OK guys, time to get back on topic. I've done a little housecleaning
and all the relevent info is posted at:
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/5796/bcg_chat.htm"> http://www.geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Amphitheatre/5796/bcg_chat.htm</A>
It may start to take a while to load the page but this can be corrected by just loading part of the page. You can do this by clicking on stop when you think enough of the page has loaded. About 1/3 is unscrambled at this point.
Time 19:03, 15 Nov 1998
From Lady J
In washington we breed pot towards one goal only...potency.
Time 15:44, 15 Nov 1998
trelaway We mostly use a 600 w sodium
and a 400 w clear HQIT Halide run of a
400 w sodium ballast, As far as uv is concerned clear metal halides produce
quiet a lot ofuv a,b and a little c. None of the halides in this country have
internal igniters so all will run off standard sodium ballast / igniters, This over
runs the halide lamp by 15 to 20 % shortens its life but ups the lumen and uv
output. We change all lamps once a year at4 to 5 thousand hrs use and
because of the daily switching they are at about 80% of initial light output. So we
don't notice the reduced life,the last grow is usually down in quality density
and a little in weight. If you go one past that it is down ounces, we use a 600 w s
and a 400 w h per 20 sq ftto replace both lamps costs less than 1/2 an oz
of puff this is how we worked out the replacement times. With our sat heavy
varieties there is a dramatic difference with the quality of the high between
sodium alone andthe combination with halide, we have blind tested it
several times the results are always the same. We grow manly sat heavy vars
and the better growers are getting 1.8 to just over 2 kilos 5 times a year the
plants are grown organically.
c14 thats getting obsessive LOL I would
disagree on some points one of my best
plants makes 5 to 6 ft is a full sat so has small but closely packed calyxes, long
thin buds, the trichomes are as fine as hair so close they look like fur and turn
amber when fully ripe. Its stem is weak and needs a yo-yo to hold it up. It has
other problems a couple of grams in a glass jar open it in a room and it makes
the whole place stink you can imagine what its like growing it. It does have a
couple of good points, it crumbles perfectly oh yes and the first time people
smoke it they usually fall over. So I put up with it!It has so few leaves I
sometimes wonder how it grows at all, there is hardly any shake for the scuff
machine, another fault it has so much resin that small buds weigh a lot and look
half the size of the same weight of NL. It takes at least 12 weeks and at its very
best at 16 and still I put up with it! The thing is that i nearly chucked it 15 years
ago just on looks fortunately I kept a copy. Iím going to get some kip now sorry
for rambling on all the best Ot1
Time 14:34, 15 Nov 1998
Hey, I was pleased to see that someone
out there still mentioned the strain
known as "Williams Wonder" as well as "Blueberry". Unfortunately, most of what
is out there that guys call blueberry is not truly that strain.I grew commercially for
many years, and when our friendly local law enforcement authorities saw fit to
change my career path, I was growing both the aforementioned strains. BB can
easily be distinguished by the odd blue-green charecteristics of the stalks and
its extremely low weight production even out of huge plants. Also, some leaves
will always be of a very darg green nature and extremely deformed, this strain is
not polyploid so I doubt it has anything to do with colcichine innoculation of the
seed stock. Williams was my personal favorite for potency and consistent
production of weight per plant...as long as you grew it right, I had my own
secrets which I tried to share with others which were rejected because they
actually took effort and a little scientific analysis, so I care not to repeat them
here. Let us just say, I was able to double the THC content with alittle light
manipulation and a lot of research into the nutrients that are actually responsible
for the development of resin as well as those responsible for limiting resin
production. If you already know, you know it to be simple, if you dont, well, tough.
Anyways, stay free.
Time 14:04, 15 Nov 1998
hi all :0 on the subject of selection,
here's my bit, for what it's worth - it's all
specific to my own variety, but i guess much of it would apply to other types...
*overall vigour outstanding.
* flowers 'double', or in heavier clusters than average.
*strong stem, bends not snaps when bent sharply.
*stems 'furry'.finer, denser fur is better than the coarser, hairier kind.
*leaves thicker than avg.
*red stripe clearly defined on stems in bright light.
*flower/leaf ratio above avg.
*trichomes *large *densely packed *not
in visible lines along flowers *present on
all parts of the colas.
all breeders [m+f] must be potent enough
to be felt when three small cones are
smoked - before flowering.
the effect must be an 'up' high, with 'clarity'.. taste not bitter.
resistance to molds, mites, soil parasites
and other common pests, speed of
growth, tolerance of temperature extremes, fineness of fibre
overall - best taste/aroma, finest bones, lowest leaf count, least chlorophyll,
tightest flower-structure, largest calyxes, most resin, most pleasant/potent.
thc levels seem to drop a lot at the very start of flowering, for just a few days,
then sharply rise again and keep rising.
the best plants are small and hardly noticable during veg., going on to flower
prolifically. ot1's 'backup plants' plan is really useful here - there are so many
factors involved in selecting the 'ideal' plant.
Time 14:02, 15 Nov 1998
I'm in a lighting buying mood and have
two budding options. My barrier is powere
use and venting.
So, I could buy, for my 4.5x4.5ft room,
a six hundred hps and run it the full 12
OR a four hundred hps and run it for the twelve in tandem with my 400MH for the
middle six of the twelve.
I recognize the lumen advantage of the
600w but was wondering if it was still
better than the combo of MH and HPS.
Time 10:10, 15 Nov 1998
Jack most of us grow pot for what it
does for us after that comes yield, form,
smell, taste and come to that what ever you want to select for.blueberry is
quite variable in high taste and form as a true IBL would be. So I would suggest
you make a couple of backups of each seedling grow your plants out both males
and females and take the time to select the best for future breeding. You can
keep the backup clones going for months under a fluorescentlight until
you decide which are the best. Do test the males to make sure they are potent
as well before using them.
trelaway epsom salts are fast release
but don't last long in the soil. Dolomite lime
is slow release and very long lasting and it requires acid reaction in the soil to
start releasing Mg so Vic is covering all the angles.
loop_hole I just lost my oldest mum yesterday
and she was 15 years old with out
recloning the next oldest are 5 years old and have been on continuous light
barring the odd power failers in all that time. They are kept semi bonsai under 4
ft x 2 ft four tube 40 w layin fluorescent fitting I have seen no special problems
doing this. People in the co-op are getting between 45 grams to 102 grams per
sq ft of canopy with cuttings from this system at 50 w per sq ft it depends on their
All the best Ot1
Time 18:42, 14 Nov 1998
I was reading Vic's soil mix and see
he adds epsom salts and dolomite lime. I'm
confused cause I thought the lime would provide Mg and epsom wouldn't be
I'm 'getting to know' organic growing so am posting merely for clarification.
