Time 08:41, 26 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Hey I hope everyone had a great day yesterday.
Now to look forward to New
Years Eve! That's my favourite holiday, haha.
Great haze info, keep it coming, haha.
I may one day create a high intensity
section to the grow room to support some haze breeding. Ot1, I hope our friend
comes through with the haze seeds, actually I'm sure he will in one way or
another. I doubt they will be lost on him.
I think for the next while I'll be getting
seeds instead of money for the seeds that I
send HS. I'm looking for strains to add to my seed collection for future projects. It
would probably be several years before I would ever get around to them, but you
never know what is around the political corner, so I figured I would learn from the
mistakes of the 70s and 80s and get the genetics while they are available. I've
been concentrating on pure strains, but am open to suggestions. Maybe these
haze should be another addition? I've been considering a good white widow line
and ak47 line (even though they are hybrids) but have been wondering if they are
more hype than substance. All that HPS breeding over in Holland has me
concerned as well, but maybe a couple of generations of MH lighting could help
reverse the negative effects? I've also been keeping an eye open for a pure high
end afghani but haven't heard too much about it. Another item I would like to find
is a real durban poison and not that BS that holland sells, but a real sativa. Don't
get me wrong, I think holland has done us all a great service in keeping some of
the genetics alive and available. For the record, I too like to let the soil get fairly
dry between waterings and I'm happy when they start going through lots (like a
gallon/day/10 gal pot), it means I'm getting good growth. I use pot weight to
decide when to water. When they get too dry, I usually water twice as OT1 does,
making sure at least the first watering is with warmer water that has been sitting
All this watering discussion reminds
me of a humorous situation I was part of
recently. A friend was trying out my method of growing using the soil mix in 10 gal
pots. To speed things up we took the gamble of planting small 6" clones directly
into the 10 gal pots. I then warned him to not over water and said that I sometimes
leave them for a couple of weeks before watering again. Well he mixed the soil
dryer than I do so the top layer of soil (where the roots still were) dryed out faster
than normal but because of the size of the pots, the bottom remained moist. He
kept using the moisture meter and it kept saying that the soil was moist enough so
he never questioned my advice about not watering. Well about two - three weeks
later he started complaining how slow they were growing (actually they stopped)
so I went to check on them. Well one look and I could see they were drought
stressed. Lifted the pots and they were feather weight, haha. We spent that night
and the next day pouring water on the girls and within a day, light green growth
started appearing on all the growth tips. Each 10 gal pots took about 3-4 gallons
of water to bring it back up to proper moisture! I just thought it was humorous
because my "don't over love the plants and leave them alone" speech backfired,
From what I've seen of Breeder Steve's
work, I would doubt whether his Shisk
contained ruderalis but I agree, it should still be investigated.
Time 07:06, 26 Dec 1998
Thanks everyone !!!
Time 03:49, 26 Dec 1998
I don't have any pure haze mums any more
I lost them 8 or 9 years ago to a Borg
attack. This is a point worth making all the sat vars that I have tried are very
susceptible to the two spot mite. So as far as growing sats are concerned a clean
house is needed. I did haveloads of h seeds but over the years have given
them away and Iím sorry to say no one made a go of it with them. In our climate it
needs dedication and to be a good gardener to boot. To grow with tropicals
indoors and under lighting, well totally different techniques are needed but to my
mind they are worth it. This year I have passed on most of what I had left of my h
seed stock to a friend and if he is successful the strain may carry on we will see. I
do have some mums from a series of crosses made between h and ss of which hd
is one, its my fav smoke and takes 9 to 10 w on 12 h. I have great respect for
Nevil and if the fastest is 14 weeks there isn't much nl in there. Small mottled
seeds sound like the right thing too, they sound like a good bet to me and well
worth trying. The main prob with haze is with so much inbreeding you only get 5 to
10% of really exceptional ones so loads need growing to get a really good one. I
suspect Nevil crossed h to a non dom nl then back crossed to h again the idea
being to remove the inbreeding depression without affecting the haze character.
This is only supposition but its the route I would take if I had the space and the
Dr Evil I cant access the anti-social account so don't send to me there. I don't
know shiske it sounds like Canadian genetics? If it is i would want to verify that it
didn't have ruderalis in its makeup . I think it should be a duty if breading not to
include this gene for future generations to have to deal with, its a disaster. Apart
from that yes you should get some time reduction you would have to make the
cross to see how much.I did the haze crosses both ways and the time result
is the same, but the hybrids are mould susceptible [only a little] The hazes never
had mould neither have any of the other pure sats they seem completely immune
I wish I could say the same about mites.
67ed Dropped you a line.
BudmWhen I water I do it once enough to dampen well then go back after
1/2 hr and do it again to run through. Then leave until dry, but not so dry that the
root ball shrinks back from the pot because this will kill some of the very fine
feeder roots it wont kill the plants just reduce the nutrient up take and in turn the
final yield. The main problem with beginners is that they tend to over feed and
water killing the plants they love with kindness although they often survive inspite
of the gardener. Hope this helps Ot1
Time 00:21, 26 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
67ed: Too bad about the posi haze. The
HF version sounds intersting though.
This year, a plant could have gone to mid Dec., but this has been an unusual
year, can't count on it being like that next year. It hadn't occured to me that the
EP would finish earlier down here. Any other strain suggestions? These were only
ideas, no seeds bought yet, so I'm not married to them. So far as the rafts go,
even during a storm, if they are anchored they won't move far among the reeds.
The fact that they could move some laterally (as they bob around) might even
help some in a wind storm. I figure any weather calamity beyond that would
probably also wipe out a more conventional crop in this area, just part of the risk.
What do you think of the haze x shiske idea for an indoor plant? Maybe even
outdoor, although the shiske component is mold prone. I guess that would
depend on bud structure.
Have a safe and happy holiday
Time -1:25, 26 Dec 1998
Dr. Evil: Someone I just talked to started
some of Jock's Posi haze, and said he
was very disappointed; some of his seedlings showed indica traits! But some
good news-two months ago, I heard from a grower in northern Florida. He had just
harvested some of Homegrown Fantasy's haze, and said it was the earliest haze
he had ever worked with. If I remember, it was around the end of Oct. HF's version
is at least a bigpart Posi haze, I'm sure. I'm afraid Nevil's haze wouldn't work
in your area as, I suspect, it won't finish until mid- December unless the NL
influence affects the flower time. Maybe Ot can clue us in further. I've thought of
growing on islands in swamps, but never on rafts. What happens if it storms or
floods? About the Early Pearl: since you're at the 30th, it would finish even earlier.
I'm not sure what intense, humid heat does to a finishing plant(I know what it does
indoors-and it ain't good)
Peace & Happy
Time -2:24, 26 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
OT1 and Budm: the peroxide I mentioned was 3% (supermarket/drugstore
version), because it's easy to get. I'd only use 1 ml/gallon with the 35%, using 11
ml/gallon of that might cause root damage. I should have been more clear. Plants
seem to like it.
Budm: I water to saturation (runoff),
and allow the plants to get dry to just the
point before the begin to droop before watering again. How soon that is depends
on the individual plant and its growth stage. You can see how metabolically active
a plant is by the speed it uses the water up. It also shows if it is rootbound (like
wanting more than one watering per day). All you can do is watch them, poke the
finger into the soil, that sort of thing.
