In time this page will be cleaned up but in the meantime I thought I
would list several posts that I have found around the net. I'll also
be revising the plans to make an ozone generator and leave that here as
General Posts on Ozone
Introduction to Ozone - an in depth look at ozone
Go straight to ozone generator construction
Time 03:16, 11 Apr 1998
How does ozone work?
While ozone is very powerful, it has
a very short life cycle. When it comes in contact
with odours, bacteria, viruses, etc... the extra atom of oxygen destroys them
completely by oxidation. In doing so, the extra atom of oxygen is destroyed and
there is nothing left including odours, bacteria, etc... except for plain stable oxygen.
How is ozone produced?
There are two types of ozone production.
The first one would be corona discharge
which essentially is creating lightning and the second is ultra violet flourescent tubes.
Both forms are effective and personal preference and room size,
Are the only deciding factors how long does ozone last?
Ozone lasts at the very most thirty minutes.
When there are a lot of pollutants in the
air ozone, it will degrade at a very rapid rate and in some cases almost immediately.
Time 03:13, 11 Apr 1998
What is ozone?
Ozone is sometimes called the "activated oxygen".
It contains three atoms of oxygen rather
than the two atoms we normally breathe.
Ozone is the second most powerful sterilant in the world and its function is to destroy
bacteria, viruses, and odours. Ozone occurs quite readily in nature, most often as a
result of lightning strikes that occur during thunderstorms. In fact that fresh smell after
a thunderstorm is actually the smell of ozone. Ozone is also created by waterfalls.
However, we are probably most familiar with ozone from reading about the "ozone
layer" that circles the planet above the earths atmosphere. Here the ozone is created
by ultra-violet rays from the sun and subsequently helps to protect from the damaging
Here is the lowdown on ozone
Posted by Distant on December 07, 1998 at 10:04:56
Ozone generators are the most effective odor control devices available.
Odor is caused by airborne pathogens which float freely and come in contact
with our nasal passages. When generated ozone, or 0³ comes in contact
with these pathogens one of the oxygen atoms detaches from the ozone molecule,
attaching itself to the odor-causing pollutant. This process, in essence,
inactivates the odor causing particles in the air, leaving clean, fresh
smelling air. Growers report that a good ozone generator will completely
eliminate airborne odors from the most pungent crops, but will not affect
the dried boquet of the flowers.There has been some debate over the safety
of ozone and humans, however The EPA, USDA and OSHA have approved the use
of ozone at concentrations of 0.1 Parts Per Million, for an exposure period
of eight hours, without any side effects. Most home ozone generators produce
than .05 PPM, and exposure time is minimal. With this in mind, ozone generation is a safe and effective method of odor control.
How to use Ozone
While some growers place ozone generators outside the growing area in fear that ozone may damage plants, most choose to destroy the odor at the source. In contrast to popular belief, ozone actually benefits the overall health of the plant, and the human, by removing pollutants such as bacteria, fugus and mold from the air. Another benefit to marijuana is the creation of CO² (along with water and oxygen), when ozone comes into contact with formaldahyde (HCHO) Because ozone generation is a very potent method of odor removal, constant treatment is not necessary; Ozone generators are run off a timer, with a typical generation of 10 minutes on, every two hours.
Built an Ozone generater
Posted by Castanza on January 14, 1999 at 00:25:43
I just thought I'd let people know that I finally took the plunge and built an ozone generator according to Greenman's plans. THe smell was just getting to be too much, and though it was confied to the garage, I feared it would start seeping out.
I had to spend $50 at an electronics store for the 7000 volt transformer, but everything else was just a few bucks more. Came home, spent 1/2 an hour putting it together, turned it on, and instant ozone. Came back 1/2 hour later and there wasn't a whiff of smell anywhere to be found.
I'm posting this because anyone out there who might be intimidated by this project should put their worries aside and go for it. I put it off too long thinking it had to be more complicated than I expected. Better to kill the smell than go to hell.
THanks to this forum for spreading the info so well.
Time 22:09, 13 Apr 1998
From Vic High
Anon, here's that piece on building an ozone generator.
green man's plans for an ozone generator.