Time 17:40, 14 Nov 1998
From Jack (email@example.com)
hey all, just looking for someone who
has experience growing the BCGA
BLUEBERRY.I have many mothers, and I would like some help with
deciding which one to breed.Could you just e-mail me, or post a message
on this board or alt.drugs.pot.cutivation telling me which characteristics I should
look for. I.E. thick leaves, red in stem, short or long hairs, varigation thikness of
the stem.I just want to start breeding before I get to test which one is the
best.Any help you give will be appreciated:)later,
Time 04:46, 14 Nov 1998
yo loophole... i agree. done hydro and
oranic.... if you're really into organic the
yields really aren't very much less. much better product in my honest opinion.
better taste.... better buzz. very potent.
Time -2:15, 14 Nov 1998
hey vic,did you ever get to make any
Time -3:01, 14 Nov 1998
mota try this link
go to light movers and the very first one is is the one im talking about,the motor
is contained and actually travels back and forth,you will also see a not bad
picture of the track,good enough to give you the idea i had.
also recomend the hortilux hps bulb for
super lumen output...
Time 15:28, 13 Nov 1998
Thanks, 1000 HPS on a light mover sounds excellent.Will definetly look
into the light rail 3, especially since it can be "cut to fit".
Time 14:56, 13 Nov 1998
mota-as far as light is concerned the
more the merrier,i would go for the 1000
hps and a mover as well,movers only use like 5 watts an hour so you wont notice
it at all on your hydro bill.i recomend the light rail 3 for movers,you can cut the 6
foot track to fit your room and the beauty of the system is that you control travel
distances with little thumb clamp,so there is no need to shorten chain as well,the
track can run back and forth 6 inches to 6 feet.height may be a bit of a problem
but with that small area you can fit a good number of 2 gallon pots in there and
flower when only 10-12 inches...
Time 10:58, 13 Nov 1998
Since we're kind of on the topic of lights,
if you had a flowering room measuring
4'W x 5'L x 6'H would you be better off using a stationary 1000W HPSor a
600W HPS on a light mover? Also the room will be injected with CO2.
Time 08:39, 13 Nov 1998
Light and sleep,.
Well I'm glad to see this tread continuingÖ interesting thoughts.
Reduced light when rooting clones- Again there's probably a perfect day length
for rooting clones based on how much light they get as well as other resource
factors. My gut feeling is plants can only use so much light and then they must
sleep (oversimplified of course). This is probably why there's so much
disagreement on optimum light length and level between even experienced
growers. In my clone box (2' x 4' x 1' with 4 - 40w flos) 16 hours seems best. I
have not done as much experimenting as c14 (16 3/4 hours! Man that's taking it
to a fine level) my clones root in 6-8 days. For me, due to my techniques, clone
speed and growth isn't that big of an issue. That said, I find the clones that root
the fastest grow the fastest.
Same issues apply for veg. Maybe if we
just watch our ladies and note when
they are looking tired, that should be determine how long the day is. Just like
humans, the amount of sleep (and food) is somewhat determined by the amount
of energy expended during the day. I'm sure that "optimum" is different for every
Regarding the 8/12 story in high times.
Don't forget that these lads were using
2000 watts on movers in a 4 x 7 space with NFT and co2
(71w/ft2).Perhaps 12 hours of that level of light is too much, so for them
speed is a fair trade off. Like you said "I suspect there is a point where it
overloads with light energy and waste it". I personally would have used a 50%
larger area and gone 12/12, but hey that's just me. I do think that it would work
(although I have never tried it). That's probably why 16/12 worked so well for you
Vic. At 20w/ft2 light is probably your weak link. That said, at 3 -4 lbs. per bulb I
think we can safely say that it works for you and you know what the hell your
doing (people do call you god).
I too am a big fan of movers. I don't
use insane light levels (40 w/ft2) so I
maximize light by making sure as much of the plant receives a good hit as
possible. Plants are stepped in my room. Each row is 6" higher than the next one
in a kind of theater set up. That, with the aid of a linear mover, ensures that
each of my short (9") ladies get a full hit of light. With co2 I can expect approx.
1.2- 1.3 grams per watt per 55 days (10 days veg and 45 day flower). That's
what makes this hobby so interesting. So many ways to get the same results.
Too bad about kongless Paul. Would have
liked to hear some news. Although
I've very interested in aeroponics, I have to agree with you Vic, heavy chem
weed taste like shit (that is if it burns at all). Is it possible to rinse enough with
pure chem? I'm back to full organics myself (well almost) and growth hasn't
seemed to suffer at all, in fact this is my best looking crop ever ;-).
I'd like to hear about ncga experience
with descending light. If you bump into him
in cyberland, could you ask him to drop me a line.
Thanks to all.
Time -2:56, 13 Nov 1998
Vic, Bordeaux powder is this anti-fungal,
anti-mold stuff that really comes in
handy. You can dust seeds with it to prevent root rot, or use it to kill mold on
buds. Oh, maybe you wanted Cookii to answer that---sorry! Anyone hear from
Time 18:37, 12 Nov 1998
From Vic High
sleep time - my experience with cuttings
is that ones taken from plants that have
been under 12/12 root faster than ones taken from plants in veg. Could it be the
flowering hormone that is causeing the faster rooting than the reduced light?
Although these flowering clones root faster, I've found that they tend to be a bit
slower at getting on with veg growth, thus negating any benefits of the faster
rooting. I suspect this would be true of rooting clones under 12/12 as well?
I was one of the people at LM that figured
that flowering under 8/12 was a crock
of BS. The reason is that with a 7 day timer, I have flowered under 12/12 and
16/12. The 16/12 kept large yields but reduced flowering time by a week.
Because of a tight work schedule and the fact I still hand water, I am currently
working with 12/12. I never took enough notes to determine which method was
more efficient. Burning more electricity per week vs. reducing flowering by a
Anyway, if extending the day to 16 hours
can have a positive effect, it didn't
seem sound that a reduced day would also be a good thing. I can picture tiny
yields maturing faster.
I too am familiar with plants looking
tired at the end of a hot summer day but then
looking full of vigour the following morning. Plants can only grow as fast as their
slowest physiological process will allow them. When supercharging them, you
need to supercharge all aspects of the plant's needs to fully benefit. The
extended days are only good if the plant's physiology is up to speed and able to
take advantage of it. This is why you slowly supercharge with added CO2 and
lighting and not do it all at once.