Time -2:12, 26 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
67ed and OT1, re Haze: There are two reasons I'm after the haze. The first, is
that I have an outdoor area that I want to plant this summer. The area is a large
swamp, infested with bugs, snakes, and a few alligators (southern Alabama). The
season is long enough (earliest recorded first frost = Oct 20, normal first frost =
Nov 20). The season is actually a little longer at that particular local because it is
right on the water. I'm concerned about mold, and I think the loose bud structure
might be an asset in this case. I don't know if any of you caught the idea that was
proposed on the LM outdoor site. It was to grow in containers, floating on a
stryrafoam raft, watered by wicks. The idea was that this would make care easier
(no water hauling), throw off LEO (I've paid a lot of attention to what gets
"watched" around here, and they've never shown any interest whatsoever in the
swamp areas, while the forests and farmlands get quite a bit of scrutiny). I think
with organics, this could be as close as you can get to low maintenance outdoor
growing, making it easier for one man to take care of a fairly large grow. Strain
selection, because of the potential for mold, would be important. I'm also looking
at early pearl as a possibility. In this particular case, the early finish may be a
liability, as it would cause harvest to come right about the same time as the early
duck hunting season. Hidden well among the reeds, even tall plants wouldn't be
noticeable, because your field of vision on the ground is limited by the reeds. I
just would rather not be sharing the real estate with shotgun toting hunters. Since
I have the season length to work with, I think I'd rather grow the Haze. Both the
versions you guys mentioned sound good. Are you aware that Jock's advertises
posi haze (old original stock)? If it is the original, it is probably going to have a low
germination rate, due to its age, however, the price ($ 30/10 seeds) that I could
afford to get maybe 30 of them to start. Nevil's version sounds interesting as well,
although the purer version sounds a little better.
There is another reason I want to grow it (and several other sativas as
well). I have one shiske mother plant that has growth characteristics that I think
would tame down a haze, or other difficult sativa. It's very fast (6 weeks to the
day), very heavy, and has as close to an "up" high as I've ever seen in an almost
pure indica. On the negative side, while it is very short and branchy, it is very stiff
and brittle, so it is worthless for scrog, which is the method of growing I'm trying to
move towards. Here again, the sativa influence would complement it. I think this
might come out like a faster, heavier NL5xHaze, with more of the haze high
coming through. I realize that the shiske is not the most stable strain around, but
that gives more different variants in the offspring, and more chance to find "the"
plant in there somewhere. Then cube it. Seems like it could work. As always,
P.S. OT1: I don't know what happened
with the mail I sent you. I sent one time and
got an error message, resent and got a message saying it was sent. Most all I just
restated above, other than to say the pics were awesome, and looking forward to
the bonsai mom thing. Also that it seems like most smokers these days
(youngsters) have never really experienced a strong sativa, so that coming up
with a good one would really be something for most of them. The only real sats we
get here are mexican schwag (some of which is really not that bad). Most of the
indoor types here are sleepy indicas. I'd rather not pass around a pipe and have
everyone doze off in half an hour, really kills a party.
Well everyone, may visions of fat buds
dance in your heads!
Time 20:08, 25 Dec 1998
From 67ed (email@example.com)
Dr. Evil: Here's a description of Nevil's
Haze from Greenhouse(available at HS)
Ot1: I'm going to try and contact Neville and find out just how much NL is in this.
All I know so far is Nevil's haze seeds are very small. 9 are mottled, but the 10th
has an almost clear shell. Despite being a small part NL, this may be the closest
to what we're looking for. Once again, I ask for your comments?
Pedigree: Almost pure Haze with just a hint of Indica (Northern Lights).
Awards: Never entered in any competition.
Strength: The most potent variety of its kind on or off the market. Not
recommended for inexperienced smokers - too trippy - too profound.
Flowering Times: Indoors: should be started under 12 hours of lights. The
earliest will finish in 14 weeks (25%). Those that take much longer than this are
usually discarded as not practical.
Outdoors: should be grown in the Tropics + started just before the
on set of autumn. Yields are surprisingly good - the longer flowering time is
usually compensated with extra large yields, both in and outdoors. Not for the
novice smoker or grower.
Specifications: ~ Flower: 14 + weeks
~ Price: $175.00 (10 seeds) ~ Code: nh
Time 17:35, 25 Dec 1998
Hi all again, Im stuffed, the misses
did it up for the holiday dinner, and we had a
fine early Romberry desert:-)
Which brings me to the reason for the post, my girls are starting there 4th
week(flower), they are in 2gal pots, and im noticing due to a combo of flowering,
and well developed root systems, the soil is drying up much faster than B4. What
do most of you do as far as watering during bloom? I dont want to drown them,
and I dont want to hamper bud production! Thanks for the Help!!!
Time 15:15, 25 Dec 1998
Hi Dr Evil I didn't get a reply mail,
I use 4 litre pots as a finished pot size Num 7
was mostly 4ís but the square ones hold 5 litres. Num 7ís grow was cut on week
11 on 12/12 My grow was cut from wk 11 and the last out were the es at week 13
but they could have gone 2 or 3 weeks longer but were cut for Christmas, bad
timing on my part. The varieties are mostly my own. There may be descriptions at
BCGA archive of this site Vic posts the addy from time to time. My haze was
brought here [uk] from the states during its development it was still being
developed field scale and may not represent the finished product. From what I
have gleaned the nearest to the real thing on sale in Europe was sold by
Wernard of Positronics. After he went bankrupt his stock and seed Co was taken
over by Dutch passion / Home grown fantaseeds. Both these seed banks are run
by relatives. The thing is that the spec for their haze has been changed from
posies one in a big reduction on the finish time on 12/12. I suspect they have
made a cross to a non dom indica. The thing is if you want to grow real haze it
takes 12 to 16 weeks on 12/12 the very best being the late ones. The only other
Haze that may have some of the original one in could be Nevils haze but
greenhouse haven't published its spec yet but once again I suspect it will have
indica added we will see. Most the other so called haze are lambs breath and Thai
crosses. In fact in Holland haze has become a generic term for a sat with a strong
Thanks for the mention on anti-social.com I now have an addy which is
oldtimer1@ . When you were talking about H2O2 what strength were you talking
Budm glad you had that bit of Christmas magic, kind of makes life worthwhile.
All the best Ot1.
Time 13:42, 25 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Hello everyone, Merry Christmas!
OT1 - Likewise, thanks for the mail.
Very impressive set-up. I meant to ask you in
the return mail what sativas you're growing , but it slipped my mind. Also, were
those 2 gal. containers?
Budm: Happy to see you're having a good
holiday. Also that your transplant went
well. I stopped going by that tall vs. short thing. One of my shiske males was the
shortest normally flowering (one fem. autoflowered at about 8" and got pitched)
plant. It's also the widest of the bunch. It's the one I used for the big plum cross (it
also was comparatively flexible, for a shiske). I'd expect a sativa like that to run
kind of tall, anyway. Since you spotted it rapidly and transplanted, I'm sure there
is no long term harm done. May set them back a couple of days, but that will let
the others catch up height wise. From what I've seen, the roots do continue to
grow alot during flowering. I usually transplant right when I put plants under the
400w, give them a couple of days to show some good growth, then go to 12/12.
Got my first scrog crop set to go 12/12 tonight (Big Plum). Late Feb. harvest.
Good to hear your positive experiences with Richard. If I win the 1st place in
the fantasy football pool a bunch of friends and I have, I may be giving him an
order soon (in first with one week to go... fingers crossed).
P.S. everybody: Anyone have an opinion
on whose version of Haze is the best.
I've heard so many different stories about what its genetic background is, that I
think either there are many completely different plants being marketed as Haze,
or people just don't have much of a clue about what they're selling, so they make
something up, or a combination of both. Suffice it to say that I'm confused. I want
to try it, but I don't want to order the mutt of the pack. If I'm going to contend with
it's growth characteristics, I want the real deal. If anybody has some comments on
this, I'd appreciate it. Well, happy holidays
Time 12:30, 25 Dec 1998
Hi all. I hope everone is having a wonderfull
day, I am, a five year olds face is
MAGIC the moment they see there 1st bicycle:-))
Ot1 Thanks for the mail, you and your co-op have this newbie Awestruck!!Im
going to the archives to read again, I want to know more about your medium size
containers, pruning etc.
DrEvil, I did the Transplant this morning, Another JF that I thought would be male,
that went into a 1gal, truned out to show female today, so I had 2 to trans today. I
was only correct on one JF, that I put into 1gals,1 for 3 I wont assume Males by
hight again! Anyhow the 2 girls went into 4gal pots, these are unique pots, the
bottom is fine holes that have a water tray beneath the pot for "Bottom Watering"
they were 1/2 price at the garden store, so at the bottom I place 1" of pearlite
then the "SuperSoil mix"
so when the roots reach there they can have sort-of a hydro hybred setup. Do
the root systems continue to really grow agressivelly during 12/12?