Several people have expresed an interest
in the plans for a home made ozone
generator that I posted a while back. This is a very simple set up that
anyone can put together in five minutes after getting the parts. It works
as well as the expensive units costing $600 or more but it costs only about
$20 or so. The ones I made cost nothing it just depends on how good you are
at scrounging. A good source for the transformer is a shop that repairs or
installs neon signs. You can usually pick up a used one for next to zip. If
you go past their dumpster you might see one for free. Keta says All
Electronics has them for $20-htttp://www.allcorp.com
Keta apparently put together one and he reports good results. They work
great for me.
Here are the plans:
First you need a neon sign or similar
transformer at about 6000v. You need
a small glass jar and a larger jar that will hold the smaller one.The
larger jar can be glass or plastic, I have successfully used a plastic cup
for the larger jar but the smaller one should be glass.
Lastly you need a small amount of aluminum foil and you may need a few
short pieces of wire. The transformer can be as small as 3000v but the more
the better up to a point. I use 7000v and that is plenty but you can use up
Put a small piece of aluminum foil (about
2" sq.) inside the small jar at
the bottom. Cover the outside bottom of the small jar with foil so that it
covers the same area as the foil inside. You can cover the whole inside and
outside of the jar, that may work better but just make sure the inner and
outer foil layers do not touch or come too close. Put the smaller jar
inside the larger one. Connect one high voltage lead to the foil inside and
the other to the foil outside. The larger jar just insulates the whole
thing. I would put the whole set up on a piece of wood or other insulator.
Try not to cross the wires. The bare part of the wire must touch the foil.
If the insulation on the wire makes it difficult or if the wires are too
short, you may use some other wire to extend them. Be sure to keep the
wires as short as possible you don't want to touch them they will give you
a jolt. Turn it on, you'll hear acrackling noise and if its dark you'll
see a blue glow. If theres a short you may see an arc, just turn it off and
separate the conductors so that they don't short out. The ozone will come
out the top so don't plug it up. Ozone is a very powerful deodorizor it
also tends to kill mold and bacteria but will not harm your plants. I try
not to breath a lot of it though its not supposed to be dangerous in small
amounts. I run it at the beginning of the dark period with a timer. I find
2 hours per day is enough but that will depend on your odor problem.
That's it, have fun. I would be pleased
to hear peoples experiences with
Time 22:25, 13 Apr 1998
From Vic High
I think I would set up the ozone generator
a little differently.First, I would scrap the
glass jar thing and use a small piece of glass with equal sizes of wire mesh mounted
on both sides (these are called glass plates).My store-bought one mounted the wire mesh
onto the glass with clear silicone caulking.I would mount the whole deal inside a
wooden box (for safety reasons) with a top and two sides.I would mount a small
computer type fan one one of the open sides to blow the ozone out. Finally, I would
install some sort of dimmer switch to regulate the ozone output.
The greater the voltage and the greater
the wire mesh surface area, the greater the
On a safety note, according to WCB, if
you can smell the ozone - it's set too high
and could be dangerous to you and the plants.
Greenman's follow up via email:
I'm writing about your comments that you put at the end. Your idea of
glueing the screen to each side of a glass plate sounds good.
Unfortunately this will reduce or stop the production of ozone. You see,
it's neccesary to have an air space between the electrodes. That's where
the oz. is produced. The glass jar provides some insulation but you must
have an air gap between the conductor and the glass for it to work.
There is no reason you couldn't use metal screens for the plates. You
could glue them to glass sheets and have an air gap between the two
plates. You just couldn't glue them to the same plate. As long as you
maintained the gap, it wouldn't arc over and it would make oz. I guess
you could use a plastic grid or glue plastic spacers to the plates to
make sure of the spacing. Just be sure it's open to the outside air so
the oz can circulate.
The safety of oz is debateable but it seems to be OK in small amounts. I
used it only during the dark cycle when I wasn't in there.
Vic High follow up.
thanks greenman for making this more clear. In my mind, the idea of
the silicone was to create the space but wasn't very clear about this.
Electricity arcing through the air is what creates ozone.
Yo HippyK, just finished the ozone gen., wow!