I think this also plays a role in explaining
one of the reasons why light movers
can increase lighting efficiency so much. For a plant to absorb more light
energy, it needs to process and/or store the light energy it has already
absorbed. I suspect there is a point where it overloads with light energy and
wastes it. With the light mover, the lumen intensity fluctuates allowing the plant's
other processes to catch up, therfore reducing waste. Just a thought???
Time 18:15, 12 Nov 1998
From Vic High
catchup time, haha.
loop_hole - welcome.....your right, I
need to overhaul the webpage, update it,
and reword it. Gotta find the time.... I work a perpetual harvest flower room so
cannot play with the idea of descending photoperiod although I know ncga
swears by it....... nope The "Paul" that showed came Kongless. He came with a
chemically grown ?"white kush"???? that was tolerated for about half a joint.
After that it was bcga genetics for the rest of the weekend. Not because there
was anything special about the genetics, but because the organics was easier
on the throats, haha.
Mota - I'm still waiting for emery to
have some of his romulan in stock to test it
out. He never seems to have any when I'm in town. His initial romulan breeding
involved trying to stabilize a romulan white widow hybrid that he recieved from
Romulan Joe. These seeds were the best kept secrets in Vancouver about 1 1/2
years ago. The bud more potent than pure romulan but with a loss in yield and
flavour. The accurate timeline details are listed elsewhere but I know emery
didn't have a pure romulan for his breeding because he offered me some big $$
for a clone a little over a year ago. About the time that emery published that a
"pure" romulan was soon to be released Romulan Joe was robbed and some
clones were taken. The word on the street was that Federation had aquired the
romulan clone for emery and was creating the seeds. Since then, I've had lunch
with another local cannabis activist and seed seller called Ian Hunter who says
he is friends with Romulan Joe. He says that Rom Joe has been working on
developing the cubed romulan for emery. Gary who works for Emery Seed Sales
informed me that they had someone independant of Rom Joe working on cubing
the romulan. Who knows???? Personally, I would say that the two best bets from
emery would be the romulan/WW (even though it is F2) and also take a chance
on his version of the pure romulan. The only downside I can see to the ww being
part of emery's romulan gentetics is the suspected presence of ruderalis or at
least autoflowering. The increased potency is a definate positive though.
OT1- The governing bodies definately
suck, kinda makes you wonder who they
are truly representing. Actually I think we all know the truth but it still pisses us
off when they smack us across the head with it.
c14 - welcome. SharethatPC, your sister
has been entertaining :) haha
Say, don't want to sound too ignorant, but what is bourdeaux mixture? All I can
think of is a red wine mixture. You must have been reading my mind about
breeding for powdery mildew resistance. When I first grew blueberry, I was
pissed at the results after paying $28.50 a seed, but I keep finding so many
pleasant surprises in it's genetics. Romberry was my first step in cubing the
romulan clone. Don't think I could have picked a better starting point. I definately
owe Shaun and Emery at HBC a big thanks for steering me in the right direction
Eric - yes BCGA blueberry is definately
true breeding. I actually have one
version of it on the way that is almost deformity free. I just need to test for stable
flavour and potency. Vigour is slowly improving though.
Time 14:20, 12 Nov 1998
hi all!so you got to meet my mad sister
cookii!!isn't she a
character? i've reclaimed my puter now, so she'll be
less frequent in her visits now...actually, some of her ramblings were in
fact quotes from me...:P
vic - 'bordeaux mixture' is effective
for controlling powdery mildew. it's not too
nice on flowers though.. i spray it on lower leaves if need be, it works..
hey maybe one of you guys with large gardens might find the time to select from
say 1000 romulans a resistant specimen, clone it, force it to self-pollinate and
hopefully get it immune... just a thought...
ot1 - man, i'm so sorry for you. blair
seemed like a nazi to me when he got in,
despite the cheesy easy image. please keep on it, i myself am english, am
chronically ill and would be prescribed medical marijuana should it be available.
maximum respect to you man!
loop - gotta agree with you there about
giving cuttings time to sleep for better
rooting -i've tried 24, 18/6, 16/8, 12/12, and i find without doubt that my
cuttings get started much faster, and are much healthier, if they are on a 12 to
14 hour regimen.the hormones involved with flowering are much like those
used by the plants for root growth... plants do different things at night -
they need sleep like every other living thing..i've done many tests on light
cycles, and the strains i work with definately do NOT benefit at all from days
longer than 17 1/2 hours, some varieties 16 3/4 hours. growth is measurably
improved up to that point, any more is just a waste of electricity and denies your
garden sleep. i'm sure that if cannabis was a perenial plant the ill-effects would
be obvious - as they rarely get to vegetate for longer than a few months, the
problems are not given time to become obvious.
the stretch is due to hormones, not lack of light.
anyways, it's nice to meet you all..take
Time 09:28, 12 Nov 1998
Thank you to all that have answered about descending light cycles.
Warning: long disjointed post (and no I'm not high).
I got to think about this a couple of
weeks ago when I read an article in Practical
hydroponics and greenhouse.The author was stating that HID lights
should be on only as long as the plants can process the light. In high light level
environments, a 14 hour day can be as effective as 18 due to limit of other
resources (i.e. co2 levels, temp, root oxygen etc). At the time I just
transplanted my clones and noticed that the poor little ladies, while being perky
at the beginning of the light cycle, were looking a little tired at the end of an 18
hour day.I've always found that my clones root the fastest under a 16 hour
day (something I latter read in "how to supercharge your garden") so I scaled
back the schedule to 16/8.I thought the extra night could be used to build
a better root system but it might compromise above
groundgrowth.My girls have never looked better.They almost
look like cabbages being about 9" tall on there 13th node with a stock that is just
about as thick as a pencil and absolutely huge leaves. I transplanted them 10
days ago (no co2).Anyway, I thought that the initial stretch at the
beginning of 12/12 was due to the fact that they didn't receive enough light for
good veg at a 12 hour day.Now I'm starting to wonder.At laughing
moon a while back people where discussing an article in High Times where they
were using an 8/12 cycle to speed up flowering time. While everyone was
claiming it to be crap (of course with no one actually trying it) it might make
sense if the light levels where high enough.If the amount of
photosynthesis is based on the level of lumens x amount of plant surface struck
x time ( I know it's more complex than that) = maximum limit due to resources ,
then higher levels of light could be used for a shorter period of time. Perhaps
the stretch we encounter at the beginning of 12/12 isn't due to the fact that it
doesn't quite get enough ,it's more to do with the change. In nature a sudden
change in light level could mean plant crowding and it would make sense for a
girl to bolt if she wants to see any action (pollen).