On another Note Richard came through with my Peak19 and Western Winds
yesterday, Im stoked!! He is a great guy, When I heard he was getting Sag I told
him I wanted the two strains, then when they arrived and the time came to send
the coin, I wrote and told him, I was going to have to hold off till Jan, on the
WesternWinds, cause of my wife hellbent on exploding our Xmas budget, He sent
them both anyway,he said "I know you wanted them bad, so here you can start
them now, and pay when you can" What A killer Bro!!! Vic you picked a great Dist,
I must add that this comes after a few other transactions, And Richard Ill never
post this elsewere, I dont want you inindated with credit requests, and I deeply am
gratefull for the trust, and I would never violate it.Well im going to help the misses
with the dinner prep, my folks are in from Miami, It made for a great holiday, I
hope everyone had a great one also! Merry Xmas Everone!!
And Kenke Feliz~Navidad!!
Time 09:54, 25 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil (firstname.lastname@example.org)
about the e-mail screw-up. I left the - out of the domain name.
Anybody that tried to mail me before, please try again.
Vic: Interesting idea on hermie genetics.
It makes a lot of sense. I would imagine
that strains native to regions prone to weather extremes, or bad soil might be
more likely to having the "sexually flexible" plants being a larger proportion of the
gene pool, since this sounds like a natural survival mechanism. I think that most of
the big seed breeders have also not selected properly against this characteristic,
and continued indifference to this problem could wind up endangering the entire
gene pool if something isn't done. Thats why I'd rather get new stock through
some of the little guys, who I think as a whole are more diligent about producing a
superior plant. If your resources are limited, I think you are more likely to
concentrate on your best plants than to go for the big bucks and try to crank out
seeds by the truckload.
OT1: Sorry about the e-mail addy. New
domain and all. That domain provides free
web based e-mail, and isn't too pick about getting user information. Good anon.
as long as you always use proxies for access to it. Also, if you have unencrypted
traffic, a hotmail addy on an e-mail means "read this first" to LEO.
I couldn't agree more about using other plants for breeding besides the
hermies, although if you have no other seed from a rare or unusual strain, I think
my approach is valid (as is Vic's). I think the only time I could see going to the
trouble is to find a male for a back-cross to a related plant that is "special", and
then begin the selection process. I think I'd probably only do this to preserve a
wild strain, like Kenkeman's PR, or Eric's thai. Otherwise if would be faster and
more productive to find a stable male of another strain with complementary
characteristics and begin cubing that "special" plant. Interesting ideas about male
selection. Soon I'm going to build a small cabinet for pollenating female clones so
I don't have to use the brush technique, and will hopefully yield greater numbers
of seeds for selection. I've had good luck doing male plants a little differently. All
new plants from seed get at least two clones taken while in veg. To save space all
go in to a 5 oz solo cup for rooting immediately out of the aerocloner. All females
and one each of the males get transplanted up to larger containers in a week or
two, and one of each of the males stays in the small solo cups, root-binding them
and causing them to autoflower under 24 hr light. I then collect pollen, which they
continue to produce for quite a while, and not taking up much time or space while
doing it. Then I pitch the little clone, and do the same with a clone of "dad"
whenever necessary. Might be a good technique for small breeders. I'm still trying
Well everyone, its time to go sample
some of this blender hash (looks tasty, like
blond lebanese) and relax for a while.
Merry Christmas all
Time 09:50, 25 Dec 1998
VicHope your hols are going well, Colour
33 is what we call daylight or cool
white. They seem to be used as a standard in micro propagation labs here. I had
a chat on the quiet to a technician at the glasshouse crop research institute a few
years ago and he told me I was wasting my time using warm whites mixed with the
cool whites. Well Iíve got two 4 ft x 2 ft boxes and tried one against the other.
Consequentially haven't used warm whites for several years now.Did you
receive my emey with the close up pics? As far as hermies are concerned its a
survival thing I think breeding it out might be very difficult, making a strain more
stable and expressing it less often thats possible I think. Even males if stressed
then sprayed with GA will produce female flowers they don't seem to be able to
set viable seedand believe me I tried to do this ie make male only seed. It
seems to me to be a little more complex than just a gene or two but I have to say
Iím not bright enough to work it out.Our number7 got 1.283 k about 45
ounces from his 20 sq ft not bad for his first grow. I had just over 65 ounces from
mine I was a little disappointed because I was hoping to make 2 k. I would have
done it but 7 of the plants were not my genetics 2 were blueberry they averaged
18 g a piece and 5 were Mesadina x Gak they averaged 12 g a piece. It was my
fault they just got swamped by my vars even stood on upturned pots they just
disappeared under the canopy Iím surprised they produced what they did. Its
nearly lighting up time Iím off to look at my latest batch of babies.
All the best Ot1.
Time 08:11, 25 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Merry Christmas to all, hope all is going well.
OT1 - that was some great info on male
selection. I never new about the capitate
resin glands on the anthers. A new trick to do with the disssecting scope, woo
hoo! Thanks bud.
Dr Evil, I share your ideas on hermie
genetics. Say, another friend of ours, A1,
once had some interesting things to say on MJ sexuality. He said he figured that
there were three types of seeds, those that will grow up male, those that grow up
female, and those that can go either way, depending on growing conditions and
or chemicals presence. Well if you want to select against hermie traits it would
make sense to me to select against those intermediate plants that could go either
way. You would need to germinate 2 sets of seeds for this though. One set you
would germinate with all the tricks to promote females and then use the resulting
males left to search for the best males for breeding. I like OT1's methodsfor
this. Then with the second batch of seeds do all the tricks to promote pollen
production saving the females that don't go hermie as the stock to select the best
from. Alot of work, but should definately work. Although there is some out here
that disagree with me, I feel that the hermie trait is ever present even if not
expressed and we should be dilligent in selecting against it.
OT1 - The duel fluorescent tube thing
is just something that's been done in the
nursery and research trade for years. I have no complaints about the
performance of the cloning bench as a whole but I'll try those 33's when I buy new
bulbs in a few days. I hope they are called 33s here as well. I imagine I would
have more lumens per watt if I had cleaned those tubes a few times over the last
couple of years, haha. Amazing what you over look at times, haha. It just seemed
to work so I never thought about it.
Time 07:48, 25 Dec 1998
Hi Dr Evil have you got an email addy
that works I tried the one below and it
Time 06:50, 25 Dec 1998
Hi there Vic, I change my fluorescent
tubes once a year. When you relamp forget
the warm white just use colour 33 cool white and you will get a lot more lumens
per w. Seedlings, cuttings and mums all do better under the 33ís than the mix. Its
another myth that someone wrote and been replicated in every book and
Dr Evil I like your idea for selecting against hermaphroditism it sounds pretty much
in line with standard plant selection techniques and sounds like it would work. I
think I would prefer to start with a non hermaphrodite though. I think when
breeding only the very best should be selected not just any cross within a specific
type. Then as you go down through the generations constantly selecting the very
best and rejecting ruthlessly all others you end up with an improved strain. So
IMHO if there are some good males and rock solid females get the hermaphrodite
out of there and start from the good ones, this will save you three or four grows. A
couple of other thoughts If you are thinking of breeding make a backup copy of
every seedling you grow and keep them all even when you have taken out the
male seedlings from the main grow. Any females that show hermy traits destroy
the backup cuttings. If its only a few male anthers produced you can let the
seedling finish flowering a few seeds in your buds wont hurt unless your selling it.
