily's Garden(water culture) that
held 5 gallons of nute and 6 plants! LOL After trying SEVERAL different
methods, I've found My lil groove I think. You
get the point I'm sure, whatever feels good;)
Blaze
TOPIC - The Mozart Effect
DATE - 09:23:18 7/15/99
FROM - Curious George
Here are the bare-bones of "The Mozart Effect".
If you take three groups of mung beans ( for instance ) and plant each
group in a seperate container, and treat them all
to the same enviormental conditions, except exposure to an hour per day
or more of music, large differences in size
and vigor will be observed depending on what kind of music is being played
for each group of plants.
If one group is the control, given no music, and another is exposed to
hard rock or heavy metal, and the last is exposed
to Mozart, the classically trained mung beans will be markedly larger than
both the control and the hard rock beans.
( A certain slacker HS student we know managed to slip by the annual "science
project" requirement by running that
same experiment for three years in a row, and always got the same results.
The Mozart sprouts grew aprox. 25%
larger than the controls, and 50% bigger than the hard rock sprouts. )
I suspect that one thing missing from indoor grows is the sound of the
wind, the birds, and the insects. Playing some
nice, laid-back classical music for the plants probably substitutes for
the lack of other input on those wavelengths.
Maybe it's related to the same mechanism that triggered the "talk to your
plants" bit from years ago? Who knows?
At any rate, it would be interesting to see someone give it a shot. I'd
be inclined to try two types of sound: one would
be light classical or Mozart, and the other would be an "Enviormental"
tape or CD, those things with the sounds of wind
and birds and stuff. If good records have been kept of a stable grow, improvements
could be accurately measured.
It's probably time to run a Search Engine query on the subject of the Mozart
Effect. I'll do that and report back if any
significant details are available.
Upon further reflection, I suspect that the low yielding indoor hobby grow
I saw was suffering from a lack of sufficient
fresh air circulation and replenishment. It was in a fairly large back
room, with a fan for cooling, but there were no vents
to the outside, just a door leading to the rest of the building. Any concurring
opinions?
TOPIC - split root system
DATE - 09:22:32 7/15/99
FROM - sb
Loop da
I'm very interested in the potential of the split root system. A plastic
vertical divider glued into a pot with a small slit in
the middle/top 1.5" x .5" would allow a clone to be placed between the
two sides(centered) allowing roots to grow to
each side
CG
On the other front, your idea of the perlite surround is interesting as
well....gonna try it?Do you think that the timing of
the partion removal would be important?
KQ
I also like the straw idea, but with a twist.Use larger diameter sticks
(pieces of broomstick possibly) placed in the pot
when planting .After the initial watering the sticks could be removed and
the holes filled with perlite.
TOPIC - If there's a will....
DATE - 08:54:20 7/15/99
FROM - Loop
Soul- I LOVE the toys. Of course my lights move. I use a light rail 3 linear
mover that moves the lamps about 16". I
wouldn't say it's a snap but as long as you secure the hoses in front of
the fittings (so there is no stress directly on the
joint) its not a problem (at least it hasn't been yet). I did make my own
hood because I also have a 400w MH nose to
nose with the water-cooled 1K and my set-up is stadium like so my reflectors
looks upside down like a V instead of a
^. Because of my restricted height situation, I changed the fittings to
a 90 degree elbow instead of straight up.
Language is not really my bag (I'm a visual guy) but I do have some photo's
I could send you that would make it all
clear. A picture worth about 20,000 of my words. Are you still at England?
TOPIC - Very Interesting...
DATE - 04:31:14 7/15/99
FROM - Soul
Loop_~ Thanks for providing all the insight on water-cooled lights. If
not for my insisting on MOVING my lamps over the
plants, they sound excellent for me. I have a water source and sink near
the flowering room that would make cooling a
snap too (dammit).
Greenbear_~ Nice seeing you here too! Is our buddy OK? Out of 75 seedlings
you should find something indicative of
the best the cross is capable of, IMO.
CG_~ Larger containers definitely increase the yield PER PLANT. I was growing
two distinct strains in 6" pots under a
1k indoors & was averaging .75 dry oz/plant. I now use 10" pots and
my average plants are 2 ounces dry. They're more
satisfying too, because the colas are "impressive" sized. Of course one
can't fit the same number of individuals in the
same space using larger containers, so there's a trade-off. Yield per LAMP
is what I go by - It's the REAL bottom-line
in a commercial grow anyway, right? With a 2k HPS&MH set-up on a linear
track, I reliably yield over 2lbs per harvest.
There are many things I could do to maximize yield a bit more, but I'm
satisfied both financially & esthetically by the
method I use...it's not too much work.
OK, I'll bite...what's the Mozart effect?
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:50:39 7/14/99
FROM - loop da loop
With all this talk of hot grow rooms I thought I give a quick (or not so
quick)water-cooled update.
Re: the cost of water-cooled lighting. I was able to reduce flow as low
as 0.4 litres per minute for 2 1000 w bulbs with
the resulting out water temp @ 105F. Since I need maximum cooling (it is
friggin hot here) I increased flow to 0.8 LPM
and water is now 85F therefore my lights are now 85F. With the cost of
water in these parts (southern Ontario) it works
out to be about $8 for both lights per month with the high flow. Considerably
cheaper than AC. My lights on temps
settle between 85- 90 when its really hot (max has been 91.4F at plant
tops). Donít forget my room is in an attic on the
top floor of a tar roof apartment. Iíve got almost 3k light in a 330 cubic
foot box. A few other tricks help with this. I also
have massive (for my size room) air movement using a 500cfm exhaust and
300 cfm intake. My res is located outside
the box and is cooled to 72F which is where my intake fans are located.
This helps cool the in-air as it takes advantage
of the res evaporation. Also I use a high-pressure pump for the aero that
creates a super fine mist that raises up
through the grow rocks. This acts like a cheap (an unplanned)fogger. My
crop has never looked better and I plan to
hook up my co2 next week. Iím a believer.
Vic-I had some clones with pre-flowers that accidentally were pollinated.
The clones where always on 16 hour days and
although they started to form real (little) buds, they went back into veg
fairly quickly. The pollinated pre-flowers formed
seeds that fully matured while continuing to grow.
Also, how did that Chemo work out for you?
Soul-long time no yak. Ya, I love the toys. The organic thing was working
real well for me but after I set up an auto
watering system there wasnít much to do. Got kind of bored and went full
out aero. Defiantly keeps me on my toes
now. My place looks like a refinery with all the plumbing. Almost too much
funÖ.
To whoever is responsible for the new sight (overgrow.com) take a bow. Well done.
CG- When doing the organic thing I had plants that yielded over 2 oz grown
in 8-9 inch pots. OT1 grows in about the
same size container and has huge plants AND tight spacing. I even had a
plant that was about 35 grams grown in a 4î
rockwool cube. Part of it depends if you treat it like dirt or like manually
feed hydro and how much organic matter your
using. Some strains do need a lot of root space though. Kushís seem to
and the romberry seems like a root pig so far.
Vic said his yield sucked when he went to smaller containers so I guess
it really depends on strain and growing style.
Figuring it out is part of the art. Your friends grow sound OK (but not
great) for a 400w set up but does suck for a 1k.
Guess heís not an artist ;-)
Re: splitting the roots. Dr Cooper (the NFT dude) has a hydro system (called
the Ariel) that splits the root system into
two parts. He feeds each side at a different time so there is always ½
the roots in air. He also feeds one side with a
low level of nutrient solution and the other side with a very high level
(up to 3000 ppm). Claims it works great. Hard to
say not knowín.
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:15:22 7/14/99
FROM - greenbear
thats MOON,not Bessie the cow!!!!LOL...
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:08:08 7/14/99
FROM - greenbear
High all! Still kickin'! Hey Vic you played with Grapefruitbefore. I crossed
a GreatWhiteSharkmale
with a Grapefruit clone to help the GWS with taste (its a Superskunk x
WhiteWiddow and its a
great trichome producer,the biggest I've ever seen !BUT the taste and smell
leave a lot of room
for improvement).I got about 75 eggs. Will this number be big enough to
find a few
great(hopefully!) moms? I also crossed the GWS with Romberry f2s and a
JackHerer.
Hello Soul!! Great to see ya !!!! Hope all is supercalafragalistic! ( and
expealadosious!!!)
By the way I got to sample A-13,my host called the high "disturbing" !!
All I can say is WOW!!!
If A-11 is even more so......TO THE MOO
TOPIC - Thanks!
DATE - 21:22:37 7/14/99
FROM - Strider
HEY..! All....... OT 1........ Thanx ! We will see if it works. I am about
as naive on the puter as I am on growing
inside.The plus side is, I'm learning all the time and enjoying it. In
regards to your co2 post. thinking back to last
winter, fan run times varied wiith the outside temp,but were frequent enough
to Keep things cooking. At this point in my
grow my zeal is to grow,grow grow. Only way to really get a handle on what
the needs of my grow/room/plants are and
adjust/change things to meet them. Growing for personal. Idon't have to
grow in summer. but damn it. I want to! I think I
hear that old familar tune.$Ching!$Ching! Ro and softeners...... softened
water has a high sodium content. Seems like I
remember long term use may lock up some nutes/minerals. RO's....don't get
me wrong.I'm not a fanatic. but I do
believe we should all have a sense of stewarship. RO's, at least the ones
I'm familar with, waste a lot of water among
other things. Good clean drinking water is a justification. But plants?
Distilled would be a better choice IMHO. Now!
what to do with these 4 clones that made it.Veg them under low watt floro's
till fall,about 2 mo. for mothers?
TOPIC - Is size all that counts?
DATE - 19:43:30 7/14/99
FROM - Cutious George
As sung by Maria Muldar, "It's Not The Meat, It's The Motion". Is the Process
as important as the size of the yield? Is
the act of growing, the routine and discipline ( or lack thereof ) as important
as the result? How does it affect the grow?
Just curious ...
One thing that's recently come to mind is size of container vs size of
yield paradox. Saw a grow recently, the first
indoor one I've seen in a few years, and was astonished by the small size
of the containers, ( about 6 in.), and the
small diameter of the buds. They were sticky as hell, smelled fine, and
did what was expected when sampled, but they
just didn't look substantial. There were 18 of them under one 1K MH and
yielded less than 1/2 oz. per plant. When
asked about using some larger containers, the farmer indicated that he
hadn't seen an appreciable difference in yield
with larger pots, and fewer plants fit under the light. What gives here?
Given a 1 light situation, probably the most common size of grow, where
do the graphs of container size vs yield vs sq.
feet of lighted area all converge? Do you have to go to 1 or 2 gallon or
even larger sizes before it makes a significant
difference?
The grow in question was a sort of SOG, all from rock-wool clones that
were put directly into a flowering time cycle as
soon as they were transplanted into soil. The strain was supposedly "Big
Bud", but as I said, they sure didn't look very
big.
If it takes Big containers and Lots of lights and Loads of power and everything
else to get substantial indoor yields,
maybe outdoor growing, with all of it's problems, might be better after
all.