I noticed that I have a greater stretch when going from 24/0 than 18/6 and I
might get even less going from 16/8 to 12/12.I guess my theory could be
tested be adding 50% more light at the time of changing form 18 to 12. Perhaps
someone with a better understanding could tell me if there is another reason for
the stretch (i.e. hormonal change etc).As cookie stated, plants outside
don't seem to make that large bolt at the beginning of flowering and do later in
the cycle.The later stretch could be caused by light levels not quite being
high enough to match the other resources.
The big question is, even if this theory is all true (which I sort of doubt) how
slowly do we have to change the light cycle in order to fool nature (I only veg 10
to 14 days).
1-theres a hell of a lot of stuff to learn in this hobby of ours
2-you don't have to be stoned to babble
3- when some people come out of the closet, they do so with a vengeance ;-)
Time 09:14, 12 Nov 1998
Vic i read that blueberry is a true breeder
is that true...and does this included
your blueberry from Heavens stairway
Time 08:34, 12 Nov 1998
From Vic High
Just a quick note before heading for work.
I introduced a nl/haze plant into my
room a couple weeks ago that had powdery
mildew. Well room was dry and has lots of air circulation and powdery mildew is
not a hard condition to control so I didn't worry too much about it. Well I kept
forgetting to deal with it until yesterday when I noticed it had spread substanially.
There are chemicals that irradicate it quite easily so I decided to try SM-90
(organic) to see if it actually worked. I should know in a day or two.
I did notice some interesting mildew
resistant trends though. Durban poison and
blueberry were uneffected. Romulan, champagne, and nl/haze were all attacked
by the mold.
Time 06:19, 12 Nov 1998
Hey Ed lost Aloha's site but I know Adam
well and going back in spring any one
want to tag along in Europe for about a week in spring?
Time 02:23, 12 Nov 1998
Does anyone know the e-mail address to
Time -1:22, 12 Nov 1998
What a nightmare! I really believed that
the UK was just waiting for something
like the passing of the MM initiatives here to decrim there. How long before they
just implement "the final solution" for us? And they tell us here on the news, what
a wonderful man Tony Blair is. Peace in our time, 67ed
Time 13:25, 11 Nov 1998
Our government today turned down categorically
the recommendations made by
the house of lords that cannabis should be made available by subscription for
medical use. There are at least 85000 people in the uk suffering with ms without
all the other illnesses that could be helped. The government have licensed a
small medical research project a few months ago, they are now saying that they
wont look at medical marijuana again until the project is completed 5 to 10
years!!!! It is obvious that they allowed the research to short cut and kill the
house of lords recommendations and still be seen to be doing something. Iíve
looked at the remit for the research :- 1 Develop standardised extracts of
cannabis and identify all active ingredients.2Develop delivery methods
into patients, absolutely excluding smoking. 3 Prepare data for product licence
approval and patenting the list goes on.
A lot of the funding money is coming from the USA it is just too depressing. In the
mean time the sick will have to suffer! Tony Blairs government is has turned out
to be the most uncaring and callus seen this century. They had a chance to help
the sick and infirme and they ignored them, they are beyond contempt.
Time 12:18, 11 Nov 1998
From ERIC CARR
Yep NCGA has done it.....i remember him
talkin about it
Time 10:56, 11 Nov 1998
loop_hole> I think NCGA has done something
along those lines. not sure of the
in order to do what you want and mimic
nature as much as possible you want a
programable controller from a place like Smarthome.com. they have a good bit
of x-10 technology and most of the bells and whistles you want. it is at...
Good Grow Bro
Time -1:36, 11 Nov 1998
loop-hole...i've tried it both ways and
didn't find any difference in the length of
finish time or final results. both were done as seed crops so that might have
made some difference...the jury is still out. i do plan on trying a more controlled
experiment in about 6 weeks with it using ncga's stock (mostly) but not making
seed this time. i don't expect much difference between the two, but if it can help
the crop by gradually shortening day-length, instead of the sudden drop from 18
to 12, then i'll post about it. i have a good friend (and fellow poster) nearby who
can judge them...and you also have me! but maybe you can be in the las vegas
area around the end of february and judge for yourself!
btw, welcome! glad to see you found your
way out of the closet...
Time 15:56, 10 Nov 1998
From KanGuru^ (mobius47@hotmail>com)
thanks for the warning I assume there
all bugged but I run a legit garden just
never order or discuss lights or hydro tables IMO I order lots of pure blend and
pH down or stuff like castings stuff anyone would buy I hope this isn't stupid
always paid cash for any lights and driven long distanceses hope I'm safe can't
imagine investigating every person that orders a few gallons of Fertilizer????
Time 13:03, 10 Nov 1998
loophole - yes i've tried both methods.
i find that my strains bred specially
for outdoor definately do stretch a lot when
photoperiod is suddenly shortened to 12 hours. seriously increasing lumens at
that point had no effect, so it can't be lack of light causing it.
if i cut the day down slowly, imitating
nature to some degree, the stretch
happens much as it would outside - that is, about half-way into the flowering
if i cut it back suddenly, it's during
the first/second week. either way, it's gonna
happen - to my strains anyways.
my RedStripe is a long-cycle plant, takes
8 weeks from the point where the
branches have fluff-balls for tips.
[which takes about a month from first shortening on the day]
i must say, outdoor/organic works ten
times better for me at least... i get pounds
where indoor it's only ounces,
there's a lot less chlorophyll to rot out,
and best of all, i can sleep at night!!
i have no idea if this is any help...hope so..heheheh :P
vic - i have a christmas card for you,
how do i get it there?
Time 09:32, 10 Nov 1998
Is the Romulan strain offered by the
Federation on Emery's web site legit?
Time 07:20, 10 Nov 1998
Greetings Vic and others.
Thought it was about time I came out
of the closet (figuratively) since I've been
lurking in these parts for quite a while (well over a year on the old HBC boards).
Vic- Back to an old question you had
about communicating the fact that you
don't wish to be a seed vender. I suggest that on your page you might change
the wording of "seeds offered by the association" to seeds "produced by the
association". Since most people equate you with BCGA, it then sounds like you
(personally) are offering the seeds.
A question to all- Has anyone played
with a descending photoperiod as opposed
to a quick shift (i.e. 18/6 for two days then 17/7. 16/8 etc.I just noticed that
outdoor plants don't seem to bolt when flowering and every time I switch from
18/6 to 12/12 my plants look quite unhappy for a couple days (pale) and then
By the way Vic, did you get to try any
of Danbo's Kong or Paul's for that matter.
Fill us in buddy.