But if proper full male flowers are produced pull it early and smoke it while you are
waiting for the rest to finish. As far as selecting males is concerned let them grow
until just before the first buds are about to open this takes practice and looking at
least twice a day. When they are ready to pop cut the plant and put it in a vase in
another room in a window behind a net curtain is fine. When the flower opens the
anthers will be hanging down at this stage you need a good hand lens x 10 and
down the folds of the anther between the pollen sacs you should see short
capitate resin glands the more the better just like a line of pearls any that don't
have dump their backup cutting. After about four hours the anthers pollen sack
will burst and should shed pollen once again if not dump. You can at this time test
if the pollen is viable take a tiny smear of pollen in your finger and gently touch a
few pistils on one of your ladies put a twist tie round the flower cluster and a small
label with dads number on. After 4 days any flower clusters where the pistils
haven't withered dump their backups.Dry the leaf tips and a few unopened
flower trusses of the males left in the vases and do a smoke test on each. I know
smoking leaves is not nice but you will find that some are quite potent these are
the boys you keep barring normal points of selection such as height form etc. I
thought I would bring male selection up as every one talks about female selection
and the males seem to be forgotten. Of course the final point for selection is how
good the progeny of a particular male is. An exceptional male is extremely
valuable as it can be used within a pure strainand for making F1 hybrids.
Budm That was a good thing you did for the folk let down by the seed banks, you
too Vic, I salute you both.
All the best Ot1.
Time 03:37, 25 Dec 1998
Just Curious if you are Old Timer (2)
I have posted to you back at cannabis kid's
seeds 10939 it may help sorry I cant help more.
I wish everyone here a great Crimbo. Ot1.
Time 14:37, 24 Dec 1998
From Just Curious
Anyone know anything about a hybrid developed
in the Pacific Northwest in the
1980's that was named "Velvet Rush"?
Time 14:32, 24 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Budm: Go ahead and transplant that JF.
If she's root bound already early in
flowering, she'll be miserable by the time she's done and likely be a waste of
space in your flowering area. Just be gentle while doing it, and don't be surprised
if she stops growing for a few days while she gets used to her new home. I've
found it helpful to water well, let sit for a while, repot using potting mix that is very
wet with a mild mix of whatever fertilizers you're using + some hydrogen peroxide.
11 ml per gallon of fert. mix, helps prevent damage caused by overwatering. Let
her get good and dry (but not drooping) before her next watering, then next
watering concentrate more of the water towards the outside of the pot. When
repotting, if extremely rootbound, gently squeeze the rootball a few times to
loosen it up. This causes some slght damage to the root system, which it will
repair by sending out more roots. It may set it back for a few more days, but will
do better later on. Until I got my new veg area set up, I got a lot of experience with
Time 11:32, 24 Dec 1998
To ALL my friends here I wish YOU and
YOUR families a safe and Merry
God Bless One and All
Time 10:19, 24 Dec 1998
Hi again all, Thanks to all of the replys,and
Vic thanks so much for the
Hospitality:-)) I love this place it has a much more Intimate feel, for certain
I have a question, I transplanted 4 weeks ago, a bunch of youngns.and a few of
the taller ones that I thought would be male, went to 1galpots, Now I was right
about most of the tall ones, the short ones went into 2gals, But today I identified in
a 1gal a nice JackFlash girl, she is just showing preflowers, my question is, can I
carefully place her into a 2gal, at this point? Shes about 16" in a SupSoilmix
6days into 12/12,Im sue shes rootbound as a JF male that I removed a few days
ago in a 1gal was rootbound big time,So im woundering if transplanting would risk
hermi.Please post your experiences.
Thanks and again Merry Xmas!
Time 09:42, 24 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Kenkeman: I think more than one gene
is involved in hermaphrodism. Some will
go hermie with no stress, and some need varying degrees of stress to "go to the
dark side". To me, that suggests that there are more than one gene, with an
additive effect. Say there are three genes involved (hypothetically). If those genes
are labeled S, T, and U, and hermaphrodism is a recessive gene (s, t, u), then
your possible outcomes are a combination of SS,TT,UU (totally not prone to
hermie), ss,tt,uu (totally hermie), and all the possible permutation in between. So
a seed with a hermie "dad" could be straight, hermie, or anything in between. I
suspect the only way to breed out this characteristic would be to start a lot of
seed, then intentionally strees them, select those that don't change teams, breed,
and then repeat the process for several generations.
Time 09:26, 24 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Budm: the cross I made was shiskeberry
x "big plum" (an originally accidental
cross between big bud and a b.c. plum bud). The shiske's have been ultra big
and fast (6 weeks to the day), but have very stiff, brittle stems, and thus are
unsuitable for scrog, which is the growing style I want to move towards. The big
plum is very heavy yielding, nice, sweet, floral, hasy flavored smoke with a very
"up" type of high. It also has very flexible stems. I'm just trying to see if I can get
the 8 wk flowering time down a bit, and keep or possibly improve the yield, while
keeping the other characteristics of the bp. Hopefully there will be something in
the first seedlings that approaches those goals. I also did a shiske x bubbleberry
(f2) cross. The jury is still out on the bubbleberry mom. I tried using the 16/12
lighting schedule on that room, and she decidedly didn't like it. Stayed in a blend
of veg and flower growth and got huge. Now she's under 12/12 and seems to be
fattening up nicely. I pitched all but one clone of her, thinking she was going to
turn out to be shwag. If she continues on her current course, I'll be glad I kept that
one last clone of her (I always keep at least one till I get to smoke some from
mom). I also have a couple of different shiske moms. The fastest and fattest of
the bunch looks like she might be just the thing to cross with a high power sativa,
to tame its growth characteristics. One of the others has an interesting smell/taste
(apple blossoms), and was the second highest yielder. The shiske's may not be
the most stable strain on earth, but an interesting genetic grab bag with a lot of
good characteristics to work with.
By the way, I didn't mean to imply that
I start seedlings under the hps. I use the flo
cabinet until 6-8", then go to the hps. Watt for watt, the hps runs cooler, but the
seedlings like the extra blue/ lower intensity of the flo's. P. S. if you aren't cloning
those babies, it will mean adding a lot of delay time to your new setup, and small
clones are very easy to move. I'd just hate to see all of those great genetics get
lost. The aerocloner took me all of 1/2 hour to build (quicker than a trip to the
grow store, how's that for lazy :) )
Vic: 4 year old tubes? Yup, I'd say it's
time for replacement. You'll probably be
surprised at the difference in light level.
Kenkeman: I have no experience with niagra,
but being primarily an outdoor plant,
I think Eric has a point about light level. As to the seeds, well, I hope you have
enough for a few for me, but being the newbie here, and that the supply is very
limited, I understand if I didn't "make the cut". Just wanted to mention that I'm not
after something for nothing. I don't have a collection like many of the people here,
but it is all available for trade, given enough advance notice to root clones where
Eric: Hope you found something useful
in those links. I'll keep looking for more.
When checking those out, I found that many of my old links on the subject were
now dead so now I have to look for more. Sounds like we are not too far apart
geographically. Clue-- "Waaar Eeeagle, Hey". If a football fan you'll understand.
How's the thai doing?
Everybody: Glad I got my proxies worked
out, seeing the half a conversation with
"the hacker" over the past day.
Coming to you all from Zimbabwe today (how's that for making a trace into a
Time 08:56, 24 Dec 1998
Just a small question:If I have a hermie
with seeds would those seeds be
hermaphrodites as well?If hermaphrodism is a trait caused by stress then it
shouldn't be passed down.Am I right?just curious!
Time 08:52, 24 Dec 1998
RED WIDOW!!!Now that sounds interesting.Just
the tought of it
sounds fantastic.or how about Northern Red, or Red Commie, or Romulan
Red!the posibilities are endless. I must work on these!!!
Time 08:02, 24 Dec 1998
I didnt get romulan suprise
I got strawberry blond/ Romulan
and princess/ romulan
but no i have not. I will mail you more
on the subject later.....but you have mail
from me now
Time 07:58, 24 Dec 1998
How much light is your friend using on these Niagra?
Yes they will fattin up until the start to die
5% is normal..they will grow and die
until they all start to die. Some straind i have
seen growing you can wait until all hairs are dead ...but that is a good rulew of
thumb...some folks keep a close eye on the resin glands.
for myself it is an overall plant picture
on EVERY determination made about it.
Take into consideration how long it has been flowering. How fast they are
maturing, what the hairs look like (growing, dieng) what the resin glands look like.
temperature outside and really everything...but it all comes along eventually.