Have any of you folks ever attempted to make use of "The Mozart Effect"
during an indoor grow? I suspect that it would
be quite beneficial to make use of that principle, and it would be easy
as pie.
Later ...
TOPIC - Yak Yak Yak (fun, fun, fun)
DATE - 15:26:00 7/14/99
FROM - Soul
Vic_~ I see yours and our esteemed colleague Webby's point! ;) The shorter
days of Spring may allow the plants to be
insensitive to shorter days for the first couple of weeks, but not more
than a month. I know they'll flower - I've flowered
4-week old plants & they don't even hesitate. I agree that it's a GREAT
way to test for hermie tendancies. I know that
you're only doing it to save space - I've juggled plants too, but in the
other direction.
Your comments on forced intakes is right on. I have tried with & without
using inlet fans & it's MUCH better to have
them...even compared to a big passive vent.
Ju_ce71_~ The plants are so small when you root under 12/12 and go immediately
to flower that 12 clones fit in a
"flowerbox" type of container 3'long. There once was a guy growing a perpetual
harvest with that technique...harvested
a flowerbox every week with each clone yielding 10 grams. With the right
strain, I guess that could work...but I've never
seen a good candidate.
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:54:40 7/14/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Cowboy pure water should be ph 7! ph pens can't read very pure water properly,
I suspect you have pure water at ph 7
because at ph 5.6 you would be getting ppm readings on your cf meter.
TOPIC - ju_ce
DATE - 14:12:07 7/14/99
FROM - Cowboy
dude,the brand name is AMPAC wich i believe stands for american pacific
enterprises.go to ebay.com and type in
reverse osmosis and see what it lists for you.as far as the 5.7 ph thing...i
guess someone suggested it be lowered a bit
and the garden seemed to like it ,so it got left there.and whenever i calibrate
the ph pen it seems to be reading .2 or .3
lower than the calibration fluid so i guess it all balances itself out
to some point a little above or a little below 6.0 .are
you measuring PH with a electronic pen or with a kit were you add a few
drops to the solution and check color.the
color check kits have never worked to well for my friend.it seemed to always
show ph at about 7.0......any one know of
a better quality PH pen than a hanna for around the same $,as they seem
to be a little fickle on occasion.
later
TOPIC - Vic/Soul
DATE - 12:25:58 7/14/99
FROM - webfish
Actually on the seed thing ,,if you think about it when do seeds naturaly
germ?Early spring ,April and May the light
hours are not that different from fall hours (about 14 per day)so if you
germ in low hours and increase it shouldent effect
the plants negativly at all... Besides were talking about a weed here he
he he ....
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:17:18 7/14/99
FROM - Vic High
ju_ce71 - I think you misunderstood my reasoning behind my approach. No
fault of yours, my reasons are spread out
over a few posts, haha. Gotta remeber that there is more happening in my
garden than just the seedlings, so I'm not
really trying to speed the developement of the seedlings by starting them
in the 12/12. Its just that the flower room and
the balcony are the only areas available, and balcony isn't an option for
this many seedlings, haha. By using free space
in flower room, the seedlings will be further along when ready to flip
flower room back to veg room, than waiting for room
to be clear before starting the seeds. That's all.
I have always preferred larger plants to smaller ones (to keep numbers
down), so I would not be interested in rooting
clones under 12/12. But that is a personal thing :) I've heard it's a good
technique for those SOG and Scrog growers
growing sativas.
TOPIC - vic, soul seedling push and stuff
DATE - 08:20:01 7/14/99
FROM - ju_ce71
greetings, vic while you would have to go through a veg
cycle sooner or later with seedlings to reach flowering
maturity , would it be make sense to root clones under 12/12
and skip the veg cycle total
TOPIC - oldtime1, cowboy + RO couple?
DATE - 08:07:50 7/14/99
FROM - ju_ce71
greetings, yeah guys i'm not sure what the problem is with
the pH.?is it possible that the water company addss
something that can't be filtered out of the water. The
supermarkets RO don't lower the pH either so I don't think
it's just my unit. Cowboy thats a great deal for a 36gpd RO
machine can you give me brand name.
I currently use ebb&flow, with grow rocks,beans where
started in rockwool that wasn't presoaked to reduce pH. This
hasn't been a problem so far. Right now I target the pH. at
6.0, however I see lots of post where the target is 5.8-5.7
like you mentioned cowboy.
?should I lower my pH. to this lower target range or is 6.0
close enough.
I have several book and posting that suggest a water only
flush just before taking cuttings.
?wouldn't this effect growth just before you start
flowering cycle
?how may days of for this flush period.
g
TOPIC - weird stuff
DATE - 08:02:09 7/14/99
FROM - Vic High
haha, yeah Soul, it's weird, but hell, I'm known for pushing the envelope
on the RULES, haha. But in reality, I don't
think it is too unnatural. Probably, with the more sativa a strain has,
the less unatural it is. Seeds planted in early
spring are often starting under flowering conditions but by the time they
get bigger the daylength has lengthened
enough to not effect them. I think this is what the spring bud crops are
about? I figure worse case scenario is that I
delay going back to 18/6 for too long (waiting for seed crop to mature)
and trigger a hermie gene or two. The only
seedlings in there are the C99 so I'm not too worried. And the crop is
for breeding, so any weaknesses I can expose is
a good thing, IMHO. Anyway, by the time the closet is ready for 18/6 again,
my seedlings will already be in their final 2
gal homes thus saving me about 5-6 weeks of veg (down) time.
I was actually suprised that you are the first to pass comment on this,
that was my third time bringing the technique
up, second time here. I guess I was being too low key about it, hehe.
Already making notes on the ones vulnerable to powdery mildew, I hope a
couple males come through clean. My
original blueberries are still the only strain I have that is powdery mildew
resistant. Both of the other blueberry versions I
have in clone form get nailed by the mildew.
One the heat/ventilation topic, I've been there and feel for you guys.
Location was top floor with tar/gravel roof, duhh.
Soul, I know exactly what you are talking about with respect to soft stems
and bud quality. I did find that a couple extra
weeks of flowering under lower temps provided me with a product that was
at least useable. Also I found that plant
plant's use of water severly dropped off and I got worried about root rot,
so I used H2O2 in the water. About 10% still
died. What was interesting was that the plants furthest from lights suffered
the worse.
I had airflow coming out of my ying yang. Intake pressure was most important
to me, passive air intake just didn't cut
it. During heat of summer I finally settled on an airconditioner for each
3 light suncircle. Exhaust was 1400cfm variable
speed blower, and intake was 1200cfm. That intake had power!! with it I
didn't reall need any oscilating fans, haha. It
had no drag or push resistance to deal with, just had to move air through
a wall. Exhaust had to push air 20 feet max in
a 10" duct.
Many growers over estimate the effectiveness of their fans/blowers at pushing/pulling
air long distances in small tubing
like the 4" and 6" types. Like the dayton can pull a tremendous amount
of air volume, but add some resistance or ask
it to push air and it peters right out. And they don't think enough about
the intake volume either. I can't stress enough
how important the intake volume is at controlling temps, and it's cheaper
to operate than an airconditioner. sorry I can't
offer specific engineering guidlines, I just tend to go with what feels
right which often involves some hit and miss, right
Jay?
TOPIC - You do WHAT?
DATE - 04:45:38 7/14/99
FROM - Soul
Vic_~ Damn...I didn't think you'd say YES! That's pretty weird. A seedling
starting out life under 12/12 is VERY
unnatural. Kinda like if a seed fell from a mature, seeded plant and hit
the ground and germinated in Autumn. I can't
help thinking it must be damned confusing for them...but if you say it
works.
Well I guess you're about 7 years younger than me (I'm 40). I believe Rubik's
Cube came out in 1980. I can still solve it!
Originally, I trained myself to be able to do it STONED, so I'd never forget.
SB_~ You're so nice, thanks. Your mention of the hash oil reminds me -
I've been harvesting seeds lately (in big Q's). I
rub the heavily-seeded buds between my fingers 'til they're broken down
into shake, then separate all the mature seeds
from the trash (the leftover bud material is great for rolling joints).
A major "fringe benefit" is rolling hash balls from the
residues on my fingers! They look like Nepalese Temple Balls. It's KILLER.
Buds from one 2.5-foot-tall plant makes a
hash ball about the size of a standard marble, just under an ounce of shake
and about 500 beans.
Curious George_~ Pleased to make YOUR aquaintance - I've been lurking for
months watching the show! I like your
style...guess there's one (or more ;) in every crowd. LOL!
Give 'em hell!
Oldtimer1_~ Blow me down! That's a great yield from a single plant in such
tight conditions! Good show mate. I have a
couple of C99 which I am keeping as mums. One's extremely resinous with
a "scary" high (I wrote you about it) - the
other is a bigger yielding plant but also killer smoke. I can't wait to
get some decent growing conditions established to
really see their true potential, but the heat during flowering weeks 4&5
really took the wind out the current crop's sails.
I'm going to invest more in climate control over the next few months...your
comments on air exchange really helped -
ta!
TOPIC - ju_ce
DATE - 02:56:57 7/14/99
FROM - Cowboy
my 5 stage 36 gpd R O under the sink filter system cost 225 bucks
it takes the ph from 7.8 to 5.8 or 5.7,wich is where my friends garden
likes the ph anyway.i bought it at e bay.it takes
ppms to basically nothing.
later
but i did see similar units at loews(home depot type stores)
TOPIC -
DATE - 02:03:50 7/14/99
FROM - oldtimer1
ju_ce71 Strange the ph still being high, my Ro system has a pre activated
carbon / silver filter and a mixed bed cation
resin post filter. The output water is ph 7 and conductivity 0.00 uS. All
Ro units here in the uk seem to come with filters
as well as the membrane and if it was to be used for drinking an additional
carbon post filter would be added.
TOPIC - Wacky1 RO
DATE - 22:01:51 7/13/99
FROM - ju_ce71
Greetings Wacky, I hope you are enjoying good health and
peace of mind. Wacky you ask a question which as also been
raised at other boards. I have an RO system that does a
great job at reducing the ppm from 240ppm to 10ppm but it
does nothing to reduce the ph which is 8.0-8.5. The RO at
the local supermarkets reduce ppm, but also don't do a thing
about the high pH. Some people report however that there
RO's do reduce pH, and that Brita and Pur filters also
reduce pH. In summary my RO does not reduce pH.? if anybody
good tell me how a brita or pur filter could reduce pH i
would love t
TOPIC - sorry
DATE - 21:01:05 7/13/99
FROM - pi
i currently use (1)vaporizer body in my 2500 sgft room and it increased
my nomimal room humidity from 60% to 70%. i
believe i would see approximately a 10% rise for each unit i add sooo if
i wanted a target of 90% humidity i would need
3 units.
even if you only need one unit you can still switch to a larger reservoir
and float assembly in order go longer between
fillings.
TOPIC - humidifier suggestion
DATE - 20:48:23 7/13/99
FROM - pi
the cool mist type humidifiers and the ultrasonic humidifiers are designed
for about 60% humidity. i tried one in my
grow and it helped but it never got much more than 60% and i was having
to refill the thing every day.
i suppose they would get the humidity into the 80% range if you bought
enuf of them. the cost of multiple units and the
constant filling would drive me NUTS.....
for about $25 you make a humidifier with a large resevoir that will kick assssssss.
needed....