Time 16:34, 9 Nov 1998
the medicine - the cure .......
first off, lets assume that you are concerned
with producing the finest sensi
possible. many people claim that the plants' thc levels drop after what is
referred to as 'peak of florescence'. why then, do the buds increase in
potency, and more importantly, quality of effect, the riper they become ?
ok, so your plants are flowering beautifully.
as they approach maturity, you will
notice that the individual flowers swell, firm, and sweat resin After the pistils
wither and brown. looking closely at the tips of the
flower-clusters, wait until you see no more than just a very few new calyxes.
when at least 90% of the flowers have swollen and sweated already, gently
press your finger against the end of a bud - it it feels very firm and perhaps a
little prickly, looks swollen and nicely covered in resin, then it's time to harvest.
for the finest cure, it's best to uproot
the plant carefully. if this is not possible, cut
the plant as low as you can. do Not remove any leaves. hang the plant upside
down in a cool, dark, well ventilated space. after several days, it will start to wilt.
it's a good idea to lightly mist it with water now. a
few days more, and the wilting will be well underway. daily misting is good,
as it's crucial to slow the drying as much as possible.
after two weeks of this, the plants will
be ready to have the majority of
leaves removed. make sure they are pliable yet fairly dry. very carefully
pluck them off, taking the stalk with them. when done, hang them up again and
lightly mist as before.
a few days on, and they will be ready
for the next stage. take them down, and
cut all the branches off the main trunk. bundle them all together and hang again.
another light misting is good now. leave them for another week at least, two if
next, undo the bundles, and as gently
as you are able, remove as much leaf as
you feel needs to go. practice will have you doing this with very little
resin getting on your fingers. tie them back into bundles again and hang up
as before, until they seem dry.
when bending a small flower-cluster snaps
the stem holding it to the bud, it's
ready to be cut and packed..... remove as much air from the packaging as
this method gives excellent results.
your herb will seem stronger and be
smoother to smoke. as you gain experience, refine and adapt the method to suit
personal taste and the strains you are using.
Time 18:02, 8 Nov 1998
From American Ag is BUGGED
US OR: Newsbuzz - Bugging Plants
Pubdate: Sun, 8 Nov 1998
Source: Willamette Week (OR)
Author: Maureen O'Hagan
NEWSBUZZ - BUGGING PLANTS
Local defense lawyers are up in arms after discovering that the Portland Police have been secretly tracing phone calls--perhaps for years--to get leads on suspected marijuana growers.
Defense lawyers, led locally by Pat Birmingham, discovered earlier this year that the Portland Police installed a device called a trap on the phone line of American Agriculture.The store, located on Southeast Stark Street, sells high-tech indoor growing equipment, and police suspect it's a favorite outlet for marijuana growing supplies.
A phone trap records the phone numbers of all incoming calls.
The Marijuana Task Force has used the trap to trace the numbers of the company's customers and find their street addresses. The cops then knock on their front doors and begin asking questions. These "knock and talks" have led police to basement marijuana grows.
It's unclear how long the trap on American Agriculture's phones has been in place or how many arrests have stemmed from calls traced to the store. Two things bother defense lawyers about the set-up. First, they wonder why the police have kept it secret for so long when lawyers are supposed to be told what led police to their clients. "I know in my cases when I asked where did you get the information on my client, they were evasive," says Michelle Burrows.
The second problem is the legality of the trap, which requires a warrant signed by a judge. In order to get the warrant, police must have probable cause to believe a certain individual is involved in criminal acts, according to Larry Olstad, an investigator for the defense.
Deputy District Attorney Mark McDonnell says that the police had signed warrants for the trap; however, the defense bar contends they were obtained illegally. Not only did the trap fail to target a specific individual, but the warrant was renewed over and over again.
State law says the trap may be placed on a phone for up to 30 days (and for an additional 30 days beyond that with a judge's OK). A judicial hearing on the trap's legality is scheduled for Dec.15. If the device is ruled illegal, defense lawyers say they'll move to have cases against their clients thrown out.
Checked-by: Rolf Ernst
Time 17:34, 8 Nov 1998
From Vic High
Whatweekend in Tofino. Met with Danbo
the Guirilla Gower and one of
LM's Pauls.What a guy that Danbo is, we had no problem picking him out
of the crowd, haha. Really glad we got to meet the two of them.
They even have free access to the internet
via a small coffee shop called the
coffee pod. Nice sunny weather, too, I figure Tofino must be one of the warmest
places in Canada.Tried some outdoor purple kush from that was grown in
Port Alberni. Those nugs were amazing! Hard as golf balls, and little odour but
lots of crystals. We were already too stoned to notice how stoned it got us
well, gotta go and take care of the girls,
I think they missed me. Haven't seen
them since noon on friday.
Time 08:51, 7 Nov 1998
Ive been lurking, here for almost amonth, Ive had the cotton in my mouth
and my ears open! I just wanted to thank all involved, Vic, Cookii,Eric,
Kenke, MG,etc. I have learned alot i have 5 2 week old Rombabys, that will
benefit greatly, from my lurking I hope I can help some of you one day.
Ive posted a good article, on new (to me) links at weedbase under "Gen
Indoor" 11/06/98 under "Great Links" by Budn , Some of you may enjoy one
or two of them. Any way Thanks again!
Time 11:48, 6 Nov 1998
hey mg i dont have yer number anymore..............email it to me..<br>
Time 10:41, 6 Nov 1998
kenke, i use open-end aluminum cans (the tall-boy beer cans) to keep
crawling insects off the seedlings. it might work for ants too. the ants
in my area are mostly carnivores so i like having them around and i remove
the cans from the trunk after plants are big enough to fend off the plant-munchers
but there's always been plenty of can space to leave on for the entire
grow. i can't recommend pesticide but if you must, there are several varieties
of "ant bait" that may work for your problem. but i'd try a barrier method
first...if it were me...one problem i have yet to solve though is keeping
away the "leaf-cutting bees"...although the damage is minimal. they just
leave lots of "half-moon" holes in my afghani's and similar wide-leaf plants.
they never bother the sativas though....
Time 07:45, 6 Nov 1998
vic has a section on the front of the main page that will answer your
questions....it always depends how bad the problem is but on outdoor plants
using seven dust BEFORE flowering always works.......
i would dig the hole in the clay...and put my mix in it.....
watch those plants because i think you will have to leach them out to
ferts out of the soil.....just look real close at the new growth....
Time 07:40, 6 Nov 1998
From Vic High
all - sorry to not be participating more. Been real busy with other
stuff. I find the
reads interesting though.