Kenkeman> I will mail you a cross with the white widow.....RED WIDOW
Time 07:55, 24 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Eric - good comments on the flos. I've
had excellent results starting seedlings in
my cloning bench (4 - 4' flos, 2warm, 2cool) and under the 430HPS. I did need to
watch the ones under the 430HPS but they did very well. An added bonus is that
they showed preflowers sooner to speed up sexing without slowing growth by
switching back and forth between 12/12 and 18/6 or cloning for sex. With the flos,
I need to keep the seedlings within 8" of the flos to prevent excessive stretching.
Say ..... I just realized that my flo tubes are about 4 years old ... do they have a
useable life span? anyone?
Eric - one more thing. Did you ever grow
those romulan suprise seeds of mine
that you got from bongblaster? Looking for feedback.
Budm - your conversations with the doc
are more than welcome, as are any grow
related posts. I think the other old timer posted that he had no interest in bcga,
but hears the URLs:
this chat page:
Time 07:22, 24 Dec 1998
Hi All, First a question to Vic in 2
parts,1) Can you please list this "private site
addy" as I was trying to tell Okldtimer(notOT1) at cancom how to get here, and
lazy me has only been comming here, the way I first got here, through
Richards,LOL:) Now that is LAZY all these months,Creatures of habit, no
creatures of Lazyness!!:-)) 2) I have been posting back and forth with DrEvil,
(Seems we have lots in common)Is this ok? As the last thing I want to do is be a
DrEvil. Hi and yea, I have the extra powerehead,and heater but im moving in May,
so ive negated the idea of really getting into cloning, till im in the new crib.In my
infinate laziness I think im going to buy a clone machine, its just like the WBase
mach, it comes in 3 sizes, the small table top model I want is I think 24sites
aeroponic, and is under 100usd.Its from the folks at AmericanAgriTech at
They have some nice systems and such, they also own Sea of green in AZ. I cant
wait till I can use the blender:-)
Well I have a bicycle to assymble for Jr, so I got to run! A Merry Xnas To All!!!:)))
PS DrE, What did you Cross?
Time 07:13, 24 Dec 1998
Hey all!Just a quick question.My niagara
plants are 4 weeks into
flowering.They have decent buds but I expected more and
thicker.Will they thicken and grow during the last four weeks?I
noticed that some, although a small amount (5%) starting to turn brown.I will
wait till they turn about 80%.Well, for those who asked for the red I have
them all packed up and ready to head out on monday.
Didn't have many but everyone got enough to start a good crop.
Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo a Todos!!!!
Time 07:08, 24 Dec 1998
when you move them to the veg room you
can plug that flouresent into that room
and you will have added light
Time 07:07, 24 Dec 1998
I think you will come out better with flouresents on the seedlings than
a 70whatt HPS. the 70hps will put out more heat ..drying your seedling medium
out faster and you will have to keep a closer eye on them so they dont grow into
it. With the flouresent ( go to a hardware store and get the ones that are 4 feet
long and they just plug into the wall socket) your medium will stay more moist, it is
plenty of light for them ( My friend has those lights on his clone tub and then once
roots show just moves them to different flouresents until they are like 12" tall...so
its enough for them)
You dont have to worry about your young
plants growing into the tubes..they dont
burn. Then when they are about 6" tall you can move them to your veg room.
Time -3:09, 24 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Budm: Wow, I envy the hell out of your
genetic selection. You out to find plenty of
things in there to put a smile on your face :) . From what I've seen, and
experienced not all that long ago, newbie anxiety is pretty normal. Sounds like
you're on the right track. Next project you may want to consider, given your wealth
of genetics, is breeding. Just harvested my first (intentional) seeds, and can
hardly wait to start them. Not very many, but enough to get an idea of whether or
not the cross I made was worthwhile. If it proves to be good, I still have clones of
both mom and dad, so I can recreate it. The idea of coming up with something
unique is really appealing to me.
P.S. Another thing you may want to try first is getting your cloning technique
worked out. I had big problems with it at first. Building the aerocloner that is on the
LM site completely solved that problem. I recommend it highly. I have only lost 1
clone in the past few rounds of cloning, and that was through a stupid mistake on
my part. If your a aquarist, you you probably have a spare powerhead (and a
decent submersible heater makes a nice addition as well, if you keep the cloner in
a cool room like I do). I use a 23w compact flourescent to light it. Growing from
clones is definately the way to go, keeps you from having to waste space in your
flowering room on males and substandard plants. Well, gotta go, I'm trying to
make blender hash (from Shiva's recipe). I usually make brownies with my shake,
but I've always loved good hash.
Time 19:34, 23 Dec 1998
Hi, DrE, My Veg is auctually a bath tub
with glass shower doors, so its about 5'X 2'
aprox. The flower is half a bedroom closet(Sound Familar)its only2'X 3.5' so I
guess,im about 40 in veg,and 55 flower, Ive only been at this since Oct.So alot of
anixiety and nervous questions, Im starting to really relax, especially cause these
Roms are so damm strong and hardy! It was a great way to "Get my Wings". Ive
learned so much in the past couple of months.Im following in your foot steps
more than you think, today I was looking at 70hps's for a small seed starting area,
my wife wants to kill me!
Thank god for mad money slush funds! LOL:) Next week im going to start
AK47,Peak19,WesternWinds and Ingmars Punch(WWXSkunk) about 4 of each. I
have in veg now Jackflash(this looks very Hazey) SuperChrystal (short,stocky
bluegreen) NL(Aloha) AF#1 (Aloha) and BigBud (Aloha), I had
Cottoncandy(MarcE) but both were male! When I cut teeth, I cut teeth. You should
have seen when I jumped into Saltwater Reef Tanks 7 years ago.(Still at
them).Any way enough shooting off at the mouth!
Be safe and Merry Xmas!
Time 14:03, 23 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Budm: Kind words, but I'm a relative
newbie myself (especially compared to many
both here and at LM). Sounds like our setups are somewhat similar. I use 1 400w
mh and one 400w hps. I have 2 identical 8 square foot closets with these lights,
both used for flowering, plus a smallarea in another part of the house, with
3 70w hps' for veg. and moms, as well as a small cabinet area with flo's for
starting seeds. I currently hand water soil-less (Sunshine pro mix + perlite and
dolomite) with GH. I'd consider growing organic, if it weren't for the close proximity
I live with my plants. I've made my share of sacrifices for the comfort of my plants,
and having manure teas brewing in my bed room is just a bit too much for me.
I also rotate lights between rooms like you are planning to do, and I like the
results. How much square footage are you using your lights with? I get good bud
density with 50w/sf with the 400's employed the way you are planning.
Romulan surprise, huh. Sounds like the dinner menu at a star trek
convention (although bound to be much tastier than banquet food) :) . Bound to
be something interesting in there.
Everyone: Although I don't intend to
go completely organic any time soon, for the
reasons mentioned above, I do have a question. Recently I found out a friend has
started doing research at the local university on bats, which are producing guano
literally by the truckload. I can have as much as I care to haul away. I'm wondering
how I might mix an organic mix for my mother plants using this, plus, preferably
the sunshine mix, and whatever easily available organic products I can get in this
area. No castings seem to be available, but bone, blood, and cottonseed meals
are available, as are chicken and steer manures. Any guidance would be helpful.
I'd like to learn more about organics for an outdoor set-up this summer also (I
think the lower maintenance is appealing). Thanks all
Time 11:42, 23 Dec 1998
Vic, By "The Sexing 12/12" I ment that
I have two closets, Roms in the flower
w/400hps, and the other is five Dutch strains w/400mh, Roms are 3weeks into the
flower cycle, The Dutch's are in about 5 week veg 19/5, So when rom is at 6
weeks, im going to turn the veg to 12/12, so when the 400hps becomes
available(Roms Finished), the dutch will be 2 weeks 12/12, I can remove males,
and introduce HPS, before any real bud growth is in need of the mixed spectrum,
and really needs the benifit of 800watts. Sounds like a good planhuh?