-(1) large reseroir say 20 gal............ $7
-(3) vix vpaorizers 1 gal size for about.. $18
-(1) sheet misc styrofoam to suit......... $1
1.) fill up one of the vaporizers to full and mark the high water mark
on the vaporizer body
2.) mark all three vaporizer bodies high water mark.
3.) take your piece of styrofoam and cut 3 holes the same diameter as your
vaporizer body.
4.) assembly all 3 vaporizers into the float
5.) fill reseroir with water and add a little chlorine bleach to prevent
beasties
5.) place float assy in water and adjust position of float on vaporizer
bodies so that the 3 high water marks are just
above the water line.
note that the reservoir size, the # of vaporizer bodies you need and the
size of stryofoam is all dependant on your own
room size, brand of components etc.
TOPIC - rubick's cube
DATE - 20:22:03 7/13/99
FROM - Vic High
Hey I remember those things. Due to our age difference, I was solving it
in grade 8, haha. I was one of those kids who
survived one of the toughest schools in BC by being friends with a jock
who needed help making the grade, if you know
what I mean ;-)
TOPIC - Soul Vegging
DATE - 19:18:41 7/13/99
FROM - Vic High
Soul - you got it, I often start seedlings in the flower room if that is
what logistics dictate. I found it doesn't effect them
negatively as long as I can flip them back to veg before they mature too
far. Yes it tends to slow down the veg growing,
but if that is the only space available, what the hell. Still get a jump
on things rather than waiting for the flower crop to
finish. Hence my original question about getting seeds to mature in the
seed crop. I think I only have a week left before
I will have to flip the seedlings back to veg. But some of the seed crop
won't be ready yet. I think the romulans have
another three to go. Was just curious if anyone had much experience trying
to mature seeds while under a veg light
cycle. Pollination is already complete. Maybe if I start slowly shortening
the dark period, I can buy an extra week. I
topped the three earliest C99 males last night to slow them down. The triploid
is a male, btw.
TOPIC - Root Air - Volume II - Long Post
DATE - 18:23:28 7/13/99
FROM - Curious George
KQ - CapChron - soul - sb & Vic:
The straws could work, let us know if you try it ... and the pull out plastic
partition with a transplant also makes some
sence.
The humidity bit couldn't hurt if the temp. can be kept under control.
There are several inexpensive electric humidifiers
available at discount stores that can really pump out the fog. They can
go full tilt for over a day before needing a refill.
The coiled plastic tubing is another good idea. Though the air holes might
get clogged, the air pressure might help keep
them open.
Who knows? Well worth a try.
I've been working on this "Air to the Roots" thing for the last few days.
My brain has been a bubbling cauldron of brilliant
ideas, astonsihing insights, and earth-shaking flashes of cosmic enlightenment.
Unfortunately, when the Fickle Finger of Fate came down from the clouds
over Mt. Olympus and revealed the solution
to the air-root question floating in a bottle of Swinkles Beer, it was
not accompanied by a set of winning Lottery
numbers.
At any rate, here is the methodology :
We'll assume that the soil mix is fairly light to begin with, something
along the lines of Vic's Mix. This should have
enough air and loosness to support good root growth for at least several
weeks before it begins to get compacted.
About the time the roots hit the container wall, the soil in the rest of
the container is holding less and less air due to
compacting and as the root ball fills-in, some air starts to enter from
the sides of the container.
So, how do we take advantage of the roots behavior? Well, for one thing,
we can artificially enlarge the container, at
least from the plant's perspective. The trick is to find accordian-folded
plastic sheeting. The folds of the plastic add up
to a much larger surface area for the roots to grow over and around. Like
having container with 40% larger diameter.
The size of the folds in the plastic, and the softness of the sheeting,
would determine whether it could be bent around a
circular container. Three pieces should be used, overlapped at the edges,
so they can be easily removed without
harming the plant. On a square container, four pieces are used.
OK, that much should get us to the point of having greater root mass at
the time when the plant is expected to be at
it's best, right in the middle of budding-up.
What's next? Dig it: If the folds in the plastic are 1/4 inch or more wide,
and the inside edge is filled with a mat of roots,
the space Between the Outside of the plastic accordian and the Inside of
the container is where the action is. Take a
piece of paper and fashion a small funnel, pour pearlite pellets down and
fill up each of the little triangular shafts around
the plant, and then pull out the plastic sheet. This should leave this
very large mass of roots surrounded by the most
airy of growing mediums. The air advantage of hydro seem to be available
to soil grown herb at the very time that the
plant needs it the most.
This should work in even the smallest containers, and actually might be better in square rather than round ones.
If plastic sheeting can't be found, cheap folding window blinds could be cut-up, and should have good durability.
This method is low-tech, requires no pump or other electric aparatus, and
if combined with aerated water feedings,
could mark a major improvement in the art and science of home growing.
Whew ... pass the joint!
TOPIC - KQ and all this damn hash oil.HAHAHA
DATE - 16:00:48 7/13/99
FROM - sb
Seems "someone" better left unmentioned posted a super simple hash-oil
extraction method and I've been pretty
stoned since..LOL
So were you referrring to the possibility of having the bulk of the root
sys travel between two distinct and therefore
independantly controllable zones as opposed to a simple split system (with
a divider)?
Let me know the parameters of your test and I'll try to duplicate them
here, although in small numbers
Soul
I really enjoyed the apollo and genius.Very nice indeed
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:38:00 7/13/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Soul sorry i misread your post C99 number 7 is a definite keeper.
TOPIC -
DATE - 15:34:05 7/13/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Soul it produced 52.5 g of tight bud at 72 days on 12 hrs, at two plants
per sq ft that is pretty dam good. Keeper it
depends on a couple of months curing, but I tend to like oddities if you
get what I mean.
TOPIC - Old Friends
DATE - 12:44:32 7/13/99
FROM - Soul
OT1_~ Thanks for the A/C info...I'm really seing nasty effects from low
CO2 and high temps in this new place durring
summer. I may have to buy a CO2 generator, dehumidifier and A/C in order
to handle all the seasons here.
Thanks also for reminding me about that anonmolous P75/Bro. No, I've never
seen one like that! How did it end up? Did
you like any well enough to keep?
Rubik's Cube was the most powerful influence on my becoming an engineer
- when I figured that thing out @ 20 yrs
old, I decided I should go to college...up 'til then I wasn't interested
in higher education. Thank you Mr.Rubik!
Strider_~ Thanks...I try to be consise & clear. Glad someone appreciates it.
Fatboy_~ Only about 500 A13 seeds were created, thinking that C99 was the
REAL focus, and they sold out in a
month or two. Hardly a week passes since then that someone doesn't ask
for more. There's a new Apollo, which will be
available from HS in a week or so.
Loop_~ Nice to cya, I missed ya dude! You seem to have some pretty cool toys.
Blazer_~ Just joshin' - as you KNOW! I wonder if you're aware of Lance Armstrong? He's doing y'all (Texans) proud!
KQ_~ High old buddy! You're quite right, the rods won't work if you insist
on perforations (I can just picture you
"operating" on the straws with a pin). I was thinking of them as "space-holders"
to be removed once the roots had been
fully established, leaving air channels behind. BTW, you have too much
free time on your hands if you can think of
goofy shit like that...LOL! ;-)_~
Vic_~ You're confusing me. Are you smoking your own shit again?
First you posted:
"Incidently, the C99 seedlings are also in the flower room due to space
limitations, and bad weather outside. They are
mostly between 7 and eight sets of leaves, and still no preflowers with
the exception of one male and one female. They
are now at the stage where they have slowed upward growth and are filling
out."
Then you posted:
"Anyway, I have no desire to flower the C99 for another month or so, I
kinda want to get to know them first and allow
them to become quite mature. Kinda walking a fine line here trying to maximize
seed developement while keepng C99
in veg mode."
VIC! Which is it? You're NOT vegging them in your flowering room, are you?
Heehee!
TOPIC - strawberry blonde
DATE - 09:29:31 7/13/99
FROM - flwr smkr
anyone know what was crossed with what to create this,or at least what
is the rumor.tia
TOPIC - follow up on lights for Nugget
DATE - 07:42:50 7/13/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower
The 4, 600watt hps lights will make you a kick ass flowering room. 600
hps are very efficient and bright without
concentrating too much in one place (light or heat). They last a longer
time than MH and are more efficient than MH
except for in the gro stage and I like some MH in flowering room for plants
just moved there to go under first. The veg
growth is best and healthiest under MH. The leaves are large and dark green,
while under just sodium light alone for veg
is not entirely complete as it needs more blue spectrum for maximum leaf
growth. You are growing under sodium, try
adding florescent light to it for some blue in growth but a 400 MH would
work for you too.
It sounds like your plants will need to be about 11/2 ft tall before they
will be tall enough for your flower room, they will
reach up until close enough then will get excellent crop I bet. Good Harvest
to you!!
BushyOlderGrower
TOPIC -
DATE - 01:05:05 7/13/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Strider air exchange plays a bigger part in good yield than most people
think! I have a room 1625 cu ft within that room
is my grow area an 8 x 4 bed x 10 ft high 320 cu ft. My input fan is 1200
cu ft a min at low level in the main room, the
extract 1680 cu ft a min at high level in the grow area making a complete
air change every 2 min taking into account
the room resistance and the thickness of the walls and ducting length.
The co2 level stays the same as the input air.
Growth slows exponentially to a stop as co2 levels drop, co2 levels drop
to near zero in my room in under 30 min so
were it just the grow area the co2 would be gone in 6 / 7 mins. So your
plants will not be using any of the light you are
giving them or growing for 25 min or 1 hr of the fan off time. You will
tend to get very light yields and skimpy loose buds.
It sounds like it would be better if you only grow indoors in the cooler
months.
If your house has full aircon matters could be improved by drawing your
input from the inside air as co2 levels can be
quite elevated where people are breathing, it would be cool, the lighting
could be run at night when people are sleeping.
Hope this helps a bit. Ot1
write in you wp and drag drop it!
TOPIC -
DATE - 23:19:01 7/12/99
FROM - KQ
SB ! I can see you've been toying with root theories as well. Very interesting
ideas you have there. The spiral perforated
tube *might* get filled with roots. The concept is the same as my perforated
straws, but the straws are easier to
remove, leaving a hollow place. I gonna implement some of this on my next
cycle.
Man, I want some of what your tokin! Split root system?!? Highly interesting.
you could leach one side and feed the
other. Then a week later swap them. Or you could do experiements with leaving
one side bone dry after root invasion
and watering the other side. Try using glucose and citric acid on one side
and hydro or organic nutes on the other.
If you had a partition all the way up and down the pot with the plant seeded
next to the partition, you could leave a dime
size hole in the exact middle of the partition for roots to channel thru
and invade the other side. This kind of setup may
be entirely different than just dividing the roots into two areas as the
far roots of this method would have to pass nutes
thru the planted side before going to the rest of the vasculature.
CG, you got any ideas on this stuff?