Anon 1:37 - GIVE ME A BREAK! A quick stroll through the [plaintexted]
the bottom or the text in the dumps will show how wrong you are. There is no
sign of any embedded codes or java script. I spent a fair bit of time searching
last night to be sure. I'm anyone with any html experience will be able to verify
Crane - thanks for the help bud, but I don't get off on it. I just deal
with it. Thanks
for the input though. Glad to see you back. You too m.g.Welcome
newcomers such as KenKeman and cookie. If I missed anyone it wasn't
BTW - if you avoid double spaces in your text, you won't get all those
Time 06:05, 6 Nov 1998
One more question:Once I have a good selection of female cuttings I
would love to grow a nice little batch outdoors.I have a small cottage in the
mountains where the temps are around 65 to 75 far. year around.The
ground is mostly clay so I will probably place them in pound bags of my soil mix
and then plant them in the ground.Is this logical thinking?Next, there
is a small problem with insects and leaf cutting ants.My solution for the
ants is to place a sticky jelly around the trunck to impede their assault on the
leaves.I would like to kill the insects with a fertilizer but I have the following
problems.I need a fert that lasts upwards of two weeks since I don't go to
the cabin that often.Can anyone offer a suggestion as to what to use that
is safe when smoking the ganj is concerned.
Time 06:02, 6 Nov 1998
The chicken is in the oven.
Time 05:58, 6 Nov 1998
Sounds pretty clear to me.I took the lights and put them up to where
about 1 1/2 feet above the plants.I will not add any more ferts to my water
till they gain a little color back!
Niagara tends to be a straint plant with little side branching.Should
prune and root the top 6 inches?
I take it that I should take one cutting from each plant and root them.How
long does it take to root and sex the plants.(2 weeks to root and 2 weeks
to sex)I Sex them quickly by putting them in another grow area for two
week or until they show their sex then I can throw away the males and just work
on the females.
I am starting to understand that to get a decent crop from seeds takes
Oh, well...now comes the waiting game.Let them grow till they
achieve a good 18 inches.When I get there I will post some pics for all!.
they are cute looking plants..
Time -2:13, 6 Nov 1998
yeah mon! i need 4 1000W mh conversion bulbs a.s.a.p.! you have my number...please call me collect when you can so we can work out payment and transportation...thanks much!
Time 16:55, 5 Nov 1998
for ph testing, try to find an aqurium ph test kit [bromothymol blue]. catch a little of the runoff from watering the plants, test it as per the instructions. it's cheap, and effective. with practice, you will learn how much the soils' ph differs from that of the runoff water. eventually, you'll be able to make very accurate guesses as to ph by simply looking at the plants and soil. a properly balanced soil will have the plants growing at a similar speed in every direction. if you seem to need to prune to encourage branching, the ph is probably too low
Time 16:49, 5 Nov 1998
kenkeman - dolomite is by no means essential. in fact, i don't even use it very often these days. to help neutralise soil ph, charcoal is very good. more usually though, standard horticultural lime is the thing, that's what farmers use. it's normal. one cup per square metre is a good starting point. i mention charcoal, as very high calcium is likely to screw up your plants resin production. also, charcaol works without producing salts, a side-effect of ph bouncing up and down. high salts = low health.
to sex your plants, take cuttings, label them, reduce their light to
8 hours and they will show sex almost imediately. it's a good idea to wait
till your seedlings have two sets of leaves before applying any fertizers,
in fact i recommend starting them in very small pots with simple seedraising
mix in [no ferts], then once they have two sets, pot them on into your
Time 16:25, 5 Nov 1998
i would bring that light UP away from them some more..maybe a foot or 18 inches and deffently have a fan blowing the heat off..as for the yellow color..the ph should be ok....and you should have enuff ferts in the soil ....so that may just be ...shit im lost there dude but your answer lies in the slower growth of the others.
now thAT I GO BACK AND REREAD ..THOSE WITH THE YELLOW TIPS.....did you
add any ferts to that soil if so you need to leach it out..if not it may
be burn from heat....but it sounds like to much fert..but if you didnt
add any it shouldnt be that....did you water them with ferts? what
you need to do is when your plants get about 18 inches you need to cut
six inces off from the top....dip them in a root hormone (rootone)...then
mix up 50% perlite 50% vermiculite in 16oz styrofome cups and......dip
the cut into the hormone above where the leaves are conected......DONT
REMOVE THE LEAVES...some people will tell you to remove the fan leaves
..but you need to leave them because the plant willl drawthe nutrients
from the fan leaves to for their roots...so dont use ferts...just plain
water as a spray ..you need to spray them 3 times a day...put them in a
container that has a clear top and set a plug in a floresent light and
let it rest on top of the container...so it will create a greenhouse effect
to hold moisture after about two weeks they should be rooted...make sure
you put holes in the bootom of those cups....and when you mist your plants
spray the mixture in the cups so the stem will stay wet
after the first week you can remove that lid and just set the light on top of the container..
im high........if i left anything out im sure someone will add it or i will tomorrow
after they root you can start to flower them....after a week or two you can determine sex..if you will tag each plant you can know which is male and which is female
Time 16:07, 5 Nov 1998
by shape i mean..in a circle..or in a square or ...well you understand
Time 16:07, 5 Nov 1998
Before anything a cordial salute to all. I am having certain dificulties with my babies and I wanted to know what I could do about them. I have them 12 inches under my 1000 MH lamp surrounded by mylarl. I have 14 seedlings that were sprouted about the 28 of october and are now 2 to 3 inches tall as of today. Several exhibit good growth while other are still on the second set of leaves. Is this normal. Another point is that I have some that have yellow tips. Their color is not very deep green but a little yellowish. Not much but just enough to worry me. In my country Dolomite Lime is not easy to come by and local shops don't have ph tester to see if acid is the problem. Does anyone have alternatives to reducing the acid quality of my soil.
I believe I made the error of using a potting soil that was treated with ferts. Maybe my ph is off. They are growing but I would have thought they would be a little more robust. Oh, by the way, they are Niagara from Dr. Greenthumb.
Another point that I would love to understand is the cloning process. I have 14 plants which should give me 8 to 10 females. Maybe less....Well, I would love to clone the females in order to increase my crop...but it is to my understanding that I must clone in vegetative state. How do I determine sex?
I must point out that I don't want to sell any of it. I simply want a supply that will meet my needs for 6 months. I would think that a couple of pounds of dry bud can do it. I have enough space for 20 full grown plants. I understand the cloning process and I even have the gear to do it right.
If anyone could explain I would love to hear how I should go about doing it. I will wait till my plants reach 18 inches before i flower them.
Thanks for any input!
Fumen mucho kenke!