Time 09:41, 23 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Budm - I must be loosing it, I think
I remember answering this last night, haha. You
should get a good growth spurt during weeks 5-6 but don't harvest until week 8
for best results. Your best results will come from combining the two light sources. I
didn't really understand what you were trying to say about putting into 12/12 for
sexing them ? It may be that I just haven't had my morning coffee yet :)
As for my comments about "ROMULAN" not
being the best clone in our (private)
email, I just meant that there are some other clones in there that are just as
potent and unique if not more so. This really means nothing about new releases
as it is a long road from having a killer clone to having a credible seed line. I was
lucky in that both romulan and blueberry were fairly stable genetics so making
romberry was easy. My next project will be a romulan/grapefruit hybrid of which I
was hoping to be testing out the prototype romulan/sweet tooth by this time.
However the suprises have gotten in the way and I have no idea who sired what
so all seeds are now worthless for my breeding projects. The only possible
release may be the romulan suprise, but I want to grow out a test crop first to be
Time 09:00, 23 Dec 1998
Vic, I did not mean in the previous post
that you use 400's I meant that you use
MH & HPS together in the flower room. thats why after the Roms are finished w
the 400hp.Its in together w the400mh,to flower the Dutch's, I figure the MH
12/12 for the fiest 2 weeks to sex and let the hps finish up the Roms in the flower
is the way to go, I just priced a combo air cooled hod from Sunlight supply, to put
the 2 400's in, at 99$us it sounds like a wort wile expenduture. Any comments?
Cause after this grow ill have enough stash cause I only grow for personal stash,
Im going to a mh/hps combo hood, with one closet, as I have not tried cloning yet,
but when we move this summer I may get a small mh to set up a "Mom"
situation.Thanks for entertaining my newbie ramblings!
Time 08:07, 23 Dec 1998
Dr Evil, Thanks for your reply, Its nice
to see you here as well as there!
I read all of your posts,and am humbled by them,this is my first go at grow, and I
was a bit nervous at only having a 400mh for veg, and a400hp for bloom, as soon
as the Roms finish im putting the hps in the veg closet to combine w/mh for 800, I
have five Dutch strains in week 3-7, waiting for the light, I figure that ill go 12/12
two weeks B4 the Roms finish, as I heard the Hps con reall start in week 3 12/12,
so that will get them sexed, and let the Roms finish, anyone (I know Vic Does) use
Hps and Mh in the 400 range, Im hoping for nice density. This hobby has a lot of
"Husbandry Chores" like my salt water
reef wet/dry system, lots of work, but oh so much satisfaction!:))
Vic, You say your "overgrown with killer
clones, of which Romberry is no
longer the best(sic)" Would you mind elaborating? If its sensitive to a new release
I fully understand.Merry Xmas to all & a High New Year!!
Time -1:29, 23 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
flowers that size at 3 weeks I'd call pretty damn good. They have a
long way to go, and many growth spurts before harvest. You'll see.
Time -3:17, 23 Dec 1998
Hi all, Vic or anyone, My Roms are about
3weeks into flower, is there a certain
period that they experience a growth spurt, and add bud size weight? like 7-8
week? They are about 1.75inches and kinda narrow now, sorry to sound so
impaitent, its the first time around the block. Thanks and Merry Xmas.
Time 19:40, 22 Dec 1998
Time 17:27, 22 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Try thes links Eric
Good free publications available here:
That should keep you busy for a while
Time 14:04, 22 Dec 1998
From ERIC CARR
If you have anymore links on the subject of aquaponics I would
LOVE to have them. This is like the set-up that Vic desricbed of breeder steve.
Time 14:00, 22 Dec 1998
From ERIC CARR
There are many fish farms here in Mississppi. It is becoming the
biggest crop here next to cotton and corn. Thanks for the addy.
Vic>>> Most fish ponds here are average
12 acres each..they usually stock them
5,000 head per acre. Feeding is done with tractor and buggy. The feed DOES
have additives..but not all of it. You only use the medicine feed when the fish are
sick. The rest of the time the average feed contains fish and cow byproducts with
added oils and grain.
Time 13:53, 22 Dec 1998
Vic you got male Bro. Ot1
Time 09:45, 22 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
much of the problem with additives in fish feed have been reduced in
the past few years (at least in the U.S.). It takes FDA licensing to use most
antibiotics in food fish, and only may be used under certain circumstances. I
guess they decided it would look bad if the fish glowed in the dark at the market
:). Most farmers have found it more cost effective to control the stress factors
which cause the diseases than to try and treat after the fact. As to the amount of
waste produced, consider this. Most fish feeds are around 30% protein. All
proteins are 16% nitrogen by weight (due to the amine group in the amino acids).
That gives you a graphic idea of the N content of the waste (and an idea of how
much N an aquaponics system circulates). I think this is really the "wave of the
Time 09:08, 22 Dec 1998
From Vic High
anons - obviously if you are taking the
time to post, you want to be heard. The
problem is that by posting anon, we feel you don't really believe what you have to
say and therefore disregard what you have to say. No name leaves us to believe
that you simply want to stir the shit. If you REALLY believe in what you have to
say you should have no problem saying who you are. In my early net days, I made
the mistake of posting an anon warning about a young fella (minor) called Jack. I
felt like a total heal and chicken shit for doing it and vowed that I would always put
my name to my posts from that point forward.
As for BB selling me the real deal, I'm
not saying that he did or didn't, only BB
knows the truth there. I'm just saying that the evidence seems to speak for itself.
And for the record, that RSB is the best all around weed that I've grown from
seeds that I've purchased. And yes, that includes both batches of blueberry that I
bought from Marc Emery and the Dutch Passion durban poison that I bought from
The Amsterdam Cafe.
Time 08:46, 22 Dec 1998
From Vic High (email@example.com)
Seasons Greeting to all. Budm, it's guys
like you that make this a friendly place.
Kenkeman - please email me if you can.
I don't have your addy. Just want to talk
about seed sending/recieving safety.
Dr Evil - thanks for coming out. It's
good you got your security in check first, you
can never be too safe. I'll just make a quick note. My non proxy surfing will be
coming to an end soon so time is running out on those highly skilled hackers
amongst us, LMAO. I think my point has been made. Without large amounts of
money and judges in your back pocket, ISP numbers mean Jack Shit. Even
without a proxy, one of the hackers traced me to some area (walla walla was it?)
in the US when I'm actually surfing from Vancouver Island in Lower BC, Canada.
LMAO again! That said, I still believe in safe surfing as an added precaution.
Anyways Dr, good to have ya. I know what
you mean about all the waste from the
fish farms. I did a 4 month term working with atlantic salmon and you wouldn't
believe the mountains of crud that builds up under the pens. Good fishing around
fish farms though, haha. Alot of the waste was unused food. We fed the fish every
hour I believe to the point where they simply wouldn't eat any more so lots fell
through. Definately a good untapped resource sitting there. The only concern is
all the chemicals that are in the fish feeds. I think I recall them being full of
antibiotics and other chemicals designed to keep the fish disease free. It's been a
few years so I'm not totally clear on the details.
Time -3:50, 22 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil
Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. This is the first I've posted
here, but have been lurking for quite some time. I've posted on and off at the LM
site for about the last six months or so, so some of you may recognize me from
there. I wanted to work out some security/ anonimity issues before posting here (I
don't really trust ISP's much). Other than the occasional nameless hackers and
flamers, this is a great site with a lot of interesting information. All the regulars
seem to get along.
I've followed the discussions on aquaculture/aquaponics with some
interest, as it relates to my field of training. I believe that most of the large fish
farms will go to a system of this type eventually, because the amounts of
nitrogenous wastes produced by intensive fish farming operations will dictate that
some sort of treatment will become necessary for environmental reasons. Already
some states in the U.S. require treatment of pond effluents, and the federal
government is proposing legislation to require it nationwide. So look for the
technology to expand dramatically in the next several years. One tank of tilapia
20ft in diameter and 4ft deep, stocked to max density produces as much
nitrogenous waste in a year as a town of 3000 people, so you can see the
magnitude of the problem for large fish farmers. However, fish farmers have
started to realize that nitrogen is a resource, not a waste, so some farming of
plants, especially lettuce, which eats nitrogen like there is no tomorrow is starting
to become commercially viable. Here's a link to start reading into the subject--
This is a general aquaculture site, with many intersting links. By the way, when
searching for info on this subject, aquaculture generally refers to fish farming,
where aquaponics refers to fish/plant farming together.