Posted by Uncle Ben Dejo on November 03, 1998 at 18:23:00 PT:
Yep, this thing's the cat's meow. Just fired the gen. up and it
sure is great. Gives off a bluish-purple
hue, a little bit of a buzz (anyone know why the buzz?) and a really nice, fresh odor like you're at a
waterfall. Very nice suttle smell of ozone - I plan to put it on a timer.
I worked with a free, used 7500V neon transformer that a sign
vendor gave me, got some never used
scrap alum. window screen, an 8' 18/3 cord with a male plug, some wood screws, salvaged a cheap
3 1/2" X 5" piece of glass from a cheapo photo frame, and got after it. Total cost, about $6.
Mounted the transformer using its base mounts to a 4" X 17" X
3/4" plywood board, attached the
18/3 to the primary side of the transformer including the ground wire for safety.
Cut two screens about 1/2" smaller than the outside dimensions
of the glass. I then folded one corner
over, punched a hole with an ice pick through the corner and threaded some wire through the hole
while twisting it around itself so it would be easy to solder. I soldered the wire leads to the corner of
the precut screens using a little flux for prepping, a heavy duty solder iron, and regular electronic
solder. After the wires were affixed to the screens, I mounted the screen patches to the plate glass,
one on each side, using a hot glue gun with about one drop of hot glue at each corner of the screen.
The glue bleeds thru the screen and holds real well. Mounted the plate glass with screens attached in
a groove which I previously cut into the plywood. The glass was mounted adjacent to the
transformer's secondary side. I connected the screen's wire leads to the secondary side of the
transformer and fired it up.
Worked great the first time.
Re: Just 1 Question though... :)
Posted by HippyK on November 04, 1998 at 09:28:41 PT:
In Reply to: Yo HippyK, just finished the ozone gen., wow! posted by
Uncle Ben Dejo on November
03, 1998 at 18:23:00 PT:
If timer is needed because it puts out too much...
Why not use a lower volt transformer???
Then no need for a timer!...Right???
Or am I just stoned? :)
Posted by Vic High on November 04, 1998 at 12:32:23 PT:
In Reply to: Re: Just 1 Question though... :) posted by HippyK on November 04, 1998 at 09:28:41 PT:
Congrats Uncle Ben. I hope you don't mind if I add your notes
to my webpage. I like the gluegun
idea, sounds much better than my silicone idea. I'm also using one of those 7500v transformers as
As for increasing and decreasing output, surface area of the wire
mesh also plays a role. My
comercial model comes with different size plates and so you can adjust output by changing the nuber
and size of the plates. It also has a "volume" control which I suspect adjusts the voltage output.
Buzz comes from the thousands of tiny lightning strikes. That is what that glow is as well.
BTW my homemade model kicks the comercial model big time.
Ozone Gen. construction revisited - Conclusions!!!
Posted by Uncle Ben Dejo on November 05, 1998 at 21:31:07 PT:
May post this to other rooms, so please bear with me, I feel this is important and want to share it.
I posted my ozone generator construction method the other day
using a 7500V neon transformer,
received a "congrats" from Vic High with a comment regarding the need for air surrounding (or in
between) the aluminum screens. I'll call the screens "plates" for the sake of discussion. My original
construction was based on placing a plate on each side of a single thickness glass, with only the glass
separating the plates about 3/32". Decided to play games with this, and this is what I found.
Disconnected the original leads and got to work. Took two 4 X
5" pieces of single thickness glass,
and affixed a plate on each using a hot glue gun. With various thicknesses of spaces, I placed these
screens facing each other, being careful not to short or ground out any areas. No stray strands of
aluminum screen were evident. After using gaps between the plates ranging from about 3/32" to 3/8"
I was disappointed but glad I went thru this experiment.
No matter the gap between plates, all I got was hot spots at various
points along the plates resulting in
considerable heat produced within a very short period of time, melting of the glue, very little, if any
ozone production, and generally a failing system.
So.....went back to work after this exercise and piddled with
my original configuration to try to get
rid of the annoying buzz. Did it! Just added a few more drops along the perimeter and one drop in the
middle, its now very quiet, and produces alot of ozone. The plates were vibrating against the glass.