Adios, el kenkeman
Time 14:36, 5 Nov 1998
the best ground cover i have found is to use blackberry vines they grow everywhere wild here and their leaves are bladed just like pot..but with a dark purple tinge to it..they gow very long..what you do is dig up some the are growing when you are transplanting your plants..they will be all sizes....get the longets ones..plant them in your patch and then train the vine to grow on,in,and around your plants ...take care of it as you would your plants..hell it will yeild all the blackberries you can eat..big juice ones..good to...and see once it gets about the time for the spotters to start flieng ..what you do is train the vine to cover as much as the plants as possable..this will cause a little stretching but it is worth it ...when you break up that pot color green with that purple..you actually make the patch to appear invisable because dark colors make landscape sink into the shadows..it will make the area apear to be 40% its normal size ( alot of times if they spot a small patch they dont even bother with it) then when flieng time is over you can remove the vines and let your plants recieve full sun for the resyt of flowering..
also like to use honey suckle ..it will mask the pot odor and they have white and yellow flowers all over them..(they are a vine as well) when those white and yellow (any bright color) get mingled in with your plants ...light colors STAND OUT and make anything darker appear to be a shadow and sink. but honey suckles have far to much folage so you have to keep it in check.. another thing i like is to take wire and go buy some colored rubber bands and wrap one here and one there (yellow..or white ones) and wire it to the TOPS of the plants about a foot above the plant tops...another good thing to do is to plant DIFFERENT STRAINS in a patch...instead of 20 of the same female..plant 4 of 5 DIFFERENT KINDS.... that will help to break up the patch too. just keep in mind that they are looking for a cultivated area...if you plant all satavias in a patch it will appear to the spotter as a circle of FUZZ..a light green FUZZ..and it sticks out BAD..indicas tend to appear like a shinney COIN.
also never plant in a shape....a *C* pattern for the plants is a good one to use
i hope this helps someone
Time 14:16, 5 Nov 1998
um, somehow i seem to have forgotten what causes tips to grow spiral
and twisted.. is it molybdenum deficiency?
Time 13:07, 5 Nov 1998
hahahahahhaha....yes i have grown in trees!
long ago, when i was a kid, it seemed like a really clever idea...after various lame attempts [buckets and the like hoisted up on pulleys !] i tried this: a tea-chest, mounted on several sturdy beams, way up high in the tree tops. filled with the usual mixtures, it was like having a regular planting hole up there :). grew a six foot 4oz normal plant even. but it was a hell of a lot of work, just getting the soil up there was very difficult... and as for mixing it up as you fill the hole, like i would do normally - well forget it!
so, it works, it's not easy to do, but my guess is that it would be very easy to spot from the air..i suppose if you need to grow in an area that is entirely covered in large trees it might be useful, but otherwise the novelty factor is really all it's got going for it...if you are worried about your crops being seen from the air, try this proven method :
select a variant that is better suited to diffuse light [ie. a strain usually considered to be indoor-only], grow it in containers through the veg period, then, as it's approaching bud-set, drop the ph a bit, boost both N & P a LOT, and plant it within the drip-line of some big trees. this should cause the plants to run somewhat, stretching as much as they are able. in the shade of the trees, the light is rather diffuse, and the plants will enjoy it as being somewhat similar to indoors! i've done this quite a few years, with great success! skunk#1 genetics seem to work better for this than many other types....oh, bigbud was good too, but didn't have big buds, just normal ones :). the thing is, they grew, and grew well. yields were average, potency was average, in fact it everything about this was average. but - the endless helicopter searches never found any of them, and i had several good harvests where i would have lost all most likely had i planted a stones' throw away in the sunshine.
Time 13:00, 5 Nov 1998
trees>>>> all kinds of ideas come to mind when you think of it... the best is to AVOID IT.. unless you just have too....if so use pulleys and ropes man...but any way you do it it is a bitch to do...one thing i always wanted to try was take an alluminum iragation pipe (many many around here) it is about a foot wide and 30 -40 feet long it has a 6 inch hole every foot down the length of it ....i wanted to bury it in the ground about three feet upright and fill it with soil.. put a funnel about five feet wide in the top of it and let it sit all winter to let the soil settle the plant clones in all the holes...i cant see why it wouldnt work...and instead of having 20 plants in a patch making it easy to spot from air...the patch would actually be no wider than 2-3 plants in width...from an airel view anyway....from the ground it would be large but not as large of a ground covered area.. but growing in trees is alot of hard work..i would just grow a ground patch...hell i would rather grow three ground patches and loose two of them to ripoffs than grow one patch in the trees...
Time 12:02, 5 Nov 1998
hey yeah i've seen homegrown too.. pretty sweet, it gets so real sometimes,
and i'm talking about paranoia, like real tension, and talk about a crop!
15 hundred thousand northern lights x afghani? holy shit. hey right out
of the blue have any of you guys ever grown in trees before?
Time 09:25, 5 Nov 1998
mg...hahahha your allowed :) as for your bulbs ...........ya just want
a conversion bulb??? i have a big stack around.............
Time 09:13, 5 Nov 1998
does anyone know if 1000W mh conversion bulbs exist and where to find
them? i've found them for smaller wattage but not in the 1000W range. have
2 new 1000W hps ballasts but really need an mh for my veg room...if i can't
find any, would one of y'all possibly be interested in buying one? $200
is all it takes!
Time -2:04, 5 Nov 1998
cooki -> Don't worry, the board isn't going to hell. You should have seen it a few months ago ;-) It was a lot of work on vic's part just to make the thing readable. The topic strays from hardcore grow discussion every now and then as things like elections happen, and there's the odd flame, if you can even call the recent weekly delivered insults flames, but the serious grow chat will be back.
Vic's proven that no matter what you do, you can't keep us from talking about our passion for long. The funny part is I don't think he dislikes the disruptions or controversy, in fact he seems to thrive on it! He's more active around here when it heats up than any other time ;-)
Getting back to growing, I was recently going to try the Sun Master metal halide but when I dropped by pacific northwest to check them out the fella working there talked me out of it, and their page is the only one I've seen hyping them... Don't know what's up with that. Anyone here using one? worth the price? (double a regular halide, almost as much as a whole new bulb ballast combo)
Time 20:30, 4 Nov 1998
btw...BB, you are a PIG!!!
i've seen you put away the crab legs at Hooters, so i feel qualified to call you a PIG! hehehehe...hope to do it again this winter too. stay tuned...i'll let you know when plans are finalized but the tentative plan is for mid-december and i'll be staying at the same place...but not with my previous "traveling buddy". i want to have some fun this time!
vic, hope to meet up with you on the next trip too...there is a definate plan to use the car ferry on the next trip as i have some friends on the island i'd also like to look up. i'll keep ya both informed as the details are solidified...