Time -3:45, 22 Dec 1998
I just Wanted to say the nicest people
on the web, reside here!! Happy Holidays
and a High New Year To All!!!!!
Time 17:09, 21 Dec 1998
From Dr. Evil (firstname.lastname@example.org)
I'd be very interseted in trading a couple of different varieties of
clones I have for any of the Panama Red seeds you could spare. If interested
please e-mail me. I also have a sentimental attachment to it (first weed I ever
Time 15:26, 21 Dec 1998
Niagara report!Well, my plants are doing
ok.Only 3 good female
plants out of 15.Not good odds but I believe that I need to get better at
growing them.I might have stressed them.Of the 15 i got 5 hermies.
Well, I have decided from my next batch will be done outdoors.I
haven't tried them yet but they look pretty nice.I will take some the red
seeds and grow them.Maybe in the future I can cross my Niagara with the
Red.Both are sativas but the Red has great growth potential as well as a
good yield.Has anyone out there grown Niagara?Just curious!
Well, Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo!
Time 14:41, 21 Dec 1998
Kenkeman, I grew up in Miami, in the
70s-80s and the Pans. and SantaMartas of
Red or Gold, have a real sentimental
soft spot with me. Please email me, moneys tight(Xmas & Children)but I have a
nice inventory, from 6 top breeders, please write for details! Thanks and merry
Time 08:20, 21 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Naughty - hey thanks for the offer, that's
very generous of you. Right now I'm
way over run with seeds and if I was to accept your offer, it would only be out of
greed. I'm sure there are others here in far greater need than me. Thanks again
for the thought though.
Well, I just finished reading the Nov/Dec
issue of Cannabis Culture. Many things
there caught my eye. First was the picture of emery's version of romulan bud.
Even at that early 2 week stage I can see that it is very different from mine. Cool!
We have two versions of romulan out there now, haha. If history proves correct,
Emery's enhanced exposure should mean that his romulan will become the world
standard for romulan. So what should I do with mine? Change the name? Market
it as the Romulan original? It is from a 20 year old true breeding clone, so
maybe Classic Romulan, haha. I don't want to get into a pissing contest with
Emery as I'm sure his version of romulan is also quality genetics and in the big
picture it really doesn't matter. As long as the genetics getsb spread around.
What surprises me is how far that picture
of his romulan is from the real deal.
Romulan genetics are very dominant, so much so that many plants of the first
backcross look quite a bit like mom. Much more so than that picture in CC. The
male he used in his backcross must have been one hell of a dominant stud.
The other thing that caught my attention
was the Spice of Life ad and it's claim
that Bongblaster doesn't carry SOL stock. Now I've puchased Sweet Tooth (ST)
and romulan/strawberry blonde (RSB) from bongblaster, and in high enough
quantities to know if they were somewhat legit. Well both batches showed
enough uniformity and uniqueness to convince me that they came from a
knowledgeable breeder. I should check my notes, but of the first 50 seedlings, I
don't think I found a hermie; and my grow room has enough stress to expose
any hermie tendancies. When I met with Steve he confirmed the ST transaction
that put those seeds in my hands. He also mentioned that the RSB wasn't really
a cross that he did when I started asking him about his romulan source. He didn't
say that it was bogus genetics though, just that he didn't do the actual cross. I
got the feeling that they were being marketed through him though with his
permission. Being as stoned as we were it was hard getting direct questions and
answers, haha. Despite that ad in CC, I just thought that I should go on the
record as saying that I'm confident that BB sold me what I was asking for.
Sometimes politics and personalities can get in the way of the truth, and
sometimes the truth gets bent as a result. Just MHO.
Time 08:07, 21 Dec 1998
KenKeman>>>>>>yup...me too. email@example.com
Time 07:25, 21 Dec 1998
E-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org, maybe we can discuss a trade.
Time 06:26, 21 Dec 1998
Hey 67ed and others,
The red just came in.Looks and tastes
real nice.Smaller buds than
years before but nice red hairs throughout.A little more moist this year
than last and the gold sets a nice background for the red and green.Taste
is kinda mild with a good solid head buzz for about 3 to 4 hours.Doesn't
get you tired afterwards..I was only able to get a little but the little I got had
some seeds.Maybe 30 to 50 per half pound.anyone interested in
trading leave a message here.
Time 17:54, 20 Dec 1998
From Naughty (Naughty_62@hotmail.com)
Hey vic i`ve got an over abundance of
eggs that i am willing to donate to the
cause iv`e got (1) ak47 x ak47 indica domited strain (serious) (2) ak47 x ak47
sativa dominated strain (serious) (3) ak47(serious) X nl#9 (sag)..if you are
interested just let me know.... i can send you 30 of each if you need
Time 08:28, 19 Dec 1998
From Vic High
pie we are talking similar dimensions.
There are about 10K watts of lighting in a
space that size. Problem is that many of the lights are on suncircles and
therefore can't be cooled. Couple that with a tar and gravel roof and heat is a
major problem in the summer.
I used to think that having air cooled
hoods on a track would be more efficient.
I've now been playing with two seperate setups with tracks/rails and IMO, the
tracks don't even come close to the suncircle for efficiency. The increased
efficiency of the suncircles by far out weighs the added ventilation costs
involved. Granted, tracks and rails are much easier to arrange and maintain
your plants under, haha.
Pie - speak up with your thoughts please.
It's how we learn, whether right or
wrong. Besides, its always good to clean the old feet every now and then
Time 07:38, 19 Dec 1998
i have some diff thought on these issues
and will do a little experimenting before
i stick my foot in my mouth. am interested in knowing how big of a space you are
talking about. I believe my current flowering/veg room and future veg room
bombined are about 500 to 600 sq ft total. this info will help me size my blower!
Time -1:29, 19 Dec 1998
From Lady J
I have used wind simulation (large floor
fans) for the last year or so and since
then have had NO problem with mites, fungus gnats, mold or fungi. I believe in
prevention rather than cures. Not to mention it builds strong plants that rarely
need physical supports.
Time 19:05, 18 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Damien - all that I've read on avid states
clearly not to use it with soaps or other
surfactants. If you must use it, I would use as per the directions. The version we
get here under the counter is either 15-20 drops per gallon or 5 drops per
gallon depending on the source. Personally, unless your garden is a perpetual
harvest setup, I wouldn't use it. I would spray soap up till the last week or two,
harvest, and then sterilize the room. When not spraying soap, regular sprayings
with plain water to knock mites off plants and increase humidity help keep them
Budm - thanks for the kind words. I hope
those dutch genetics make up in bud
quality what they lack in vigour. I've been on the net since last spring and I must
admit that it has been responsible for many changes in my garden. I had two
strains back then, now I have over 30. While my knowledge and genetic base
has been greatly enriched by being here, I have also made some good friends.
Peter - that intake isn't working on
it's own, haha. Sorry to confuse the situation.
My initial ventilation setup consisted of two 10" dayton (~560cfm?) fans, one
intake, one exhaust. Since I use suncircles, controlling summer temps has
always been a problem and those two fans just didn't cut it. I picked up a 960
cfm blower as my exhaust and kept the 10" dayton as the intake. Well last
summer my temps still kept hovering around 40 celcius (even with two air
conditioners) so I picked up another 960cfm blower to replace the 10 dayton as
the intake. What a difference! Temps instantly dropped to 30 celcius and have
remained there ever since. The blower on the intake greatly increases the
efficiency of the exhaust.
Pie - I too pay attention to the air
pressures of the rooms. My veg and
production flower rooms are adjoined. I now have one of the 960cfm blowers
pushing air into the flower room along with one of the 10" daytons. I have vents
and a 10" dayton allowing the air to exhaust from the flower room into the veg
room. From the veg room, the other 960cfm blower pushes the air to the
outside. This keeps the flower room at a higher pressure than the veg room to
try and prevent pollen from travelling from the veg room to the flower room. One
dowside to this setup is that air leaks from the flower room, and odours can leak
with them. This is another reason I keep the ozone generator in the flower room.