Yep, guess the single plate glass is just the right thickness, and it arcs just fine. With lights out, there
is a faint blueish-purple color, and lots of ozone.
Re: Ozone Gen. revisited: Yo Vic!
Posted by Uncle Ben Dejo on November 06, 1998 at 20:02:45 PT:
In Reply to: Re: Ozone Gen. construction revisited - Conclusions!!!
posted by Vic High on November
06, 1998 at 00:48:45 PT:
I can't really understand why two plates facing each other won't
work, but I got more of a yellow
fire than a nice suttle blueish-purple haze while using the two pieces of plates facing each other. Yep,
we don't need da fires!
Found out why a single plate is effective today!
Called Joe Blow the Electrician listed in the phone book, and asked about the insulated values of glass,
since glass is used as an insulator in commercial applications. Question was one of arcing if glass is
an insulator. As an example, take a look at the heavy glass insulators on utility poles, etc. Well, seems
that voltage levels are the key. Lower voltages can't bleed thru glass while high voltages such as the
7500V+ that we use can. So, this explains why this single plate of glass with a screen on each side is
so effective. It's just thin enough to keep the screens apart but thick enough to allow them to arc.
The thin glass I used is single strength and seems to be the key. It is not showing any hot spots,
remains at room temp. Of course, if it does show hot spots after some period of use, I will go back
to the drawing board.
BTW, do me a favor, and tell Greenman "Kip" says hello. I really
have alot of respect for that guy -
fine temperment and character.
Ozone Generator revisited - Part 3
Posted by Uncle Ben Dejo on January 02, 1999 at 19:52:45 PT:
When we last met, UBD had a problem with glue joints holding the
glass plate, well I solved the
problem and rebuilt the generator plates.
I had originally used a glue gun and a silicone type cement to
attach the "plates" aka aluminum
window screen on each side of the glass. After some use the glue would vibrate loose so I went
Stripped from the single plate glass the screens and remnants
of glue and scrubbed the glass clean
with some detergent. I then applied Etching Cream, available at hobby stores, to both sides of the
glass sheet in order to dull the sheen. This etching cream has an acid as its active ingredient which
after leaving it on for about 15 mins., completely frosts the surface. Originally I recognized that
glue had a hard time holding onto a glossy, virgin glass surface and that frosting of the glass would
After "roughing up" the glass with the cream and washing the surfaces
clean, I cut new pieces of
alum. screen careful to keep them about 1/4" or more from the glass perimeter to prevent arcing.
I then soldered wire leads to each corner of the alum. "plates" and mounted the plates to each
side of the plate glass using a drop of hot glue at each corner, and one in the middle. To cut down
on the buzzing, I further applied "Goop", a type of multi-purpose glue, to various points around
And? Works like a champ, very good output, and after extensive
use, not one glue joint has
failed. Again cost was about $6.00 for the glass and the wire cord, the rest was free.
Am able to quickly and easily break the generator down and store
in a box - the leads can be
disconnected from the secondary on the transformer, the glass plate is just lifted up and out of the
1/4" deep channel I cut in the 3/4" plywood mount, and can then be packed away in a box.
Remember folks, da smeller is da fella....
Posted by Cedar on November 06, 1998 at 15:40:55 PT:
In Reply to: Ozone Gen. Construction revisited - Conclusions!!! posted
by Uncle Ben Dejo on
November 05, 1998 at 18:24:03 PT:
Here are (3) sources for ionizers (AKA negative ion generators).
Two are "DIY" kits that are excellent
and easy to put
together w/ just a soldering iron. The last and larger one is a big mother than you can have custom
built by the vendor
for negative ion generation. Please keep in mind that these devices, although safe, should be treated
especially the larger units! I should also mention that these units are far more effective and a fraction
of the cost of
"commercial units". The prices on these kits range from $14.00 - $198.00
http://www.amazing1.com/voltage2.htm (this is the big mother)
Ozone Generators (Slight Return)
Posted by PosterBoy on November 16, 1998 at 07:50:59 PT:
Per some earlier threads, I followed the general directions and had a few mods to the last set of plans.