TOPIC - aerocloner tips
DATE - 22:34:00 7/12/99
FROM - old hand
water striders are cool creatures.bottom of cuttings must stay in total
darkness if light gets in it doesnt work to
good.dont even look at them for 3to5 days.if tops wilt not enough humidity
or to much heat,put something over them to
hold humidity, if still not enough humidity drill small holes in corners
of lid.foam rubber makes good material to hold
cuttings make sure its thick enough light doesnt penetrate and large enough
to hold cuttings uprite,just rip or cut when
ready.clean aerocloner well between uses.if stems callous but no roots,
place them in dirt and treat like a regular
cutting, no rooting powder.if leaves yellow do the same,some will die some
may make it.cuttings seem to like
florescent grow tubes.trying to be less blunt
TOPIC - Lighting setup
DATE - 21:38:59 7/12/99
FROM - Nugget
Thanks for the info Bushy Older Grower.
I can easily raise the pots so the top of the pot is 130cm from the lights
is this close enough? The globes I'm using are
the Lucagrow 600 WATT globes (lu600/ho/t/40/l) from GE lighting. I've got
nothing to compare them with does anyone
know of these globes? The globe is rated at up to 28,500 hours of use is
that bad/good/normal? You recomended MH
lamps for grow what advantages does that have (not in terms of the light
spectrum but actual physical differences in the
plants or efficiency etc)?
TOPIC - KQ
DATE - 20:41:40 7/12/99
FROM - sb
An after-thought;
What would be the net effect if a plants roots were effectively split,
with approximately half of the root mass in each of 2
sides of a planter and fed alternately?
TOPIC - formating post text.
DATE - 20:19:05 7/12/99
FROM - Strider
Would one of You kind souls tell me why my posts don't show up the way
I format them ? Spaces..paragraphs..ect.
makes for a lot easier reading with a break or two. Thanks.
TOPIC - Thanks
DATE - 19:58:43 7/12/99
FROM - Strider
Vic...! I have visited your cloning page several times. Along with every
other post and page I could find. Its the lab part
of this growing course I'm struggling with. Thanks to All..for the effort
to help me. MR SOUL..... I too, am interested in a
good air/co2 exchage schedual for an ac application. I had to laugh at
my self.ha ha. You said in a sentance what took
me a whole page to say. Obviously I havent masterd that Art. Maybe I ought
to change my handle to ramblin Man. ha
ha. OT1........ Not the news/reality I hoped to hear. Would I be right
in thinking that, in a small 210 cft volume room the
frequency of venting would need to be increased or basicly constant. Gets
100+ here. So, based on my fan ratings,
untill I can afford a co2 set up, I will vent every 30 min to 1hr for 5min
and see how the electric bill looks and what
results/quality I get from the grow.Thanks for the info... Strider.
TOPIC - KQ...RAM-AIR IV hotrod pot
DATE - 19:49:52 7/12/99
FROM - sb
Hey Bud
I am still enjoying that EM...good food for thought.
I've been contemplating the idea of forced airflow to the root system.With
a nice loose mix, I figure that a coiled,
perforated piece of poly tubing laid in during planting could very well
work .My assumption is that feeding intervals
would shorten as nutrient uptake increased, moving a bio system a step
closer to hydro.
Currently I'm playing with a bubbleing perlite bed for clones which I see
as a similar venture.I'll report on the results in a
week or two.
TOPIC - weedbase replacement
DATE - 18:58:11 7/12/99
FROM - pi
http://www.overgrow.com
help us make it a success. thanks
TOPIC - i need 2 more primo strains. help!
DATE - 18:40:43 7/12/99
FROM - fatboy
howdy all, i would appreciate suggestions!
i've gotten a hold of cindy 88 and apollo 13. i've tried them both in various stages of flowering.
Although the cindy is lovely, I like the apollo stony buzz the best.
i'm looking for a couple of strains. i want as much variety in my private
life as possible.
i've always loved the hawaiian from the 70's...the smell...the look...THE
BUZZZZZ...:)
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
thank you.
smokinapolloandlovinher :)
TOPIC - reverse osmosic
DATE - 14:23:44 7/12/99
FROM - wacky1
Thanks for the info Irish and oldtimer I'll check out the spectrapure maxpure
system looks like it would work nicely.
wacky1
TOPIC - correction
DATE - 13:48:43 7/12/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower (oops)
that is 30 watts per sq ft or higher in flower room maybe 50. Oh and ys
2400 hps is a lot of light still is too high up for
short plants, keep well lit.
BushyOlderGrower. PEACE
TOPIC - Nuggets question about set up
DATE - 13:43:19 7/12/99
FROM - BushyOlderGrower
Ok I bet your plants are too close now in the cupboard if leaves curling,
heat stress is high in that small a space should
have at least 12 inches away and temp below 90. Your new room sounds cool
but you have a big space to light all on
1800 watts, you will need to raise the crop a lot at first and lots of
vertical height is not desired as the plants wont get
enough light down further and will require second harvest or just waste
time. I think you have plenty of headroom and
just venting the heat out would be easy. Plants should be 1 to 3 ft from
a 600 hps. #0 watts per sq ft. is needed and I
like more light than that and you should use MH in gro room, flower with
all sodium or 2 sodiums to 1 mh. Conversion
bulbs are available for both kinds of ballasts. You can gro a lot with
that flowering room. You seem to have light far
enough away so check temp if that is ok may be a deficiency. If to far
away the internodal spaces will be longer yes
and yeild wont be better than if you had fully lit. Good Luck with your
room.
BushyOlderGrower.
TOPIC - wacky ed h...
DATE - 13:32:16 7/12/99
FROM - irish
reverse osmosis/ DI water from spectrapure:
8.5 pH from the tap at room temp.
after filtering:
6.5 room temp.
those house ones are nice, but they are still $200-300 us and only get
you 9-20 gallons per day. for $300 US you can
get a much better and more efficient one. the top'o'the line "spectraplus"
(160 to 300+ gal per day)
is about $550
www.spectrapure.com
they are in arizona.
Link: spectrapure water filtration
TOPIC -
DATE - 13:24:18 7/12/99
FROM - oldtimer1
Hi there wacky1 The best thing to do is to put a water softener on your
incoming water supply this will get rid of the
bicarbonates ie makes your water soft. You need to do this in hard water
areas as the bicarbonates will reduce the Ro
membrane life to a year or two against 10 years + with soft water. Using
this system increased our yields by about
20%. Hope this helps.
Hi Soul you never answered the Q for you I posted below[DATE - 12:57:15 6/18/99].
I reckon the quickest way to do the cube is to take it to bits and reassemble
about 30 seconds or less its called lateral
cheating hehe.
If you want to run 4 hrs between complete air exchange which is a lot longer
than recommended you could do with a
parts per million co2 reader controller because running at 65 w per sq
ft the plants will use most the co2 in 7 to 10
mins. For a near natural growth pattern, air con parameters should be programmed
off at 70 f on at 80 f and co2 on at
300 ppm off at 400 ppm, this will give you close to the results of changing
all the air in the room every 2 minutes or
less. To grow at 90 f off and 95 f on with the air con the ppm for co2
need to cycle between 1300 and 1500 ppm this
makes a saving on the air con consumption. We tried taking the co2 up to
2000 ppm and it just cost gas no
improvement, above 95 the plants just seem to stop growing. Being a lot
colder here an air con is hardly necessary we
think that the best quality puff is produced by having fast air exchange
sorry i cant help more.
Oh yes nice to see you and I just put that project under way today.
All the best Ot1.
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:21:28 7/12/99
FROM - KQ
Soul nice to see ya--mon, thought you were dead or something! But I truley
understand, pal, believe me. There is no
book written on what you have mastered, but you are still free. BTW, got
any flowering schedules in mind?!? My last
cannister had an overgrowth of fungi. Feel free to write me anytime, anywhere.
Rubiks cube? of course I cannot solve one--I'm always too busy visualizing
dirt and straws! Solid cylinders would work
nicely if ya didn't want any perforations to supply 02 while the roots
were filling in. I do plan to try chunks of broomstick
one day soon, but for a slightly different purpose. PVC pipe is cheap and
fun to work with as well. I've played around
with fabricating plastic dividers in planters. Then planting on each side
of said divider. Then, when they get bigger, just
transplant to another pot the same size but only one per. Then fill the
empty side with new soil. Man, they love this
treatment and take over that new soil with gusto. Can be handy during flowering.
No transplant shock whatsoever!
TOPIC - Cool
DATE - 10:57:42 7/12/99
FROM - Soul
KQ_~ Just out of curiousity, can you solve a Rubik's Cube? If so, what's
your fastest time? Anything under two
minutes is excellent IMO.
You're right about perlite - it's pumice.
The straws don't need to be hollow - solid rods would work too. {"8^)_~
Anyone using A/C want to advise me on the best way to coordinate venting to maximize the cooling effect of the A/C?
Seems to me: You should suck all the air out of the room; it's refilled
by warmer air entering from an outside source via
an inlet fan. The room will need A/C on max following the evauation period
which equals the volume of the room divided
by the CFM of the exhaust fan, multiplied by two for good measure ;-) until
the desired temp is achieved. The plant's
atmosphere should be refreshed about every 4 hours during lights-on &
just enough to control humidity during dark
hours. Correct?
TOPIC - Reverse Osmosic
DATE - 06:08:38 7/12/99
FROM - wacky1
Greetings,I,d been thinking about purchasing a reverse osmosic system to
eliminate the chlorine and hardwater
problem in my water supply ph 8.0-8.5,Will the reverse osmosic reduce my
ph level down to a acceptable level 6.5-7.0
or will I still have to use a ph reducer to adjust my ph level.The system
will be use for drinking water as well am think
about the kind that mount under the sink.Any advice or recommendations
are appreciated.tia
wacky1 aka edhassle
TOPIC - aero clones...min soil shock?
DATE - 22:18:02 7/11/99
FROM - nada
I have one of thouse cheap aero clone boxes I built via 10K...one I got
the little things under controll it worked really
well. The only thing I was weiry of were the long aero roots going right
into a castings/v/p medium...the much read
about soil shock.
Was thinking about this...rather than placing the cuts into small holes
on the lid of the box...cut 1x1 squares in the lid
to hold a RW/Oasis cube which the cut is then placed into. Adjust the water
level so that the cube sits on the VERY
TOP level of the water..and follow earlier sucessful parameters.
Anyone think that the rooting process will be the same as w/out the cube,
and if so...by using a cube the shock of
transplanting of the cuts into the medium would be minimized? Suggestions
appreciated-
TOPIC -
DATE - 22:12:48 7/11/99
FROM - KQ
Dont like that one? Okay, then just cut the straws so the go from the bottom
of the soil pot to about an inch under the
surface of the dirt. Then when things are grown tightly, tap the rootball
out of the pot and remove straws. Just another
variation. The previous example would allow water to run down the holes
when straws are removed. The above example
would have an inch of root laden soil to disperse water before it hit the
air channels. More food for thought.