Time 20:20, 4 Nov 1998
speaking strictly as a nevadan....YAHOO!!!!
the first step has been taken. luckily (or unluckily, depending on how one looks at it) i am one that would qualify under the med. mj use...chronic pain. and don't we all have physical pain almost daily? that comes under "chronic pain"! so, most of us would also qualify!!! it just needs to pass again in the 2000 election before we can change our state constitution to allow the use of med. mj only...unlike the arizona initiative which allows all illegal drugs for medical use. but hey, it's a most excellent start, especially coming from a state that HAD the most prohibitive laws in the nation! the laws are still on the books but it has never been enforced in my 8+ years living here, except for the total idiots and ones begging for "state hospitality". we never read of grow-ops being busted...only meth and crack labs. so, as i've always said, this is very safe state to visit, live and most of all...indulge in our favorite hobby. when can we expect some company?
one more thought before i load my bowl...just ignore the asshole(s) that have recently turned up here (again). they offer nothing for us and will go away.
peace and good growing to all!
Time 13:27, 4 Nov 1998
i just found out that 3-4 states here in america just passed medical use for POT
WHOOOOPPPPPYYYY......man..t5his is a major freakin step
now it is legal for a doctor to proscribe pot to his patients....
THANK YOU GOD
and ..i watched the movie homegrown last night..it was pretty good...damn they had a field of northernlights x afgannii......it was a good show has anyone heard from Dr.greenthumbs.....im begin to worry about him...i e-mailed him to notify him my order was on the way and i havent heard back....its been about a week ...maybe he is on vacation..
see ya guys
Time 12:59, 4 Nov 1998
get HighGrow v1.2 from :
NOW, on another tip: there is an excellent virtual growing program out there - it's called HighGrow./ it can be downloaded from homepage-amsterdam in it's shareware form [which is fully functional in most senses]. it's an indoor setup, not outdoor [sadly], and it accurately models how cannabis responds to the various things people do to it in such a garden. check it out!! [ harvesting requires registration, but that's only $20. the author has worked very hard to make this thing, and surely deserves to earn something from it.]
Time -1:24, 4 Nov 1998
god vic i make one timely delivery of some stinking seeds and i get
called a goddamm pig..........hahaha kinda funny eh?? ..oh well kids must
play i guess....i liked the smoke ...bring more next time :) hehe........the
seeds from it are prolly good so i gave a few out for some people to try.......FREE
OF COURSE :))
Time 13:20, 2 Nov 1998
eric, stix -thanks for the input guys :D
anyone know of irc channels devoted to
breeding? if so, what network? [efnet?
ircnet? dalnet? undernet? secret, or not secret?]
it would be cool to chat realtime about this stuff.
Time 10:49, 2 Nov 1998
I sent SEED-BANK.COM...aka...BONGBLASTER
$20 for 20 hash seeds...I love a
good bargain...well....he e-mailed me when my letter arrived. He e-mailed me the
next day to tell he had mailed my seeds....
e-mailed me in 5 days to ask if they had arrived...then the next day ..I told him
they made it..i looked inside...man he told me he put me some extra seeds in but
he didnt tell me what..
He sent me 10 seeds of
(1)...BC HASH PLANT
(2)...strawberry blonde x Rom
(4)...Romberry x Princess
Thats a HELL of a bargain..more than
i expected...and some very good strains
Now ..he told me he isnt going to hook everyone up like that ..and i understand
but i told him i wanted to report exactly what happened and what my experience
was ....well....as you can see it was a good idea..i just wanted to try jhim out
when he made that hash seed offer..and i WILL be ordering from him again...his
responces and delivery time was WAY WAY WAY faster than
This is my honest account with my experiences with SEED-BANK COM.
what really getts me is that i gave him
more hell than ANYONE...I helped all
those other guys out..and the guy that i sling shit at for months ...gives me the
best service and free seeds...I cant figure it out...but he will recieve no more
flames from me...
p.s. were is my other 10 hash seeds you crook..HAHAHAHAHAAHAH
Time 08:06, 2 Nov 1998
try lettin that male that want shedreveg and start over....3
times the charm.....i have never heard of pollen to big.....are you saying that you
applied it and no seeds resulted..if so..then damn ..
If not i would go ahead and pollenate them with it...maybe mix it with some
distilled water then dip the flower in the mixture ....
Has anyone here smoked some FLO..if so
how was the high? thanks
Time 08:03, 2 Nov 1998
cookii>Re the too small pistils, be intresting
to treat the flowers on a branch or
two of the female with an application of Gibberillic Acid a week to 10 days before
pollination to see if the pistils would enlarge. I never used it to induce male
flowers as some are touting its use today, (I was trying for larger buds)but bout
15 years ago I did play around with it for above purpose-way too much stretch to
be useful for that but it just may enlarge those pistils.
Time 01:10, 2 Nov 1998
i saw a three cotyledon plant that was
pure female. the seeds came from hawaii.
it was a compact indica (2 ft. bud on a stick) it wasn't saved... potency was poor.
Time 12:27, 1 Nov 1998
help - my most hopeful looking male has
yes, it has flowers. they are somewhat pointed [well, they have a long tapering
extra fold of tissue that protrudes past the flower main by a few millimeters.]
anyway, they open, after a longer than usual time, and have no pollen to speak
what implications might this have, if i manage to collect a little somehow/??
also, another pollen-related query - one of my skunk hybrids was just so nice it
had to be bred, but, it's pollen was seemingly TOO BIG to get into the pistils of
the selected mothers.
now, can anyone offer suggestions for dealing with this? this male is very good
otherwise - lots of thc, extra flowers growing out of the nodes, extra
leaves and branches here and there too... is it worth trying? or is this likely to be
a waste of time, like the three-cotyledon variant [99% of the time male, and much
less stable in sex expression under hostile conditions]???
Time 09:43, 1 Nov 1998
cookii>>> just thought i would introduce
myself since we have sooooo much in
common ... our names. hehehe
Vic you have cookii and pie at your site. all you need now is "cake".
cookii, btw, I have experienced that
rapture too. sure is nice to find out 'you are
not a lone man on an island'.
this is a good site.
Time 03:12, 1 Nov 1998
pauly - heh, please forgive my ramblings!
i just found this board, and was greatly
heartened by it's content -so much so that a rapture of celebration of the
remedy had me leaving tempting descriptions perhaps a little
sorry to be a tease, but patience rewards...
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