First, I secured a 15KV volt neon sign transformer ($35 used -
it's one big mother). Found the largest
spaghetti sauce jar (10" in diameter)I could get my paws on. Got some heavy mesh screen (1/4" grid)
at the local builders supply as well as some heavy-duty wire. Rolled a screen on the outside of the jar
(6" wide) and, with some difficulty, did the same on the inside of the jar (a large moth jar helps a lot).
Soldered a lead to each of the screens and wired them to the transformer. I then cut the bottom our
of one of those ubiquitous "handy pails" at the hardware store (left a 4" lip on it). I glued this to a
piece of plywood (lip-up) and then epoxied the jar in the center of cut bottom. I then got another pail,
took the handle off and drilled 20 or so evenly spaced ½" holes all around what would be consider 2"
below the bottom lip. The then cut a hole in the bottom of this bucket and mounted a small 120v fan
on top to blow air though the unit. I then placed this bucket upsidedown over the jar and other cut
bottom, running the wires out of one of the ½" holes. After securing the top bucket in place and
bolting down the transformer, I connected the fan and transformer to the same 120v switch and
plugged it in. It worked great! That 15KV transformer puts out a hell of a lot of ozone (hence the
need for a heavy screen), and the plastic buckets insulate everything, w/ the added bonus of reducing
noise a bit. I run this sucker on a timer 6x/day at 10 minute intervals and all I can smell is rain-fresh
Time 19:38, 14 Apr 1998
From chance (email@example.com)
I don't have a garden but I do have an
ozone generator that I like real well.Ozone at
low levels is not poisonous....this misconception is from bad press and bad
science.It has been used for many things for 100 years.www.oxytherapy.com has
a lot of research.It is mothernature's way of cleaning our environment.Mine turned
a musty/moldy smelling basement into a room that smells like fresh outdoor air....I
have mold allergies and hated the smell.It doesn't just mask outdoor...it destroys
what cause it...ie the mold in this case.A good unit also generates negative ions as
part of the ozone generating process....nearly as much as an ion generator.Feel free
to write...I have more info.
Posted by Vic High on May 10, 1998 at 14:13:31
I've been using an ozone generator for quite a while now. Before i got it I heard all the negative stuff about how dangerous they where from the grow shops that only had ionizers. Problem was that many stinky worksites have them such as meatprocessors. I approached WCB and asked them what the deal was with them and their reply was that they were safe as long as they weren't overdone. Ozone is a strong oxidizer that can destroy lung cells. WCB has adopted safe ozone levels for the workplace but then went on to say that basically if you can smell the distinctive sea breeze then you are damaging your lungs.
Now for my observations: First, I use one with an output adjustment and therefore don't use a timer and can't give advice here. Second, mine has always been in my flower room with the plants. It definately hasn't affected the odour or flavour of my finished product. I do have trouble getting a good smell of the buds in the grow room though.
One negative observation: blueberry plants that are
too close to the ozone output are prone to going slightly hermie. I don't
seem to get unwanted seeds from these but the hermied buds lose their
blueberry smell and just stink. They also don't get as big but strangely weigh the same. ????
I was just reading the June high times issue and Ed R also suggests placing the generator in the same room as the plants.
Personally I would place the ozone generator near
the room's intake. This way any air leaking from the grow room is deoderized.
Hope this helps. Vic
osted by crane on September 17, 1998 at 13:12:10
In Reply to Re: Little more please, and cost posted by webfish179.
To elaborate on funks post, there are two different types
of ozone generators commonly available which
correspond to two different ways ozone is produced in nature. Lightning creates ozone (the exact mechanism is a
mystery to me, but funks description sounds logical) and one type of ozone generator uses this model, on a much
smaller scale of course. It forces electricty through the air, something like mini lightning, and that gives you your
ozone. This is what funk has. The other place we're familliar with ozone is the ozone layer, produced by UV light
from the sun. Many machines (the one you're looking at) use this model to produce ozone. They're basically a
fluorescent UV tube (possibly the type found in a tanning bed?) in a reflective sleeve with a small fan at one end.
I believe the "lightning" type (technically called corona
discharge) produce more ozone and use more electricity
than their UV cousins. The UV based machines use very little electricity I think, good news for those who've
already maxed out their hyrdo bill.