Irish, You must be thinking of the polymer crytals that swell and contract
according to moisture content. Perlite is fairly
rigid stuff. Interesting concept anyway! I've always found that the more
non-soil stuff I add (perlite) the more
temperamental the mix seems to be. The maximum non-soil in this case would
be 100% perlite, now you're talking
hydro which can be alot more temperamental than soil mixes!
TOPIC - Message for CG
DATE - 22:04:33 7/11/99
FROM - KQ
Curious George, you really are an innovative person! Here is something
I've toyed with in the past but never done
anything about it-- Put plastic disposable drinking straws (perforated
if you need to) into the dirt when loading the pot.
Maybe 10 or 20 of them that span from the bottom to just above the lip
of the pot. When the roots are all holding the
dirt together tightly, just pull the straws out and their are your air
channels. If they are perforated with small holes then
you might rip a few small roots anytime you remove them. But why remove
them at all if you have enuff holes in them?
Like I said, I never have done this, but it does sound interesting!
TOPIC - isn't that what perlite is for?
DATE - 22:00:37 7/11/99
FROM - irish
when the perlite touches water it swells, right?
then, as it dries, the space created in the soil by the shrinking perlite
fills with air due to a vacuum effect, thus
"pumping" air in and down to the roots.
or were you guys talking pure o2??
TOPIC - Pumping air to the roots
DATE - 21:37:43 7/11/99
FROM - Capn Chronic
It's my thinking that if you also humidify the air with a real nice humidifier
that also partially warms the air. The roots
would respond much better at the same time the warm air high humidity conditions
while feeding extra o2 would also
help microbes to thrive. Producing ideal conditions in a all organic mixes.
Does this sound right or am I talkin out of my
ass?
TOPIC - Pumping Air to the Roots?
DATE - 20:11:48 7/11/99
FROM - Curious George
Why can't extra O2 be provided to plant roots in a soil container via a
pump? If a system of plastic hoses was installed
near the bottom of a container, and the air was warmed to just over the
temp. of the room, would the air rise inside the
container and help the roots?
Maybe the tubes could be placed around the edges of the container, so the
roots get to the extra O2 at the same time
they "hit the wall".
If the soil mixture was sufficiently loose, why wouldn't it work? Or would it even be worth the trouble?
Just Curious ... ?
TOPIC - aero rooting.....
DATE - 16:41:27 7/11/99
FROM - irish
"if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need...."
aero rooting, ~shabang~ "sprinkler style", where the water is aeroponically sprayed onto the dangling cuts.
you will find (as 10k said) "hot" or "dry" spots. where the sprayers don't
reach. those have to be dealt with or the holes
accordingly plugged. my little buddy uses one tablespoon of all three GH
nutes in a five gallon container, pH balanced.
he usually sees roots in about 3-5 days (sometimes as many as seven). he
started out taking the rooted cuts (1/2 to 1
inch long white spikes) and placing them directly into grorox, (red clay
pellets). he lost a lot of them, found he needed
to keep them in higher humidity.
he started to place the big clear plastic picnic cups over the cuts, spraying
the inside with plain water to increase
humidity.
this would still take two weeks or so to even see a recovery of the babies.
now, aero rooting 3-5 days, until bumps show, water cycle half hour on,
1 hour off (colder weather 1 1/2 hour spacing
was used a few times per 24 hour cycle, due to a mushy cut problem). then
placed in oasis cubes (the crumbly ones)
cubes are soaked in the same water inside the aero reservoir. then placed
into the appropriate hydro basket (1" or 4")
then inside a short wide "picnic" cup with a taller narrower "picnic" cup
on top, so he has a full tray of mini green
houses. all of these are in a plastic nursery tray.
if he is doing a lot, he will use the premade "greenhouse tops" that can
be purchased with the trays. he does this
without the extra "picnic" cups on the bottom and just fills the tray up
at the bottom with water (changed every two
days).
both section of this system (cloner and rooting clones) are sitting on top of a heating mat made for seedlings.
he does the sort of Vic maneuver and just sprays them when he feels like it, once or twice a day maybe.
he has told me that his northern lights variety roots like crazy but takes
a while to actually grow anything, while his big
bud x shiva skunk (BG's Green Giant) will be tough to see any actual roots
out of the oasis cubes but grows amazingly
fast. when roots finally appear they are like santa's beard thick and white
and everywhere.
he has also put them directly from the cloner into his nft setup (fed six
to seven times daily / about a three and a half
hour spacing) with the mini cups above them and had great results (with
rocks and with cubes, better with cubes and
less watering than with the rocks and more watering)
what was i saying?... basically, all plants will react different, just
pay some attention to them, not too much. if they wilt
put a cover over them to increase humidity. if they yellow add some nutes
to the water, if they aren't growing, maybe
too much water/drowning them or time to take off the cover for a while
and get some fresh air in there.
if you would like more info, he also did some rockwool clones, some verm/per
clones, some wormcasting/verm/per
clones, and has results from that. but i am tired of typing.
all using the same method and all came out great, in fact better methods
with ver/per in cups than the nft stuff.
TOPIC - aero cloner
DATE - 15:47:36 7/11/99
FROM - chronic man
On the subject of aero cloners, it makes me shudder...hehe I've fiddled
and fussed with that damned thing for quite a
while, to no avail. I tried all different heights of the water, different
temperatures, different spray cycles, everything. One
thing I just noticed though, my PH pen was out of calibration. Way off.
I discovered that the distilled water that I was
using was at about 8.7-9.0. Gee..do ya think that could be it??? Well,
I'm gonna try it again, and this time I'll try to get
the PH just a little lower. I know this thing has to work, I have a friend
that uses it, so I know it works. One thing
though, he says it takes 3-4 days for the plants to get accustomed to the
soil. So I guess it would still be faster than
the perlite/vermiculite mixture I've used in the past.
(5+3to4=8 to 9 days, compared to 10-14 days in the per/verm
mixture) plus it sure would be easier to just snip a clone, drop it in
the cloner, and wait for 5 days, compared to other
methods, which can be messy and time consuming.
Anyways, I'll let you know how it works this time. Some of the things suggested
to me were, the clones were getting
too much water, only distilled water should be used, (maybe some superthrive),
and the temp was off. I guess it should
be around 78 degrees. Although I'm not sure if this is a big factor. Also
someone asked me if my PH was off. Of course
I said to myself "Seems OK.." DUH
Good luck, and like I said earlier, I know this thing works great. It's
just a matter of gettin it down.
cHrOnIc man
TOPIC -
DATE - 10:07:46 7/11/99
FROM - Vic High
Hey strider, I usually ignore my clones, regardless of media, until I see
new growth. New growth usually means they
are rooted for me. Here's a link to my cloning page - I'm not sure what
else I can add to it.
As for your electrical, I'm going to have read it again, my brain needs
more coffee because it didn't catch what you
were saying the first time, haha.
TOPIC - Message below
DATE - 09:40:46 7/11/99
FROM - Nugget
Just to clarfiy that last message a bit (sorry it's late)I'm basically
worried about whether having the plants that far from
the lights in my new room will drastically increase the internodal length
(it is possible to raise the plants a foot or so).
Also help with the cupboard setup would be appreciated (additionally I
forgot to mention that the plants in the cupboard
were reasonally big, ready to change to flowering cycle).
TOPIC - Fixed lighting system
DATE - 09:16:46 7/11/99
FROM - Nugget
I'm currently rebuilding my setup into something a bit more permanent.
Basically it's now a sealed room made of
treated wood (with white laminate covering or white paint) measuring 10
x 4 feet at the base and reaching 7 feet 2
inches high. I want to mount the lighting on top of the roof as this allows
for more height, allows for an easier light
cooling method and keeps the room free of clutter. However this will mean
that I will not be able to raise and lower the
lights. I'm using four 600w hps, C02 enrichment (bottle fed), and a run
to waste system to grow three plants (effectively
the legal limit)with a minimum expectation of 10 oz per plant. How much
and in what way will not being able to lower
the lights effect my plants? Because of the quantity of light I'm using
and the fact that I will be growing my plants to fill
the room I figure that it won't matter but am I right? Also at the moment
(only during the construction) my plants are in
a cupboard under a single 600w hps (no C02) and the top leaves (new growth)
are all very dark green and curling
significantly. The light is about 30-40 cm away from the plants (as far
as is possible) is this the problem? The plants
are also in small pots of perlite as opposed to the coconut fibre and clay
balls I usually use and so I'm watering them
about two litres every six hours with solution mixed as according to the
bottle (not as high as usual because there's no
C02). Is this OK or could this also be the cause of the curling?
TOPIC - straight perlite cloning
DATE - 07:39:01 7/11/99
FROM - Cowboy
dude,my friend has had some success with straight perlite in a small greenhouse
12"by 16" with a dome and a resovoir
that feeds through a wick system.its a store bought unit from greentrees
or some such place.using about 1/4 strength
nutes success at cloning takes a little longer than the cheapo aero(3 to
4 weeks)but no misting and no fussing.clones
were cut and put into the fridge in a small bucket with a slight amount
of moisture for 24 hrs.then popped into the mini
greenhouse and left alone on the side of a 400 watt veg grow.although the
cheapo aero works magnificently for this
friend now.and this friend tried everything.good luck.
later
TOPIC - cloning problems
DATE - 07:20:07 7/11/99
FROM - Strider
cowboy..... I0K's version of the areo cloner is what I used just hasn't
panned out for me. Blazer.... the clones I put in
p/v using rootone looked the best the longest. they just wouldn't put out
roots. all the clones just sort of ran out of gas
so to speak b4 they rooted. I dont know if the plants I am taking cuttings
from are still suitible for taking more? They
haven't started budding big time yet but all the growing tips have several
clusters of flowers on them.( have them
outside) I may have to just start more plants from seed. and keep them
in veg till I get this cloning thing down. I guess I
will try the rockwool along with the p/v and use a dome. I'll see if I
can figure a way to add some bottom heat without
overdoing it. Like the song says.." you can't allways get what you want."
Hell... I'd just like to get what I need. Sorry for
the long/hard to read post b4. I shouldn't smoke, listen to Dylan and post
all at the same time,LOL... Strider.
TOPIC - NEW SITE! Cloning
DATE - 21:31:57 7/10/99
FROM - Blazer
Cowboy and all this new site Vic mentioned will have a search engine w/
more info that's new and cutting edge as well
as the old stand by's. Coming soon, these boy's have thier ducks inna row
now;)
I know the boys that made the cloner at weedbase and many people that have
varied it w/ great success. They say
good roots in some strains at 4 days. I can't get it to work for shit Myself!
LOL I've seen it work wonders though. I don't
know what I did wrong and aren't usually in too big of a hurry so I stick
w/ the Clonex rooting gel and Oasis cubes. I
sometimes use a v/p combo and have used RW in the past all using the same
method. A nice clean cut at a node if
possible, dip in the gel and poke it in the cube or v/p or whatever and
cover w/ a dome. I drop the flouro's on there
heads literally on 24/7 and mist when I see the dome not being covered
in condensation w/ h2o and superthrive or just
h2o.around day 5-6 start lifting the dome and or cut out a few air holes.