Time 17:08, 18 Dec 1998
imagine your room as a balloon with a
bunch of small holes. if you blow up the
balloon you have air going in a million diff directions and you have to work like
hell to blow it up.
when i live in fla my house had a whole
house exhaust fan. i could open different
windows throughout the house and exhaust any room i wanted to or the whole
house if i wanted. i seldom had to use my air conditioner and it worked so good
at night that i froze my ass off.
Time 17:00, 18 Dec 1998
i would think that the exhaust should be pulling all the air out of a room.
my reasoning ...
- if you push air than the path of least
resistance is where the air is going to go.
if you have any kind of room leaks the air (positive pressure) will find them.
- if you pull air from the room you create
a negative pressure in the room and
YOU can dicatate where the air is going to go which means you can treat the
smell via a predetermined air flow path before it exits.
Vic, i may be wrong but it seems like
you had a positive pressure in your room
and unless you had a perfectly sealed room you would have air leaks that would
allow untreated air to escape prior to being deodorized.
if anyone has had a whole house exhaust
fan which is pulling the air out of the
house and into the attic you will know waht i am talking about. the amount of
exhaust and subsequent air movement can be regulated by proper sizing of the
exhaust fan and by metering the intake. a rule of thumb if i remember right is
your intakeprofile should be 3 times your exhaust.
Time 16:49, 18 Dec 1998
peter they make adapters but they're
kinda pricey.tin snips and soup cans work
good enuff for me
Time 15:55, 18 Dec 1998
Hi Vic, and Co. My Roms enter there 3rd
week flower today, gawd there are so
many bud-sites, Vic these girls blow away all of my 5 other Dutch strains, as far
as, they are Like 'Arnold Shawrtzneger" and my Dutch's are "Danny DeVitos"
Imean they are THICK and Meaty.
Im fully impressed, Vic thanks once again for making these quality genetics
afforadable. I read you paid over 20$ per bean for Sag blueberry,big money!
Any way I moved 2 Jack Flash's and one Cotton Candy, into the Flower
Chamber today, to keep the Roms company, I must say for my first grow, things
are working out great. I have alaways bit off large chunks of any hobby I start.
Like 7 years ago, when I set up my Mini Reef saltwater tank, I went into it like a
mad man, had to read 3 books cover to cover, before I even knew what I had
bought!(those salesmen loved me!) Im just one of those people I guess. Like
now my seed inventory has stock of 10 strains, from5-6 breeders. Thats me
what can I say, other than thanks cause with out you guys, all I would have is Mel
Frank and Ed R. And some of there stuff is outdated, and hard to understand.
The web has a major part of my sucess formuler.
Time 14:16, 18 Dec 1998
trelaway, yes those are axiomatic, my
question is dealing more with
understanding how the squirrel cage blower (key word=BLOWER) is used as an
INTAKE fan. I've often wished i could use my Dayton to push air in the opposite
direction. i still dont understand how the light hoods that come with the adapter
for dryer tubing to take the heat AWAY from the bulb are supposed to work, If
you use a BLOWER. Ive always had to resort to using whats known as 'Robin
Hood" fans. Basically just a little fan that is able to attach tubing to both ends so
that you can transfer air from room to room or inside/outside. Main problem with
these is that they arent pushing enough CFM's to be REALLY effective. I've
always used the BLOWERS to exhaust air through the ceiling. Any input will be
appreciated though. Do they sell adapters or hoods for the blowers?
Time 07:35, 18 Dec 1998
well..even if he got predator mites I
dont think they will have time to make a
difference before the flowers finish...
flowering 18 days today. lady bugs are abbundant for this year ..here you can
go look in any corner of just about any structure (shed, dog house, your house)
and get 10 or so...if you look all around with something to put them in you can
find lots fast. That would be the best route. If they arent everywhere there like
they are here. I would look at the damage they are doing and decide if I wanted
to spray with a SAFE solution or let it go..drop the temperature down in the room
if you want to slow them down a bit and speed up the flowering...
Time 00:10, 18 Dec 1998
How bout predator mites? There's a link
at the BCGA site to mail order them.
Time -1:22, 18 Dec 1998
ok guys a question....i am budding blueberry,
strawberry gold, and a #2
which is very indican large leaves... sparse nodes though... but anyway i am in
trouble.. i have mites (plants sre budding dec 1st)and i had an avid
soultion all ready... i diluted the soulion to 1/4 strength even less and used a bit
of soap too..... should this help??? i sprayed a few of the plants under the
leaves... and i am slowly praying..
Time 19:35, 17 Dec 1998
All intake means is that it pushes air
into the grow. Where you mount the fan is
optional. An intake fan is of secondary importance to the exhaust fan.
Time 16:04, 17 Dec 1998
vic, how does the blower act as an intake?
do you have it mounted outside the
grow? isn't it supposed to be the other way around? i'm interested becuse i want
to hook up an intake also
Time -2:45, 17 Dec 1998
Budm, I'm glad to hear the link is cool.
I've never ordered thru them because I
can buy ona locally but it wuz the only link I could find and I've been giving it out
for months. I've been using the two hundred gram blocks, slicing a chunk off and
putting it on a plate near some air movement. I've been getting five weeks
out of one block. Its been working so well I have to visually check the kitty litter.
Time -3:33, 17 Dec 1998
From Vic High
peter - intake is a 960 cfm dayton squirrel cage blower.
trelaway - WCB will have all the info
you need. That is where I went. Hospital and
deli workers are just a few of the members of the work force that experience long
term exposure to ozone.
justice - yep I recieved an email recently.
I wanted to reply with a date but my
schedule keeps changing on me. Pre christmas rush and all. Hope to catch you
before you head back.
Time 19:00, 16 Dec 1998
hey all what's growin on?
i've been thinking again about a small venture forth into the world of organic
hydro... so far all my exp. has been soil. i'm thinkin nft, anybody do this? what do
i need to set it up? i have a 250w mh and i'm doing this inside a refridgerator!!
it's got a nice seal, white inside, and pretty incognito wouldn't you say?
hey so yeah, homemade ozone generators!
vic- have you received my email the last few were returned i don't know if the last
one has gotten through?
thanks to anybody who can help me out with the NFT thing,
Time 18:18, 16 Dec 1998
Hey Trelaway, Thanks I just placed a
smallorder with that Co. for the odor
remover, and some other odds and ends, real nice folk there, and they work with
Money orders, Thank You!!
Time 16:36, 16 Dec 1998
Anyone know of literature/websites with
info on long term exposure to low levels
of ozone? I couldn't find any when I went looking, only discussion on safe levels
but no mention of safe levels in relation to years of exposure.
Time 11:09, 16 Dec 1998
vic, what exactly does your "intake"
Time -3:19, 16 Dec 1998
From Vic High
Budm - It amazes me how many people complain
about how stinky romberry is.
Be glad your not growing romulan, now that is stinky weed, haha. Anyways, I
place my ozone generator in my growroom near the intake. I used to have it
placed near the exhaust, but smell kept leaking out, so now it is near the intake
so that all air in room contains ozone. No harm if ozone concentrations are kept
to a safe level. If you get a strong smell of "sea breeze" then it is too high. If you
want to keep your home smell free, then I guess placing it near the front door
would be a good idea. If your handy, give some serious thought to building your
own. It's very simple technology and cheap to build.
Mota - YES thank you very much. My coworker
was with me when I picked them
up and he too was very interested. Fig widow, Mmmmmm.
Lady J - Dad is just another nameless
clone in my garden that I got from my dad.
After I got the feedback from those nugs, I tracked down that clone and it's
source said it came from UBC. I now call that clone UBC, haha. Did you get one?
Hope so. There are many good ones in that assortment that went your way.
Eric- it's going to take far more than
20 plants to reserect that strain. As it took
many generations and years to diminish the strain, it will take much time and
energy to bring it back. But hey, good luck.
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