The price really depends on how much ozone the thing produces,
measured in mg per hour. Pacific northwest
(who seem to know what they're doing) recomend 100mg per hour per light. Most base model 100mg/hr (for one
light) UV based units I see around here are 200-300 canadian dollars, which makes that home made corona
discharge unit sounds pretty attractive ;-)
Where to put it? I would try to put it if not in, at least
near the exhaust. I think right in the exhaust might be too
close to the ouside (depends on the distance between the exhaust intake in your room and it's outlet). If the
exhaust duct is long enough that air takes 30 seconds or more to reach unfriendly noses, then you're probably
fine... if it's shorter you'll want to place to just get it close to the exhaust.
I wouldn't personally vent ozone into my home, but it is
suposed to only last for about 30 seconds in average air
(dirtier air will use it up faster) so probably it's safe. Ozone basicly rusts most everything it touches. Molecules in
the air that smell like pot, bacteria, your furniture and worst of all your lungs if you inhale it. If you can smell it
(like funk says, you'll know) you're oxidizing your inards and should get away / turn it off etc.
Good luck webby, hope this helps...
sted by loop_hole on September 17, 1998 at 13:41:13
In Reply to Re: Little more please, and cost posted by webfish179.
you can easily make one of the uv types.
go to a industrial lighting supply shop and buy a germicidal
lamp. a 3 foot s35t6z 38 watt unit puts out 1 gram/hour and
runs off a standard single tube flo ballast. They also come in smaller units like the s15t6z 14 watt that puts out .1
gram/hour. Stick it in a 4" pvc pipe and put that in line with your exhaust. works great. Bulb is about $30 can.
ballast about $15 for the big one and $30 for the small.
and don't look at the light, not so good for your eyes.
Re: UVONAIR 3000???
Posted by Vic high on June 05, 1999 at 07:42:49
In Reply to UVONAIR 3000??? posted by BUDDY.
For future referance, it's easy to build your own. more on this later.
but first, the safest place to place the ozone is
in your exhaust. In a recent setup I built a wooden box, sealed all
joints and attatched a 10" dayton to the exhaust end. [Mine has a .8-1 amp motor, shop around, Dayton is very
inconsistant with their motors and I have another with a .35amp motor]. If you are using the 10" dayton then you
want your exhaust as short as possible between teh fan and the outside. You also want the ducting as close to 10"
as you can, mine is 10". A friend is using an ellicent fan ind it seems much better with more balls but still quite
quiet. In this box near the exhaust I mounted a home built ozone generator.
In the past I used the style mentioned on my webpage
using a neon sign ballast. I found it difficult to keep the
ozone production up, it seems to die off over time. And yes I clean the plates often but even new plates seem to
have less output. I think the improper use of teh ballasts may be wearing them out but am not sure.
So the latest is to use a high output ozone flo tube.
These are often used in water treatment and air ducts. A three
foot tube will clean the air from a 10 light show they say. They are dead silent. I built the box large enough to hold
the 3 footer but decided that was overkill and went with the 15" instead. Exhaust still smells of ozone but not as
bad. I mounted the ballast to the outside of the box to protect it from ozone damage. The ballast, end caps and flo
tubes cost about $110 for teh 36" and under $100 for the 15" (canuck buck). These are the same as the more expensive Uvonair I
believe, just without the safety and fancy packaging.
36" - this baby can handle a 10 light show they say
ballast = Robertson IS36 PUV for (1) G36T6 LP
flo tube = Ushio G36T6VH/CB
This smaller one could easily handle a 2-3 light show.
ballast = Robertson SSGPH287RC
flo tube = USHIO GPH10T5VH/CB
Go to a commercial lighting store for these. They are often used for water purification. These lights produce a radiation that is harmful to skin and eyes. Use care and respect when working with them. Place out of site and smell.
I also mounted two HID ballasts in the box near the intake end to draw
their heat from the room. Not sure how they will survive the ozone but
figured it would be interesting to find out. They are upwind, so hopefully
this helps protect them. The exhaust box also draws from a couple of aircooled
May 27, 1999
Purchase high output ozone tubes. They are made for sterilizing water.
Small one - tube: USHIO GPH10T5VH/CB
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