BTW I always cover the bottom of My cloning
trays w/ a 1/4" or so of vermiculite in an attempt to draw the roots down
from the cubes via moisture and it also helps
keep the roots toasty. By week 2 I always have roots growing in the verm.
and some leaves are beginning to yellow
asking for ferts.. I've seen a million ways of cloning, hell some guys
still use a glass of h2o in a window! LOL All can
work. I find My way damn simple and forgiving watering wise since the verm.
holds in some so well. heating matts are
something I've started using just lately and I think it may shave a few
days if I remember correctly last time. I'll post
more on that asap, it's that time again. That's My 2 cents, simpler is
better IMO, especially at 1st. Less variables to
think of and or rule out down the road. Actually, I'd like to see someone
else do the aero tub and rub it in My face until I
get stubborn/patient enough to dial in Mine!
Blaze
TOPIC - strider and cloning
DATE - 18:54:49 7/10/99
FROM - cowboy
Howdy dude,
My friend used to fight the cloning thing,she tried all different types
of methods with varying degrees of success .Then
my friend happened across this cheapo aero cloner made by 10k over at weedbase
before it went to what it is now.MY
friend built one and it worked so good she built a second one.I swear to
you that it works great,my friend lets the roots
get fairly large and then transplants directly into square 5.25 inch pots
of fired clay pebbles.
I have the link as it got bookmarked.Any questions just holler i lurk here
a lot.Hope the link works for you.
later
http://www.laughing-moon.com/forum/geni/messages/31449.html
Link:
TOPIC - New Site
DATE - 17:58:10 7/10/99
FROM - Vic High
Webby, you missed a spot! I better post it here for you to spare this cultured
crowd you engineeering spelling, haha.
Everyone - the new replacement for Weedbase is almost here, woo hoo!! Can't
wait. I hope it has a search engine like
the old one and allows password protection of our aliases. This news made
my day, now maybe we can but Weedbase
to rest once and for all.
Strider - good to hear from you, I'll come back later and give your problem
a good read if someone doesn't beat me to it.
My cloning methods of very basic, haha. Mold is my only enemy, haha.
TOPIC - Grow woe/someone to talk to
DATE - 14:36:06 7/10/99
FROM - Strider
Hi All.. Greetings! Funny how I feel like I know and am old friends with
everyone who posts here. But, after lurking and
learning here for the past 10 mo, it just comes natural. I try to follow
the "seek, lurk, read" advice. I've spent the last
months setting up, tweaking, experiencing my grow. Growing in the cold
months from seed, no problems. I have'nt
done a summer grow yet and my cloning attempt has me frustrated. I've tried
to build a year round system thats neat
and tidy. LoL.My grow's a converted tack/feed room 6x7x6.6, I grow in soil.I
have 2 400w hps diamond
lights.Venting/air system consists of an a/c and 2. 110 cftm continious
duty rated intake/exhaust fans. They are
controlled using a 120v wall thermo and/or a timer. run thru a 24v coil,
single pole double throw 120/240v switch. 1
contact NO the other NC.The Nclosed contact feeds the 120v thermo, its
the primary venting circut.(works good as
long as outside air temp is low. tho i'm woried about its long term reliability/safety
and will probably switch to a 24v
system.) The Nopen feeds the same fans but is run thru a 24v sprinkler
timer. Anyone use these.? the timer has 3
programs x 6 sub programs each, for total of 18 events @ 0 to 2 hrs each.
about $80 US. this part of circut will run the
fans durring AC operation for air/co2 exchange only. with the 120v wall
therm set on 90 as a backup in case ac fails.
Durring testing/simulation for summer grow I found I had too large a btu
ac for room size 7.5k. Cooled down quick but
no humidity removal. I swapped for a 5k . With one 400w running I can keep
the room 80 degrees at 70% humidity and
AC run time minimal. 2 lights is just too much heat, ac runs double and
humidity drops. what do you think is a good
timer schedual for air/co2 exchange.I have programed/tested @ every 2 hrs
for 5 min. air volume is 210 cft. 1 light 6
plants. As to my cloning attempts, I'm having problems. just b4 it got
hot i vegged 3 ak47 3 blueberry, to about 24"set
them outside and took 16 clones. this being my first clone attempt i tried
3 diff ways, per/verm, soil. areo. the areo
clones do ok untill they callouse over on bottom of stem. then i have massive
leaf die off.(all clones had 3 sets leaves)
The p/v looked good for long time. now are yellowing/drooping. soil same.
been watering with 1/4 strength fert/distilled
water. tried diff enviroments put a few in sunny but not hot window some
under 80w flor1ww1cw bulb. all look pityfull.
had 2 of the areos get bumps put them in soil have kept soil moist and
mist twice a day. floros are about 18" above
plants humidity is 80% all clones but six have died, and they look as if
they may also. so I may have to regroup and try
again. Ill need to do it soon b4 outside plants start to flower. I've always
had a big veg garden and a green thumb of
sorts. We do a lot of canning every year, This clone thing frustrates but,
wont defeat me. Any help/info would be
appreciated I Respect and trust the advice/info shared here. On some forums
you wonder if the giver has ever really
grown anything. here if you show you have put out some effort and thought
things out and are seeking advice or
shareing a revelation, folks are eager to converse. If you have your head
up your ass or want all your work done for you.
Its buzz off bub..! Makes visiting this fourm a pleasure. Hats off to you
Vic..! Allso, didnt realize how handy and
informative the search at weedbase was till it went down.....Peace.....Strider.
TOPIC - SOULMAN
DATE - 11:14:12 7/10/99
FROM - Blazer
Hey Bud, don't tell Me yer gettin thin skinned on Me!LOL I know better;)
I figured if I threw out a lil slander at You, I get
something in return for sure..Works slick eh? It wan't a very warm re welcome,
but I figured You'd think I was more Ill
than usual if I had something "warm and fuzzy" to get Yer attention. Please
stick around more, I'd like to chat and pick
Yer lil melon if I may. Many new lil alterations etc. I wanted to share
and info as well as maybe some new jeans in the
future for Us and I don't mean Levi's.
Peace My Friends, enjoy the weekend;)
Blazer
TOPIC - Some Greets & Answers
DATE - 10:56:08 7/10/99
FROM - Soul
Blazer_~ Hey y'all! What do call folks you DON'T like?
Danbo_~ You're quite welcome. Thanks for the update & please don't
forget to report on the outdoor results come
Autumn.
Ju_ce71_~ Your C99s are growing pretty much normally. Even though the temps
are high, that much CO2 allows the
plants to keep up with in the increase in their metabolism (Rule of thumb:
Temp range is extended +10 degrees with
CO2). Personally, I don't believe THC production is increased in response
to high growroom temps - that's not been my
experience. I've gotten my best indoor crops during cold months.
TOPIC - diane
DATE - 10:28:51 7/10/99
FROM - sb
diane
yes you can place the young clones under the combo light for 12 and under
flourescent lighting for the remaining
portion of your artificial "day".
Also 24 hours of light works just fine, but I have switched to 18 hour
days without any noticable decline in growth.
gssf
sb
TOPIC - Thanks Irish
DATE - 10:03:03 7/10/99
FROM - Skinman
Hey Irish my fish thank you from the bottom of their aquatic little hearts.
That is exactly the site I was looking for and
I'd already been through boodles of sites on the net to date, kinda daunting
with all the info out there. These were right
in my expected price range, think I'll be getting one for them soon. A
great help, thanks again. Peace, Love and go
naked, Skinman out.
TOPIC - Diane again
DATE - 09:28:23 7/10/99
FROM - ju_ce71
Diane the rest of that post was deleted somehow.
?800w mh/hps, which one is it MH or HPS I'm unaware of a
combo bulb, or for that matter 800w bulbs.
?newbie clones, what does that mean.
You what to flower with your greatest lumen
source(brightest light)
Diane 12/12 means 12hours of light followed by 12hours of
darkness.
grow peace
TOPIC - ?diane
DATE - 09:22:11 7/10/99
FROM - ju-ce71
greetings diane, I hope you are enjoying good health and
peace of mind.
Diane you said>I have one room with a 800w mh/hpsI'm ready for flowering,
but i have newbie
clones. Can i move those clones after 12hrs under
the 800w to a less (cheap) powerful light source
for the other 12?Also, I read not to apply bloom fertilizer during
flowering because of taste...is this true? How soon
before flower time should i apply fertilizer?<
Diane you will apply bloom ferts during flowering but
depending on what experts you follow you will just use water
to clear, any where from the last 7 days up to 3 weeks
before harvest.
Finally Diane you might what to read some of the online grow
guides to get a little better understanding of the grow
process a lot of people(not me;) )get fairly upset at
answering questions from new growers.
grow
TOPIC - THC and Stress
DATE - 09:03:38 7/10/99
FROM - ju_ce71
Greetings Pi, that was an interesting test. The reference
at Hydro minerals makes no mention of "arid" or UV per se
just refers to heat. I'm wondering if 93 is just hot enough
to reduce yield but not enought to create stress. Hydro
mentions that they were doing test on clone groups(same
genetics) with heat all the way up to 98+, which reduced
yield by 25% but increased potency. Increased heat to reduce
yield and increase potency obviously wouldn't do for most
situations but for that personal primo stash maybe.
Curious George, on reflections I did exactly that with my
current(and first) grow. At the base of each container there
is a mylar square with a slit to accommodate the plant,
justed seemed intuitive to try to reflect as much light at
possible.
Chronic, how about IMHO(in my humble opinion), and BTW(by
the way) and finally NFM(no further message)
TOPIC - light changes
DATE - 08:41:24 7/10/99
FROM - diane
I have one room with a 800w mh/hps. Question
is: I'm ready for flowering, but i have newbie
clones. Can i move those clones after 12hrs under
the 800w to a less (cheap) powerful light source
for the other 12? If so, any suggestions?
Also, I read not to apply bloom fertilizer during
flowering because of taste...is this true? How soon
before flower time should i apply fertilizer?
Thanx for your help :)
TOPIC - OffTopic and Irish
DATE - 07:29:39 7/10/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All,
Irish thanks for the heads up;-) Ive had a Reeftank up since
1990, I just(Dec/98) lost the last original resident(3 spot hawaian humbug
damsel) that was there from the original
cycle 9 years ago! I have a Pink Skunk clown thats 7 years old, and a Yellow
Tang thats 5. IMO the key to keeping
marine animals thriving in a Reeftank, is massive filteration and water
movement(current). In a 55gal tank, I have a
"wet/dry filter" a canister filter, and a lowlevel powerhead, combined
they move over 500gph, the intakes for the filters
are on the rightside of the tank, and the exhusts are on the left side,
as is the power head, creating a fast moving left to
right current. My fish have to keep swimming to stay above there coral
heads, just like in the ocean. This really keeps
them in good condition , and not getting fat and lazy. And the over filteration
of the water keeps a great water quality.
All I do is replace evoprated water with treated(amquel, novaqua, and Trace
elements) tap water, and do a 10-20%
change each 3-4 months. And a small animal load helps also. Following these
steps, I have had marine animals
exceed there "commerical seaquarium" life expectancy by 2 years in some
cases! I have a friend in Miami who has a
clown fish for 18 years! Both hobbys are alike in many ways, and both bring
alot of satisfaction;-) Sorry for the OTP.
Peace
TOPIC - thc
DATE - 02:29:40 7/10/99
FROM - pi
my take on the topic of increased thc prodution is that i saw the word
'arid' and assumed that to mean dry and 'cool'.
another thc altering factor often mentioned is this uv thing which tends
to be associated with mj grown at hi altitude. if
one puts these two together they make more sense.
besides being exposed to more uv rays, hi altitude mj would possibly be
in cool and arid climate (mountaintop) vs arid
and hot (desert). seems like MJ Botony makes this same destinction in a
veiled way.
anyhow that is how i see it. i have tried using a dehumidifier without
compensating a/c and really saw no diff and
maybe a slight decrease in buds and an increase in mites. temp was running
as hi as 93 deg.i now had a 15k btu wall
unit but i will waite until winter to test this out however.
TOPIC - male plants
DATE - 00:59:59 7/10/99
FROM - trelaway
unlucky-what I'd do is let it finish and make butter out of it. Use 4-6
oz of plant matter to a pound of butter.
boil the plant matter and water a 1/2 hour--add butter and boil for two
hours at the lowest setting that will allow for
boiling.
Pour everything thru a cheeseclothe (available at supermarkets) into containers
that will fit into the fridge. Really
squeeze the shit out of the plant matter, the butter doesn't come out without
a battle.
Put yer liquid in the fridge, throw away the plant matter. The butter will seperate from the water and harden on top.
Cook with 2x butter in cake/cookie recipes.
Eat a small tester before indulging. Wait an hour.
I'm not kidding with the testor. I ate too much a few batches back and woke seven hours later on my bathroom floor.
eating is a different experience from toking--much more powerful. easy
on the lungs too.....
TOPIC - damn...one more... of course...=)
DATE - 23:47:02 7/09/99
FROM - irish
budm,
the new chat site you visited....
be careful, it lists IP's directly on the message. I am sure you are proxied
to the hilt, but i noticed this trend and
thought i should say something. also there are a lot of cookies thrown
around at that place.
thank you vic, for no cookies.and everyone here for all the info.
TOPIC - link again hopefully
DATE - 22:23:19 7/09/99
FROM - irish
one more try, but just in case...
www.spectrapure.com
Link: reverse osmosis water filtration
TOPIC - reverse osmosis AND di....link
DATE - 22:21:48 7/09/99
FROM - irish
here ya go...the big mama (spectraplus, i think) of this place is about
550 american (shipped). 160 gallons per day. 50
gallons will take some planning.
they also have a high pressure pump attachment that will get you 300-400
Gpd. all GOOD aquarium places should be
able to get you this fine beauty, for your freshwater and/or tropical tank.
this should reduce their stress and death rate
caused by normal water changes.
good luck starting your REEF hobby. i think your clownfish will love it...000ppm
from 8.5 and 215ppm.
Link:
TOPIC - Heat THC compenstation
DATE - 20:07:06 7/09/99
FROM - ju_ce71
I hope all are enjoying good health and peace of mind. Soul
you mentioned that high heat 90+ results in leaner harvest
a condition I know has been documented at several places.
I'm curious however? was the bud you did harvest of a higher
THC content. There seems to be some new info that the
potency of ganga is stable at moderate temps, but as
reaction to heat the plant will increase THC production.?
have you tried CO2 to take advantage of the heat. I have c99
growing in a room with avg daytime temp of about 92-94 with
CO2 at 1300-1500 and althought the plants are not real
tall, they are extremely sturdy and show 10-12 nodes sites
at 11inchs.
gr
TOPIC - pi & JUICE users,BudM 30X Mag
DATE - 18:00:14 7/09/99
FROM - Blazer
Pi I forgot to mention that sometimes its a must to add the juice over
a 2 day interval unless You dont mind using PH
up. If I add all of mine at 1 time, I can usually get away w/ it at a ph
of about 5.5, but it rises in 12 hours You'll soon
find. Citric acid doesn't have the staying power of Phos. acid for ph up,
it looses it's low ph effects fast. My tap PH is
8.2 and up sometimes w/ a ppm of atleast 220 at the lowest. Some friends
in Ontario have over 800 ppm in Thiers! Wild
how it varis so much geographically. I'm rambling now, LOL Goodluck, don't
give up on it!
*BudM I've had that samelighted mag glass for a long time, it's wicked
isn't it? I saw a 100x shaped just like it w/ a tray
and stand out yesterday on sale for 10$ and the 30X was 6$. I'd get them
fellas, makes seeing clearly much easier;)
Blazer
TOPIC - male plant
DATE - 16:38:30 7/09/99
FROM - unlucky
anybody know of a way to make the most of a male plant if the females were
eaten by critters? I cant bear to kill it if
its the only one left.
TOPIC - General Stuff
DATE - 14:54:23 7/09/99
FROM - Skinman
Hi all,
Was wondering if anyone knows good sites for ordering RO/DI 3-4 stage water purifiers?
Danbo - Wondering if you could tell me some background on the Quick I am
playing around with? Got a few from Sub
and was wondering the geneology.
Have a good weekend all!
Skinman out.
TOPIC - Soul
DATE - 07:37:35 7/09/99
FROM - Danbo
Hey Buddy, Good to see you out and about. The C-99 went
their way from my place. I haven't heard anything since.
Have you? You're a true Gent Mr. Soul. I miss seeing you around.
TOPIC - Pi
DATE - 07:28:40 7/09/99
FROM - Danbo
Sounds like you're making beer or wine. In essence this is
true. Many of the bio.catylists are just that. Even using
inverted sugars will drop your ph that way. It's all that
acid that it takes to make sucrose , glucose so the plants
can metabolise it. Just use some ph up and balance it between 6.3 and 6.8.
I thought we wanted the sugar coating on
the outside?
TOPIC - Net Buster
DATE - 07:22:18 7/09/99
FROM - Budm
Hi again, I wanted to post the addy for "Net Buster" its freeware and downloadable,
and will protect your machine from
Trojans,its the program that "occam" was posting about that thwarts the
hackers attempt with a false root directory, it
seems fairly easy to config, and has a lot of fetures, the addy is http://www.surf.to/netbuster
HTH
Peace
TOPIC - RS 30x mag
DATE - 05:10:34 7/09/99
FROM - Budm
Hi All-
HC- Radio Shack sells a OK 30x cheap maginifyer for about 10$us, it takes
a bit to get used to, but it does the job.
HTH
A great weekend to all ;-)
Peace
TOPIC -
DATE - 03:48:54 7/09/99
FROM - H.C.
Hellow all youse fine people. Have a couple of questions for ya.
1 The flowering time for NL5xHAZE?
2 Where may I get a 30 power Loupe?
thanks
TOPIC - cane sugar and citrus crystals ph
DATE - 02:47:29 7/09/99
FROM - pi
-my tap water is @ 8.0 ph and 80 ppm
-i use wc, v, and p in 50/25/25 ratio for my soil mix
-i mixed the cane sugar/cirus acid crystals in 1.0 L so i use 10ml per
gal
-i now use the mix for 1212 only and @ every watering
when i used sugar mix w/ tap water only the ph dropped below 4.0 and the plants did not like and i lost one in veg.
when i used sugar mix in conjunction with 1 capful maxicrop(30ml) the ph
was approx 5.5 and the plants did not seem
to mind as much.
my observations are that i should have used ph up or maxicrop when using
the concoction and maybe it would be a
waste on plants in veg.
should i have adjusted further to a 6.5 ph?
any input would be appreciated.
TOPIC - Blazer
DATE - 18:03:08 7/08/99
FROM - occam
Hey mate, happy to help, if I can; just remember how much free advice is
worth. ;)
TOPIC - Net Bus again
DATE - 17:51:10 7/08/99
FROM - occam
No prob 180
Actually there was no succesful hack. NetBuster emulates the NetBus server,
so it appears to the hackers' computer
that the NetBus server is installed on the victims'.
NetBuster was designed mainly to detect the hack attempt, and to see what
the bastard is trying to do.
I read somewhere that as many as 30% of mIRC users may have NetBus installed
on their computers and don't know
it. Something to think about...
TOPIC - Wow! Great plant Tools!
DATE - 17:33:48 7/08/99
FROM - sensi
Unbelievable! Be cool if you buy from or contact them:
They ARE NOT a "Gro Shop" !!
http://www.specmeters.com/datalogger_rec.htm
http://www.specmeters.com/index.htm
TOPIC - occam, thanks
DATE - 16:27:33 7/08/99
FROM - 180
occam, thanx for the clarification. as long as it's a trojan i'm not overly
concerned...although it does suck that someone
got your email here and then tried to screw you with a trojan (no pun intended),
which is what i'm assuming
happened...?
cult of the dead cow made a big deal about Back Orifice, said that 300,000
copies had been downloaded. big deal, so
much the worse for the unwary; it isn't a threat if you're careful. and
let's face it, email attachments are a tedious
unreliable pain in the ass, "hackers" wouldn't use them if they had a better
way to invade your computer, which they
don't. that bit about "netbuster's" features was amusing. imagine the poor
"hacker", all excited over his first successful
exploit, only to find his hard drive all kludged by you. too funny.
bssf
TOPIC -
DATE - 14:32:52 7/08/99
FROM - Vic high
Occam - thanks for the info bud. I don't completely follow but I'm a dummy
in this area.
Blazer - that nozzle of yours sounds good, why not mount it into your intake?
That will then cool the incoming air which
is what you want and make sure most of the droplets are fully evaporated
before they hit your plants. Not sure if you
want to be keeping your plants wet or washed.
All - mailcity has done a Hotmail and now requires cookies. I won't go
there so any mail there won't be answered until I
can access it from a remote PC. New Email addy is:
bcga@mauimail.com
TOPIC - Vic&Soul on evap cooling, occam and ALL
DATE - 13:28:09 7/08/99
FROM - Blazer
Hey Gents I too could benefit from the evaporative cooling idea. I have
a small patio mister set up right now on the deck
that goes w/ the OD spigot. It's nice, but the emmittors aren't as fine
as I'd like. I got to looking at them and other
systems and the actual parts that the h2o travels thru to become a mist(the
emmittor) is a screw in, brass part that
looks incredibly similar to the carb. jets I have for some hopped up ATV's
We have. I took a few extra's and found the
parts needed to affix it to a spigot like the evap. cooling rig. They work
great, but are way to fine of a mist, too small of
a orifice. They probably emit MAYBE 1/25 of a gallon per hour and the lack
of h2o didn't allow for any kind of spray
pattern. I think by getting jets for a big cycle rather than the jets for
My lil 250cc carbs will make the difference Vic is
looking for and possibly Myself. I know by getting the h2o into a smaller
"vapor" like these jets do will get Us cooler
temps overall as well as a nice rinse for the gals w/o over doing it....automation
Baby;) Smell what I'm steppin' in there
Soulman? LOL I'll look and report asap, but that doesn't mean anytime really
soon sadly. Maybe inna week or so.
occam Man that stuff scares the hell out of Me! I never even look at odd
or unsolicited emails in fear of the like. I'm just
puter-stupid enough to get burned really well playing w/ that kinda fire.
I'm wanting/needing a newer puter really bad and
would love/need a lil tutorial on that stuff when I do please.
ALL BTW You wouldn't know about any used or starter computer systems out
there for sale would Ya's? Hell I'd be
happy w/ a P2 250 or the like at this point! I got burned onna puter trade
just recently leaving Me on this old Compaq
486 Deskpro that's been slightly hopped up enough to mess Me up when I
want to try something new. I have most of
the parts to get a good starter up or take over a "hand Me down" puter
that needed a few parts to get it rolling
again(soundcard, memory etc). Any pointers or the like folks? TIA
Blazer
TOPIC - NetBus, BO, Dirt
DATE - 11:22:46 7/08/99
FROM - occam
Hi 180, how goes it?
Hey Vic, if my "Intro to Computing" instructor from a few years back saw
your question about me being a teacher, he'd
bust a gut laughing. I am no expert. Much of what I know about computers
is gleaned from public information on the
'net.
That being said, here's a short rundown on "Remote Administration Utilities
Designed as a Trojan Horse". (Apologies
for inaccuracies or omissions)
NetBus is a Trojan, similar to BO, except that it is Windows based; BO
will work on Windows, Mac, UNIX, and even
Amiga, apparently. The victim has to be fooled into installing the server
on his computer, (e-mail attachments,
downloaded programs, etc.). The DIRT program sounds like a similar puppie,
except that it is designed for LEO's and
the like.
There are several software programs that detect and/or remove BO, NetBus
and NetBus attacks. I was using NetBuster
when someone tried it on me here. It's not the best, but it is fun. It
makes it appear to the hacker that he has access to
your computer files when he doesn't, logs the hackers ISP and what he tries
to do, and, if you're lucky, lets you take
control of the hackers computer. I've been using NetBus Detective for some
time now; it's more effective, but not as
much fun as NetBuster.
It's a big topic, there's lots of info from more informed sources than
me. If anyone wants to add to or correct anything
here, go for it. My ego can stand it. ;)
TOPIC -
DATE - 11:06:19 7/08/99
FROM - Vic High
Thanks Soul. The garden is getting close to 6 weeks and if I was harvesting
sinse, I would be cutting the grapefruit and
G13 now, they look ready. The blueberry are close and the romulans are
no where near. And as luck would have it, the
blueberry and romulan are the only "important" seeds in the seed crop.
Actually I'm not sure what is up with the
romulans and blueberry, some look like 3 and 4 week buds. Maybe my ozone
tube is leaking light into the closet
through the vent pipe, it's all kinda hacked together, haha.
Anyway, I have no desire to flower the C99 for another month or so, I kinda
want to get to know them first and allow
them to become quite mature. Kinda walking a fine line here trying to maximize
seed developement while keepng C99
in veg mode.
With your heat problems, I feel for you, been there myself in the past.
yep I had skimpy buds who's pistals prematurely
browned and spongy stalks. The plants also took on a yellow green look.
Although, you can normally get away with an
inadaquate intake fan, I found them to be very important in helping solve
high temp problems. Tonnes of ventilation and
as much misting as you can get away with. Down below there is some info
on foggers. I didn't find something practical
for the hobby grower, but with all the incentive in other parts of North
America right now, maybe somebody will come up
with somethings. Building a comercial swamp cooler could help some of the
hoby growers in this group.
TOPIC - Soul,Side Lighting, reflective..
DATE - 10:29:13 7/08/99
FROM - Blazer
SoulMan...Say You Old prick;) How the hell are Ya? Long time no see..not
to mention the lack of breaking each others
balls a lil now and then;) Good seein Ya
Side Lighting I have a 430 hps conversion I use for side lighting all the
time, moving it here and there. I don't think the
plants get confused nor care which direction the lumens come from as long
as they keep on coming IMO. I like the
results anyhow.
Reflecive paints etc. I use a white marine enamel on My walls to reflect
rather than mylar, just seems easier and the
gals diggit.
Well that's it for now. Another hot Mofo out today, sweat sweat sweat!
No rest for the wicked they tell me...I must Be 1
wicked bastard;)
Blazer
TOPIC - Feedback to Vic
DATE - 09:27:45 7/08/99
FROM - Soul
Vic_~ You didn't mention how far along the seed crop is. In my experience,
you can let them mature during the final
two weeks in 18/6 without noticing any negative effects. One other measure
I take with seeds is to let them dry in the
buds until everything is dry...the seeds get an extra week to mature during
the drying process. I choose only seeds
with the "skin" on them (the thin coating which contains the stripes or
speckles) as being mature. This skin may be
rubbed off later through handling, but as long as it was developed - the
seed is mature & likely to be viable.
By flowering your C99 seedlings at the size you've started them, you'll
see more stretching than if they were more
mature, but they'll still be quite nice. The bud sites just won't be as
"connected" to each other along the main cola.
Been experiencing a rather HOT spell in my area, I've noticed some effects
of high (90 degrees PLUS) temperatures on
an indoor garden:
1. Lower yield, skinnier colas.
2. Wimpy stalks
3. Flowers (pistils) turning brown earlier.
Is this what you've noticed too?
TOPIC -
DATE - 08:46:53 7/08/99
FROM - Vic High
Loop - I'm in a stationary closet setup, so it's hard to get even coverage,
therefore some plants are 8" from UV and
some are 24". They seem like they are ready for more UV but I'll wait until
the seed crop is done. Then I'll add the
second UV tube to the other side of the room and start cranking it up again.
I'll use it to select the males that survive,
haha.
Incidently, the C99 seedlings are also in the flower room due to space
limitations, and bad weather outside. They are
mostly between 7 and eight sets of leaves, and still no preflowers with
the exception of one male and one female. They
are now at the stage where they have slowed upward growth and are filling
out.
Say, the seed crop is well seeded now, just immature. I'm not concerned
about bud quality, so does anyone know if
the seeds (as a whole) will continue to mature if I flip back to 18/6?
Worried how long I have before the seedlings start
to flip, haha. I know from experience that some will mature, but curious
about a whole bud's worth and how it will affect
the energy put into maturing the seeds. Soul & NCGA - either of you
lurking?
seedling pot size - personally. I've never seen a problem with starting
seeds in small pots, just transplant before they
are rootbound. In fact, I find that the smaller the better. This way you
can water more often, reducing the chance that
the water in the medium becoming stagnent. I usually use either the 48
hole or 72 hole seedling flats. I average
somewhere in the 50/50 ratio of males/females. Keeping the medium with
fresh oxygen is equally important for both
seedlings and clones, IMHO :)
Yes Occam, please explain. I looked at the CGI script and couldn't see
any changes, but I'm no expert. One of the
advantages to moving here from HBC was my ability to block the IP sniffers
or those hackers from planting counters.
Also would you be willing to be teacher? I don't even know what a "net
bus" attack is or how one would detect it. Not
really growing info, but I don't think anyone will throw stones if you
are off topic, haha. Thanks bro.
180 & george - I too was a little confused about the reflective mulch
idea, I just figured it was for outdoor growers. I
guess I could see a use for those hydro growers that have to keep their
plants spaced the same thoughout the grow.
Then it may help speed up the veg grow - where the silver or white would
be best. My thoughts were that if it was
helping an indoor flower crop, then your canopy wasn't tight enough and
you were wasting light.
Danbo - woo hoo!! good to hear. Wish I could remeber if you got new stock
or old stock.
TOPIC - jabba, pot size; occam, details please!
DATE - 05:10:55 7/08/99
FROM - 180
jabba, the size of the pot is less important with clones than with seedlings,
because the clones are already at full
maturity; they won't be influenced to change sex expression by root constriction.
avoid a bare roots situation if you can, it's traumatic to the plant. and
btw, i find that it's best to root clones into a fairly
neutral medium, i.e. one that has very little nutrient content. perl/verm
works but it's very loose. i just use a commercial
"seed-starting" mix (peter's professional potting soil and germinating
mix), because it retains moisture and holds
together during transplant.
occam, good to see you :-) please tell us HOW YOU DETECTED the attempted
"net bus" exploit against your 'puter,
that one gave me the jitters!! i thought our main worries came from trojans,
but it sounds like you're saying someone
put an IP-sniffer hack on this server, then "followed" you. PLEASE CLARIFY!!
TIA
george, my tomatoes are going nuts this year, though not as far along as
yours. gotta love those sweet 100's! and yes,
those studies with the silver mulch are just copying the standard indoor
grower's strategy of maximizing reflection. the
problem is that most indoor grows don't have the kind of plant spacing
that could benefit from this silver mulch strategy,
because space and direct light (rather than lower intensity reflected lumens)
is usually at a premium. that said, i have
heard of more than one hydro table "mulched" with mylar or white plastic...
peace
TOPIC - cloning
DATE - 01:57:06 7/08/99
FROM - trelaway
jabba--whatever you root the clone in gets transplanted with the clone.
Baring the roots will piss yer plant off. I used to
clone into once inch r.w. cubes but now use a four inch pot with perilite:sunshine
mix 1:1. The clones don't seem to
have a preference.
Any medium that the plant can stand up in will work. You can use shredded
rubber tires if you like. But, yer right,
without a nutrient source, you'll have to provide it via the water.
TOPIC - cloning
DATE - 01:10:09 7/08/99
FROM - jabba the hut
Hello. When you clone, do you remove the rooted cuttings from the medium
with nothing but naked roots and then
transplant, or do you simply transplant the clone and rooting medium into
soil/larger pot? This is one little factor that
never gets talked about in much detail. I'm sure that it varies from medium
to medium, but I would like to know for both
rockwool, and separately, a 50/50 perlite vermic. mix.
With the perlite/verm mix, I thought it would be better to simply let the
clone fill the pot (using 4 inches tall, 3 inches
wide plastic pots) with roots and then transplant just like with a normal
plant. So long as it is fertilized adequately, the
perlite/verm mix is a suitable propagating medium, is it not? I mean, why
tip the pot up soon after the cutting has
sprouted roots, shake the soil off the clone and then risk damaging the
fragile roots by putting the naked roots directly
into a new medium? Do you know what I'm getting at?
Budm spoke of his method of cloning with 4" rockwool cubes with 4 cuttings
in each, then taking the newly rooted
clones out and transplanting. But wouldn't it be less stressful for the
clones to use 1 clone per cube, wait until the roots
have filled up the cube and have protruded through the cubes base and then
transplant?
Also, we have been warned about using too small containers for propagating
seedlings due to the high incidence of
males, but a clone, being an exact genotypic replicate of its parent, wouldn't
be affected by having such a small
container to start off in? So therefore wouldn't you say that a small container
(less than 4" high) would be better than a
larger container for rooting cuttings? That way the clone would fill the
container with roots sooner, allowing quicker
transplanting to a more suitable medium for seedling/vegetative growth.
If all these questions could be answered, it wouold help me greatly.
Thanks.
TOPIC - Rommberry!
DATE - 17:42:23 7/07/99
FROM - Danbo
Vic, the Rommberry has broken 5 feet. I'll be shooting